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Thanks Dave
I got lucky the cheap meter prevailed all the plugs showed between .5 to .9 I will not get to finish the job until tuesday or wed. so hopefully I can report then that everything is working right.
well I got it put back together I had another detour the nut on the fuel line that goes from the filter to the IP was stripped so I had to make up a new fuel line. My glow relay is still not cycling right. all the glowplugs checked out ok I replaced the glowplug harness and I replaced the the solenoid on the glowplug relay. I did have a bad conection where the two hot wires come off the fuse box to the glowplug relay the wires got very hot . I respliced the wires together and it fixed that problem. maybe I got another bad relay. I turn the key on the wait to start light comes on for about 8 to 10 seconds then goes off the relay will not cycle if I start the truck it goes off right away if I wait the glowplugs will continue to heat for about another 10 seconds give or take. if I disconect just 1 glowplug the relay will cycle. I dont know what else to do!
The controler is temperature sensitive both the external and internal temps. The colder the outside tmep the longer it should stay on. It doesn't run a certain amount of time just the internal temp of the cylinders is what controls it. Once the temp of the cylinder is correct then the controler shuts off the power. If you ran the engine for a few minutes then the controler will not turn on until the internal temp has gone down.
I read all these and No one seeme to say HOW the TIMER Works .
Is there a Time delay relay with R and C ?
OR does it depend on the Parallel resistance of the Glow Plugs that there is a Bi metalic strip that heats up?
OR
What is it ?
before I take the whole thing off\ and replace the wjole thing with a Starter Solenoid and a PUSH BUTTON and count to 10 YEA???
Thanks
paul Tie
Paul, it is a bimetal switch from 1983-1986, 1987 and up uses a solid state feed back system, but both are suposed to "time" the glow plugs based on resistance that increaces as the glow plugs heat up. The older one does not work very well, and is very crude, I cut one open once, and it is a POS in a stick.
Normally I only press the switch for seven seconds, although in ottawa, it might get a little colder than the south coast of BC, so 10 seconds is safe on a cold start. For a warn start, you will find that you really don't need it if the engine is even luke warm.
No need to take the relay out you have in there now.
Remove the white wire from it's terminal.
Attach a wire to that terminal and run it inside the cab.
Mount a momentary switch at a convenient location and attach the wire from the relay to one terminal.
Attach a wire to the other terminal of the momentary switch and run it to a good electrical ground.
Installation is complete.
To operate, turn the key to ON.
Push the switch for 10 seconds.
Start the engine.
As an after thought, there is a connector near the oil dip stick where the engine harness plugs into the chassis harness.
On one end of the connector there are two large guage wires (glow plug circuit power supply wires), yellow I think is the color.
Look at the connector very close for signs of overheating.
Unplug it and check for corrosion inside the connection.
Corrosion in that connection will drop the voltage to the glow plug relay/controller and make the glow plug cycle do funny things.
Many thanks That is exactly what I wanted to know as I did not fancy all that REACHING OVER the dirty engine and not knowing what I al looking for .
many thanks
but the way Original replaced the OLD DUAL MASS 10inch clutch flywheel with a LUK single flywheel and I have an extra one which I can sell for say 600$ Canadisn + Shipping this would include the Flywheel + 12in PPlate and disc .
just in case you know oe some one who need it .
Bigredtruckmi I think where Im getting hung up is not the time that the glow plugs heat. ever since I had this truck after I start it the glow plug relay would cycle on and off for a sort time and now it will not do this. unless I disconect 1 glow plug it does not matter which 1.
Thank you for your service to our country
Thanks Dave I may end up going that rout but I would like to get it right if I can.
The two big yellow wires did get very hot but it was not at the relay it was where the harnnes plugs in by the fusebox just over the drivers side wheel well it actually melted the plug I removed those two wires from the plug and spliced them back together so they are now separet from the plug heat problem gone. there is however signs of heat on the side of the relay that goes to the GP that big S shap piece of metal that goes from the solenoid to the glow plug wires.
I cleaned up the metal strip and it made no differance. I think Im going to give it a rest for a while then in the next month or two I will replays the whole relay.
Thanks to all for there input. when I finally replace the relay I will post my resaults.
hey guys need some info...i have a 7.3 replaced the g.p's and the controller..the start
lite comes on ..about 5 to 8 seconds then it starts clicking..is this normal?...ty
Your info was right on and I can now start my 7.3 OK bUt many of the dash lights do funny things with the if key on and off and I wondered if by passing the timere and going to the yellow wire which is what I did will do some othe harm