In my 69 F100, currently with a "doggy" worn out 360. Which other engines will bolt up to the factory 3 speed. I would like to find a good engine out of a mid 70's station wagon ??

 

The 360 shares tranny bolt patterns with only the engines in it's family. Why a mid 70's station wagon??? You can get a 390 and bolt it right in with no other mods. You will not find an FE in a mid 70's car. They were only in trucks.

 

sc69, Your 360 is a detuned 390. Have you thought about having it rebuilt? A 390 crank and piston set is all that is required, and you know where the block came from.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

Don't forget about the rods John.

 

Thanks for the responses,


I really dont want to use this block.
The block has a water leak in the coolant p#####age just behind the oil filter mounting. No it is not a freeze plug. I only wished it was that simple. A quart of sodium silicate seems to have taken care of it for now. The truck sat in a feild in Texas for 7 years. The motor is as gummed up as as I seen. Rocker arms had to be scraped with a gasket removal tool. I have been running some top end oil, like Marvel with it and it is slowly cutting the parrafin out with each oil change and the lifter that was knocking occasionly is mostly quiet now. But when I found the coolant dripping down the block, I realized how bad the p#####ages must be inside this thing and have really decided to not put any more money into this engine. AS for the station wagon deal, I was just looking for a good donor vehicle to get a like size good running motor from. Most all the trucks in the wrecking yards around here have no engines.(no surpise there) Just trying to broaden my field when looking for a donor vehicle.


Thanks in advance for the help....

Mark

 

I dont understand why when my message posted the word "P A S S A G E" it displays #### instead. ??????

 

Sean, I guess you can tell I don't buy many engine parts, because I thought crank and piston set would include them. But what do I know. :-X23
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

As John pointed out, the only easy replacement for your FE engine is another FE. That generally means a 352, 360, 390 or 428 from 1960s Ford cars and trucks, though the 360 and 390 were used in trucks through 1976. No other engine will bolt up to your tranny. You can replace that 360 with a 302, 351, 460, etc., but doing so will require a new tranny, too, and will also probably require other mods such as new engine perches.

If your block is bad, look around for a 352/360/390. The 390s are harder to find and more expensive than either the 352 or the 360. Here in Memphis, it's practically impossible to get a decent used 390, but 360s are common and cheap ($300 for a good used motor, $50 for a rebuildable core). Don't even bother looking for a 410, 427 or 428 -- even if you find one, you won't probably be able to afford it.

If you find a decent running 360, buy it and drop it in. When it needs rebuilding, just replace the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) with a set from a 390 and, voila, you have a 390 (the 360 and 390 are otherwise identical). A 390 crank and rods go for $250-350, depending on condition and your luck. Or go crazy and drop in a 428 crank ($300+) to give yourself 410 cid.

One last tip -- if you do find a 352 or 390 block, check the mounting bosses. Early blocks (pre-65?) are only drilled for two bolts per side. Later blocks such as the one in your truck are drilled for four bolts. You need a later one. Any 66 and up block should work fine.

Karl
69 F100 Ranger 360/C6, soon to be a 410/C6...

 

Thanks for saving me a significant amount of time.

I will just concentrate on looking for a running truck motor, 352, 360, etc. I just want something I can bolt in a drive. I really don't want to tear into an FE because I don't know how to properly rebuild, ( and don't want to) and the machine shops around here are not known for quality rebuilds either. I was quoted $350 for a FE, running wrecking yard motor, 30 day warranty. Does that sound decent?

 

Na, crank kits usually just come with bearings and piston kits just usually have pistons & pins. I couldn't even buy rods from autozone or o'reilleys. My local machine shop sold me a set of C7AE-B rods with new ARP bolts, resized big ends and new bushings for $270. A little high but I wasn't going to buy from PAW.

 

Ratsmoker,

Has your truck been lowered at all or is that the standard ride height? Great pics of the pre-installed engine.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 29-Jan-02 AT 00:30 AM (EST)]Na it's probably the same springs that came with it 32 years ago. Might be a little saggy. After the bedliner and differential gears the suspension is my next project. Still rides smooth at 90MPH+. I would like to lower it slightly just for drivability. I do not want the "slammed" look. It may look lower than some others because the 255/70R15 tires are a good bit taller than stock. Thanks for the compliments on the motor.

 

If the picture in your gallery is how it looked when you bought it for $400 you got a great deal no matter how it ran.

 

Well it was covered with mild surface rust and the doors were different color. Factory 15" wheels in front, two different sizes,
U G L Y, white wagon spokes with real tall tires in back, looked stupid. $300 for wheels and tires, and $175 for white paint, relplaced LF fender and tailgate and shot that sucker right before it turned cold, that just about covers my entire investment.
Did yours come with disc or drum front brakes? What about Power steering? Mine has PS but I think it has been converted to it. The gear box leaks badly and a seal kit is only $11, while a new box it $176, Are they hard to re-seal?



Mark

 

Mine was the ranger package so it had PS PB and AC but the front brakes are drum. You don't know what ugly is. My dad has pics of mine when I bought it for $900. There was no rust but it was half primer and half brown. I did the paint before the motor just because it was so ugly. Normally I would do it the other way around.