Check your #1 fuse (in the corner above the flasher). I had almost the same problem with a trailer connecter (when I turned the 4ways on they'd flash a couple of times and stop. Blew #1 fuse every time. Still haven't fixed the problem, just stopped turning on the 4ways.

Good Luck.


Dave

 

Okay, I jumpered my BL switch, still no brakelights. I got a little postal and smacked my steering wheel a few times and BAM no tyrn signals!!! does this point to a weakness there-in? should I tear into the column at this point?
Brent

 

I still need help.... well so does my truck and I am sure at least it can be fixed!
Brent

 

Did you check the fuse in the power distribution box under the hood? My OM for a 95 says there is a 50amp. fuse that backs-up fuse box fuses 5,9,&13. 13 on mine being stop lights, etc.

 

Have not looked under the hood for fuses... didn't think my 90 had any but will look in a few minutes when the wife gets home...
Brent

 

I looked under the hood for a fuse block under the hood but did not see one so I reckon it is back under the dash we go!
Brent

 

I searched the Advance Auto Parts site and found that turn signal switches go fro 50-115 for my tilt wheel... Not knowing if this is even the problem... I am considering getting to it and trying to diagnose it as good or bad. Are there any folks who have repaired a switch, it looks like a simple device on the website pic. What do I need to tear down to access it? steering wheel obviously... than what?
Brent

 

once you take the horn cover off .... you will find a big nut holding the steering wheel on . Its like a 7/8 or so . * if you dont have a puller * Loosen it halfway .... and then grab the steering wheel and pull up like crazy and wiggle side to side real hard ( on some they are on so tight you swear your gonna break the wheel ) and it will pop loose . Mark it berore you get it all the way off , so you know what position to put it back .... you dont want the wheel pointing right or left when you are going straight ya know .

Where the 4 way flasher button is ... that has a phillip screw in the center . Remove it . Grab the turn sig lever and unscrew it as well .

Now you will figure the rest out . There are only 3 screws holding in the turn sig assy . Turn the signals on momentarily to access 2 screws .

As for the wiring .... the connector .... its down in the column a bit . You will probly get to it under the dash . I cant remember if ford was nice enough to leave room to remove the connector through the column nice and easy .... or if you must remove the 3 torx screws holding the tilt part together ( total PITA )maybe someone whos done one recently can remember .

I know one time I was in a hurry , I just snipped all the wires and butt connected them back with the new one .

 

He's got a injured arm. Do everything he said except loosen the nut till it's flush, then give it a whack with a hammer. That usually pops it off. The book expressly tell you not to hit you column with a hammer, but it works, just don't kill it. That being said I don't think you should do it yet. I guess maybe money is tight since your out of work. I really think you should spent 15 bucks and buy a Haynes manual. If the plug is under the dash you can do all your testing there. In my experience turn signals don't just break. They usually get sloppy and wiggle around sometimes stop clicking. Maybe someone else will correct me. I'm not a mechanic, but I have been working on my and my friends and families cars for 30 years. I think that switch would have given you some warning it was wearing out. If you haven't been driving it and your wife has maybe it was getting loose for a while. Pardon me if I'm being forward, but I'd hate to see you go through all the trouble of taking the wheel off if your not sure. If you weren't laid up it wouldn't be a big deal. These books have saved me thousands of dollars

 

I have the Haynes manual already... Yes I am dealing with a completely disabled left arm (I am SEVERLY left handed). I am out of work due to this injury. So yes money is VERY tight. I may be able to handle getting the wheel off if needed. The rest sounds easy enough. Funny thing is that the signals started working again today with NO REPAIR having been performed! They quit one time in the springtime but I blamed it on my less than perfect key switch possibly not having returned to run following a startup. They started working that same afternoon...
Brent

 

That's more info we didn't have. The turn signals only work with the key on, so if your having key problems also, then it might pay to pop the wheel. If you lived close I would stop over and help. What state are you in.? I'll look at the wiring diagram in the morning and see how the key is tied in.

 

I am pretty sure the key switch is not the culprit at this time. It just needs turned back a little after cranking. It has never stuck in cranking mode nor caused Any electrical problems. It seems I just thought it was a problem with the turn signals back in the spring. I am in the Florida Panhandle West... As long as momma just has to drive during daylight I have her using the running lights to illuminate the tail lights.
Brent

 

is there a way to follow the wires and check for a short?

 

just a real quick thought, check your bulbs, maybe they got a spike and blew the "high" circuit, I mean if you have tail lights, and turn lights and hazard lights those all run on the "low" circuit. If you haven't already check the bulbs, might sound to easy but it does happen sometimes.

Plus it's an easier check then pulling your wheel and chasing wires.

 

he said they started working again yesterday. That rules out the bulbs.