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I have a 2000 F150, 4x4 Lariat, auto and 5.4. Since I bought this used and have no owners manual, I am thinking that if I intend to pull a 16ft camping trailer, I should lock out the overdrive as a routine practice. Am I right?
Also, when decending long grades, is it OK to put it back into overdrive, or should it be left out?
If the transmission doesn't "search", its fine to leave it in overdrive for fuel economy. If it is constantly shifting, that is extreme wear on the transmission and you should use the overdrive lock-out to prevent the wear and tear.
What the previous poster said is good. Also, when it comes to descending long grades, if the truck isn't running away, you're fine to be in OD. If it IS accelerating down the long grade with your foot off the accelerator, then you should take it out of OD, maybe even downshift to 2nd to keep your speed down. Don't just think you can coast up to 70-75 mph and think you'll deal with the speed at the bottom. It's easy to overheat brakes or get a trailer to fishtail in that scenario. Keeping your speed down all the way down the grade is the best way to maintain safety and control. If you do have to use your brakes, make sure you don't ride them down the hill, but rather apply and release them in short intervals along the way.
Actually if you tend to leave it in OD while towing, I would invest in a transmission temperature gauge. The higher gear will make higher temperatures and could cook things over time if the load is too much. Three items I have seen the manufacturers consider for towing is overall weight, tongue weight and sail area( square footage of the trailers front). Sail area and overall weight are key to how hard your trailer will work the truck. Tongue weight will effect handling and can be corrected with hitch adjustments. Not towing in OD diesn't work the transmission as hard and generates less heat. Installing an extra transmission oil cooler in series with the existing one will help also. Go with a transmission oil temperature gauge and extra cooler, get used to where it runs when not towing, when towing not in OD and towing in OD then you will know if you have an issue.
Tow in the tallest gear that the torque converter will stay locked. An unlocked torque converter is the major heat generator in a transmission.
Go downhill in the same or lower gear that it took to go uphill. Don't allow the speed to get to a point where you have to use excessive braking to slow the rig.
Actually if you tend to leave it in OD while towing, I would invest in a transmission temperature gauge. The higher gear will make higher temperatures and could cook things over time if the load is too much. Three items I have seen the manufacturers consider for towing is overall weight, tongue weight and sail area( square footage of the trailers front). Sail area and overall weight are key to how hard your trailer will work the truck. Tongue weight will effect handling and can be corrected with hitch adjustments. Not towing in OD diesn't work the transmission as hard and generates less heat. Installing an extra transmission oil cooler in series with the existing one will help also. Go with a transmission oil temperature gauge and extra cooler, get used to where it runs when not towing, when towing not in OD and towing in OD then you will know if you have an issue.
In my experiance with my transmission temp guage (4R100 trans), the opposite is what happens. Temps are lower while towing in OD than if you kick it out of OD. Also, when driving around town with OD off, temps are higher than when I leave it alone. I think on this transmission (4R100) you would be better following the instructions that if the trans is not 'searching' for gears (kicking out of OD frequently) your best bet is to leave it in OD.
I agree with above, purchase & install a second trans cooler and guage (I have both on mine). My towing temps in 95+ weather (towing 5500lbs on my 2002 F150 Harley Truck) have never gotten over 190 degrees.
Thanks for the great advice, guys! Will look into getting that extra cooler and gauge. Believe I will let it run in OD as long as it does not search. It is a small 16 ft trailer and I do not push my truck at any time. Looking forward to deer/elk hunting coming up. Jim
i have a 2005 lariat with tow package and the 5.4. i tow a 32 foot 9000 lb jayco trailer. that is the max my truck is rated for. i am going cross country this winter. the tongue weight with weight distribution bars is 1000 lbs and i am at times over that.
do i have any worries? does it hurt the truck to tow the max? so far it tows very well as far as power goes. i get about 8.5 mpg at 62 mph. i was considering the 2008 diesel but am having a hard time justifying the extra cost.
Define "hurt the truck". Any tool you use near, at, or over its limits will wear out quicker and increase the chances of a catastrophic failure. With tow limits, there is a fair amount of safety factor built in. As you go over that recommended limit, you'll increase those chances greatly, as well as increase the chance of a loss-of-control situation.
think i will buy an extended warranty for the powertrain just in case.
thanks-jeff
Now, that I wouldn't do. Those warranties are big time money-makers for the providers. You're better off saving and/or investing what you would spend on that warranty and then using that on repairs if and when they are necessary. Far cheaper in the long run.
i have a 2005 lariat with tow package and the 5.4. i tow a 32 foot 9000 lb jayco trailer. that is the max my truck is rated for. i am going cross country this winter. the tongue weight with weight distribution bars is 1000 lbs and i am at times over that.
do i have any worries? does it hurt the truck to tow the max? so far it tows very well as far as power goes. i get about 8.5 mpg at 62 mph. i was considering the 2008 diesel but am having a hard time justifying the extra cost.
i change the fluids per the owners manual.
Sounds like you need a heavier hitch, not nessesarily a heavier truck (although that would be nice...). Look at upgrading to a class V hitch. With weight distribution, it'll be much stronger than the current class III hitch which is at its rated max.
That Jayco will run you OVERWEIGHT if it's rated at 9000 and so is your truck. Once you add the necessary gear (and people) in the vehicle AND the stuff in the trailer, the added weight is significant!!
FYI, you can download a copy of your owner's manual from ford.com
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