Casting #'s
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 4
From: West Union, OH USA
Casting #'s
the 352 is on most truck blocks it doesnt mean anything, you just know that its a FE now. i used to have the stuff to decode that. i got it out of a Ford and Mustang magazine i'll try to find it
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 962
Likes: 2
From: Collierville, TN
Casting #'s
The D2TE head is a standard 360/390 truck head, and may well be original to your engine. The C7AE head may be original, or it could be a replacement. I don't have my reference materials handy, so I can't give you specs, but I seem to recall that C7AE heads are pretty common and were used on a lot of FE motors.
Those aren't "casting numbers", by the way; they are design revision codes. The D refers to the decade of the 1970s (C=1960s), and the "D2" means it was a part design from 1972 (C7=1967). The T means truck, and the E means it's an engine part. Thus, D2TE is a 1972 design of a truck engine part. Similarly, C7AE means a 1967 design auto engine part.
A full part number includes the four characters above, plus generally a four digit part number, followed by a revision code. For example, C8AE-xxxx-B would be a 1968 design auto engine part #xxxx, revision B.
Those aren't "casting numbers", by the way; they are design revision codes. The D refers to the decade of the 1970s (C=1960s), and the "D2" means it was a part design from 1972 (C7=1967). The T means truck, and the E means it's an engine part. Thus, D2TE is a 1972 design of a truck engine part. Similarly, C7AE means a 1967 design auto engine part.
A full part number includes the four characters above, plus generally a four digit part number, followed by a revision code. For example, C8AE-xxxx-B would be a 1968 design auto engine part #xxxx, revision B.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 8
From: Brea CA
Casting #'s
Donald, are both these heads on your engine? If so, you have a compression ratio imbalance. The D2TE-AA heads have the smaller jellybean shaped chambers that spec. out at 68 – 71cc. The C7AE-A heads have the larger “D” shaped chambers that spec. out at 71 – 74cc. The intake and exhaust port sizes are the same though.
Barry
Barry
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: Simi Valley USA
Casting #'s
Yes BBB those are the heads on the engine.
The D2TE-AA is on the left and the C7AE-A is on the right.
Is this a problem? Can it be corrected?
Thanks for the info karlsd.
Keep it coming.
Don
The D2TE-AA is on the left and the C7AE-A is on the right.
Is this a problem? Can it be corrected?
Thanks for the info karlsd.
Keep it coming.
Don
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
Casting #'s
Yes that is a problem. Someone definitely didn't to their homework when they threw that together. There are different casting numbers that will work together but since FE heads are fairly plentiful why not stick to the same castings. The D2TEAA heads will give you good compression and can be ported fairly well if you are looking for some performance.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 8
From: Brea CA
Casting #'s
Don, that's a problem you can live with 'till you decide to fix it. It won't hurt anything except the smoothness, I'd be interested in what a compression check and a vacuum check reads. Truck 390's have a huge deck clearance that can lower the compression ratio from say 10.5 to around 8.5. This extra clearance volume somewhat reduces the effect of the different head volumes. For example, a 11.0 engine would be reduced to 10.7 while a 8.8 engine would only be reduced to 8.6.
Hate to admit it but I've actually seen the Ford dealer do this kind of mismatch too, guess it wasn't important to them either. When you rebuild, use D2TE-AA heads like Rat said. They are a lot easier to find and with a little port work and bigger exhaust valves will do just fine. In the meantime, why not just swap the heads from side to side every month or so just to even things out.
Barry
Hate to admit it but I've actually seen the Ford dealer do this kind of mismatch too, guess it wasn't important to them either. When you rebuild, use D2TE-AA heads like Rat said. They are a lot easier to find and with a little port work and bigger exhaust valves will do just fine. In the meantime, why not just swap the heads from side to side every month or so just to even things out.
Barry
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 93
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From: Simi Valley USA
Casting #'s
Well Guys, I guess I found out why it runs kinda rough.
Idling is really rough, sorta like I've got some wild cam.
The compression test yielded the following:
Dry Wet
1 35 35
2 120 125
3 85 85
4 110 115
Dry Wet
5 120 120
6 135 135
7 130 130
8 115 115
With vacuum advance disconnected...
The vacuum flucuates from 7.5-8.5 at idle
Increases to 11 at 1200 rpm
I don't have a compressor, so a leak down test isn't possible.
It would seem to me that It's mostly a valve problem.
What other tests can I do?
I think I found a matching replacement pair (maybe)
Will this # work on a 1973 390?
C8AE-H
I'm assuming from the previous reference by karlsd that these are a 1968 auto engine part.
More....
Don
Idling is really rough, sorta like I've got some wild cam.
The compression test yielded the following:
Dry Wet
1 35 35
2 120 125
3 85 85
4 110 115
Dry Wet
5 120 120
6 135 135
7 130 130
8 115 115
With vacuum advance disconnected...
The vacuum flucuates from 7.5-8.5 at idle
Increases to 11 at 1200 rpm
I don't have a compressor, so a leak down test isn't possible.
It would seem to me that It's mostly a valve problem.
What other tests can I do?
I think I found a matching replacement pair (maybe)
Will this # work on a 1973 390?
C8AE-H
I'm assuming from the previous reference by karlsd that these are a 1968 auto engine part.
More....
Don
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,130
Likes: 8
From: Brea CA
Casting #'s
Hi Don, sorry I got real busy all of a sudden. Yeah it looks like you got two bad cylinders. #1 is totally dead, #3 may be firing at higher speed but I’m sure it’s missing at idle. Vacuum is way too low and corresponds with the compression check but I'd thought it would bounce a little more. Might want to check your timing chain for stretch too. The low cylinders seem like valve problems, the only other cause could be is that the cam went flat. You can pull off the valve covers and run it while checking that the rockers push the valves all the same amount. This can get a little messy, don't rev it. I’d say its time to pull those heads off. How long has it been running this way?
C8AE-H heads will work fine, they are almost identical to the D2 heads. These heads were used on both the cars and light trucks. Make sure your C8 heads have the vertical bolt pattern, two per port. The heads with the diagonal bolt pattern won’t accept your exhaust manifolds. Keep us posted.
Barry
C8AE-H heads will work fine, they are almost identical to the D2 heads. These heads were used on both the cars and light trucks. Make sure your C8 heads have the vertical bolt pattern, two per port. The heads with the diagonal bolt pattern won’t accept your exhaust manifolds. Keep us posted.
Barry
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 962
Likes: 2
From: Collierville, TN
Casting #'s
It does sound like a valve problem, in that squirting some oil had no effect on compression. Those C8AE-H heads are good heads. I bought and rebuilt a pair for the 410 I'm building. Be aware that they don't have hardened valve seats, though, so you should probably have them installed when you rebuild them.
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