>As John pointed out, the only easy replacement for your FE
>engine is another FE. That generally means a 352, 360, 390
>or 428 from 1960s Ford cars and trucks, though the 360 and
>390 were used in trucks through 1976. No other engine will
>bolt up to your tranny. You can replace that 360 with a
>302, 351, 460, etc., but doing so will require a new tranny,
>too, and will also probably require other mods such as new
>engine perches.
>
>If your block is bad, look around for a 352/360/390. The
>390s are harder to find and more expensive than either the
>352 or the 360. Here in Memphis, it's practically
>impossible to get a decent used 390, but 360s are common and
>cheap ($300 for a good used motor, $50 for a rebuildable
>core). Don't even bother looking for a 410, 427 or 428 --
>even if you find one, you won't probably be able to afford
>it.
>
>If you find a decent running 360, buy it and drop it in.
>When it needs rebuilding, just replace the rotating assembly
>(crank, rods, pistons) with a set from a 390 and, voila, you
>have a 390 (the 360 and 390 are otherwise identical). A 390
>crank and rods go for $250-350, depending on condition and
>your luck. Or go crazy and drop in a 428 crank ($300+) to
>give yourself 410 cid.
>
>One last tip -- if you do find a 352 or 390 block, check the
>mounting bosses. Early blocks (pre-65?) are only drilled
>for two bolts per side. Later blocks such as the one in
>your truck are drilled for four bolts. You need a later
>one. Any 66 and up block should work fine.
>
>Karl
>69 F100 Ranger 360/C6, soon to be a 410/C6...

Karl,

Evidently, you have done this a few times. Question: Is there an obvious way of seeing what the motor is either a 360 or 390 from a visual standpoint? thanks. BW

 

I've only done it once, but I learned a lot in the process. I tend to be thorough (or "****", depending on your point of view).

To answer your question -- no, there is no way to tell by external visual inspection whether an engine is a 360 or a 390. The easiest way to find out is to measure the stroke. Remove a spark plug, and drop a wooden dowel into the hole (some guys use a length of stiff wire, which would also work). Rotate the motor by hand (a wrench on the fan pulley bolt works best), and watch the dowel to find TDC. When the piston is at TDC, mark the dowel right where it emerges from the plug hole. The rotate the engine until that piston is at BDC, and mark the dowel again. Pull the dowel out and measure the distance between the marks. If it is 3.5", you have a 352 or 360. If it is a 3 and 3/4 inches (3.78", to be exact, which this method never is), you have a 390 (or an extremely rare 406 or 427 -- don't bet on it). If it is 4 inches (3.98"), you have either a 428 or a 66-67 Mercury 410 (basically, just a 390 with a 428 crankshaft in it).

All you really need to keep in mind is that there were only three basic FE crankshafts, with strokes of 3.5, 3.78, and 3.98 inches. Once you determine which one is in your block, you've got a pretty good idea what you have. Of course, if you have a 360 with a 3.50" stroke, replacing the crankshaft and connecting rods with ones from a 390 or 428 is a relatively simple way to add displacement, torque and power.

 

i heard a new twist to the dowel method of measuring the stroke. and to give credit where credit is due, i heard it from one of our fellow FTE'ers.

remove spark plugs for #1 and #8 cylinder. turn motor by hand until #1 cylinder is at TDC. #8 is now at BDC. drop your dowel in #1 plug hole, mark, then drop in #8 plug hole and mark. measure the difference.


none of that hold-the-dowel-with-one-hand-and-crank-the-motor-with-the-other mess.

 

I saw that, too. I can't believe that never occurred to me before. It makes so much more sense.