Green Coolant
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Northern Indiana
Green Coolant
I just saw a post that said if I still had green coolant to change it or engine damage is happening. I have a 99 250 with the 7.3 with 180,000 miles, and it still has the green coolant. What damage is it causeing and what sould I use to replace it? Should I change the themostat with it and flush it or just drain and refill? Thanks all for the help. 
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: northern Michigan
the green coolant, ethelyne glycol oxidizes over time and when it breaks down turns into an acid. If the PH drops below 8, corrosion accelerates. Also your additive package is a consumable, this includes stuff to lubricate your water pump. Additive packages should be tested and adjusted once a year or every 15000 miles. Also your coolant has an additive for anti electrolysis in it that is specific for wet sleeved engines. After 36,000 miles the system should be drained and flushed then refilled. Used distilled water so you do not add any minerals to the cooling system. Going like you have you run the risk of sleve seal failure, head gasket failure and leaks in the heater core, radiator core, blockage from corrosion products in the cores. They also make extended service coolants, they also need the additive packages tested and adjusted but due not oxidize as fast, so don't need to be drained and flushed as often.
Around here the test strips are carried by NAPA and they test for PH and additive concentration.
Around here the test strips are carried by NAPA and they test for PH and additive concentration.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Personally, I used to just change the green every two years. Now I have the Gold stuff (came in my truck), so I just check it with strips every so often and make sure it's still good. When I get the rest of the coolant system stuff in (coolant filter, 203* 'stat, billet housing, around-the-belt hose), I'll drain, flush with distilled water, and fill with the red stuff. The red stuff is Rotella ELC, but can also be found at WalMart as "Final Charge" in a 50/50 mix. I emailed the company to see where to find the concentrate and they said Napa carries it, so I'll check there next time I'm in the neighborhood.
Joe
Joe
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Lead Driver
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From: Northern Indiana
So stormy rider, I should test the coolant with the strips. Does the package for the strips tell me what the range I need to be in is? Then if it is bad I should flush the system and refill with the red or is my truck to old for the red and just fill with the green and keep testing it?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
You can switch to either red or gold. It's up to you. I would go with red if I was already tearing into the system and was doing a flush anyway. You said you have 180k on the truck -- has the coolant ever been tested/changed until this point? The reason I ask is that normally, the water pump would've gone by now if the system was neglected for that long.
Joe
Joe
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Northern Indiana
I don't know. I bought the truck at 167,000 miles and have done nothing except two oil changes and fuel filter. I just saw the post so I was wondering about it and what else I should think about doing to make sure it is in tip top shape. The motor runs great and the tranny seems to be fine to, but should I change all the fluids in the diffs, transfercase, tranny and coolant just to be safe?
On another note is there anything else I should know about or change to make sure I am good for the 2000 mile road trip at the end of the month?
On another note is there anything else I should know about or change to make sure I am good for the 2000 mile road trip at the end of the month?
Last edited by Firefighter 1406; Sep 30, 2007 at 07:45 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: northern Michigan
The package the test strips come in have a graph on it. you look at the additive which will be a shade of brown versus the shade of green which is your ph, where the two meet on the graph is where you are at. if you saying you are at 180,000 on the original green coolant, I would dump & flush, forget the testing, that coolant is well paid for and needs retired.
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Locomotive breath
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Mid Oh. Ponderosa
You can go with the red or Final Charge from Walmart and no need to use test strips, SCA's are in it already. Only after a complete flush. It probably would not hurt to check it just to make sure.
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Post Fiend
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
I'm with stormy -- just dump it and move on. A few gallons of coolant is a cheap investment. Same with the tranny and/or diffs. A few quarts of gear oil/tranny fluid and *KNOWING* you've got good, clean stuff in there is worth the price.
Joe
Joe
Locomotive breath
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Mid Oh. Ponderosa
Originally Posted by rmilchman
I understand the red / final charge comes with SCA, but does it ever have to be tested and have an additive added?
Elder User
Joined: May 2002
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From: Robbinsville NJ
Originally Posted by Izzy351
You can check it whenever you want obviously, but it's not supposed to need an additive until 300k.
Joe
Joe
Rich
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by rmilchman
Thanks. I've heard 300K number, but wasn't sure if that was when to add additive or the life of the coolant.
Rich
Rich