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Cutting cast iron plumbling?

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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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Cutting cast iron plumbling?

I need to replace a section of cast iron sewer line. I am planning to cut the bad cast iron pipe lose and use one of those rubber unions to join pvc to the good. My question is will I be able to get a clean cut on the cast pipe with my die grinder? Will a reciprocal saw give me a clean cut and if so do I need a special blade? I prefer not to have to rent a tool if I don't have to.
 

Last edited by 70blue; Oct 5, 2007 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 03:38 PM
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a reciprocal saw will work fine. use a fine tooth blade. when you buy the fernco fitting, make sure it is for joining PVC to cast.
there are different types of fernco fittings, so you have to make sure you get the rite one, or it will leak.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 04:03 PM
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I usually just grind a groove around the pipe (if you can get all the way around it), then stick a chisel in the gro0ve an tap. Tap it in two or thee places ang it will come apart neatly. Doesn't need to be a real deep groove. Or saw it as TJC says if that's easier....
 
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 07:05 PM
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I'd use a recip saw over a die grinder
 
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Old Oct 5, 2007 | 07:59 PM
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Maybe borrow a plumber's Ridgid pipe cutter tool (snapper)

It (the chain with cutter wheels) wraps around the pipe and then you snap it.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 12:28 AM
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The chain works the best. You can use a sawzall, just get the 12" blade for cast iron. It does not have teeth, has chunks of caribe or whatever on the blade to act like teeth.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 12:34 AM
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Wonder what one of those chains would set me back? I am on a very low budget. Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.
 

Last edited by 70blue; Oct 6, 2007 at 12:43 AM.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 12:46 AM
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I am sure you could rent the chain type cutter from a equipment rental store. It is not something I would keep around in my tool box. (expensive - single task item).
If you are patient go for the reciprocating saw with a good/new blade.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 05:23 AM
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Those recip. blades are not cheap, and if you snap one in the middle of the job?
HD should have the cast snapper to rent. Maybe, $10.00 for a half day.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 06:47 AM
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Agree with last post....it's almost a given you will not get through the job with just one recip blade, & they are expensive. By the way, I prefer Lennox brand blades, especially for plumbing...they seem to outlast the other brands.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 06:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 70blue
Wonder what one of those chains would set me back? I am on a very low budget. Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.
Use a hack saw with a new blade, plenty of cutting oil and slow strokes. It will walk right through the pipe. Do it right and you will be surprised at how easy it is.
Most of the hacksaw's tiresome reputation comes from not using it in the right way.
Plenty of cutting oil, not WD40, but more like 3-in-1. Don't put a lot of down pressure on the blade, but more like let the teeth of the new blade dig in.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Use a hack saw with a new blade, plenty of cutting oil and slow strokes. It will walk right through the pipe. Do it right and you will be surprised at how easy it is.
Most of the hacksaw's tiresome reputation comes from not using it in the right way.
Plenty of cutting oil, not WD40, but more like 3-in-1. Don't put a lot of down pressure on the blade, but more like let the teeth of the new blade dig in.
Dan, I don't think he has the clearence to use a hack saw. Plus it has to be at the very least a 4 1/2 in pipe.

ps. absolutly right on the proper use of a h/s.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 07:17 AM
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Oops, I missed the part about the SEWER line.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Oops, I missed the part about the SEWER line.
What is it, a little after 05:00 there? It's ok to have that second cup of coffee.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 07:46 AM
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It does appear to be around five inches. Luckily I have enough clearance to get just about any tool I want in there. I just have to make sure its well supported before the cut because it is vertical up to a point then goes horizontal overhead for two feet. Cutting about a three foot section off. I bet that would feel good coming down on my head. I could cut the horizontal run and save a pvc elbow but I am gonna cut where it is easiest for me to work with clearance wise. Only have one good arm at the moment.

As far as those recip. blades snapping. It is amazing how a new one can snap in two seconds when you have to get something fixed in a cramped area. When you are using them for bs like cutting stuff down to fit your truck to haul off for scrap you can wear the paint clear of and use them a long time after.
 

Last edited by 70blue; Oct 6, 2007 at 08:07 AM.
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