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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 09:37 PM
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Battery problems

Well I just got home from my honeymoon this morning. This afternoon I went to go start my truck up and the batterys were almost dead. It made about three cranks and then it wouldnt crank anymore. I didnt have anything on while I was gone. I had my buddy jump start it and then it was fine. Then tonight I was driving and the battery light started comming on and then flickering when the RPMs got higher. I hate electrical systems and I thinks the battery light is for the charging system but I have no idea where to start. Any help??
 
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 10:33 PM
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Alternator is toast, go ahead and replace both batts(unless they are pretty new) also. A failing alternator can burn up cells in batts. And Yes the batt light means the alternator is not putting out.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 10:41 PM
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Bad batteries won't take a charge. Are they the original units? If so, they are overdue. Get new ones then test the alternator with a multimeter by probing the baterry terminals, both. The alternater should be putting out at least 13.5 volts. If not, pull that out and take to parts store and have it tested.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 10:55 PM
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i had the batterys replaced last winter because it would only crank for about 3 seconds and then the batts would be so dead that it wouldnt crank anymore. now its the same thing again.
 
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Old Aug 19, 2007 | 10:59 PM
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also if the alternator is toast where is the best place to get a new one without spending a arm and a leg?
 
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 08:28 AM
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Sounds like an open diode in the alternator. That will drain out the battery as well.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Lovin7.3
also if the alternator is toast where is the best place to get a new one without spending a arm and a leg?
You can go to local Autozoo, Orielleys, etc... But be warned, only get a new alternator, do not get a remanufactured. You will spend a little more for the new one but it will have a lifetime warranty just like the reman. Also have them bench test new alternator before leaving.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 03:05 PM
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my buddy is kinda wondering if its the alternator or not because he had one go out on is PSD and it went out all at once. Mine the volt meter on the dash reads right and everything. Just the batt light stays on and when the rpms get to about 2g it starts to flicker then at about 2400 it will turn off. once you let off the fuel it will come back on. Like I said I know nothing about electrical just following up on his question.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 04:46 PM
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Like Tenn01 says above.. get a volt meter and put it on the batteries and at idle, wait for about a minute while your GPR kicks off and you should have in neighborhood of 13.5 Volts or alittle higher... If not, your alternator is toast..
 
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Lovin7.3
my buddy is kinda wondering if its the alternator or not because he had one go out on is PSD and it went out all at once. Mine the volt meter on the dash reads right and everything. Just the batt light stays on and when the rpms get to about 2g it starts to flicker then at about 2400 it will turn off. once you let off the fuel it will come back on. Like I said I know nothing about electrical just following up on his question.
they test them free at auto parts stores, on the truck or off. Its three bolts that hold the alt. on, and two wires to disconnect. Quit guessing and have it tested.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Lovin7.3
my buddy is kinda wondering if its the alternator or not because he had one go out on is PSD and it went out all at once. Mine the volt meter on the dash reads right and everything. Just the batt light stays on and when the rpms get to about 2g it starts to flicker then at about 2400 it will turn off. once you let off the fuel it will come back on. Like I said I know nothing about electrical just following up on his question.
Sounds exactly like mine did when it went out. After few days the Batt light will start to stay on longer and at higher RPMs and you volt meter on the dash will begin to show less voltage, then you will have no headlight, taillights, radio, and no prayer for a restart when she quits. So do yourself a favor and get your alternator replaced and do it soon. I went with the AutoZone new with lifetime warranty 18months ago and still doing good. I don't thing AutoZone knows what lifetime means to a PSD owner.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 06:29 PM
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Don't know what autozoo charges but here are example of Ford Factory Altenators..from www.fordparts.com

Alternator, f350, 7.3l diesel, 95 amp 99-01 $186.15
Alternator Is Serviced As An Assembly Only.

Alternator, f350, 7.3l diesel, 110 amp, single alternator 99-01 $200.03
Alternator
 
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 06:32 PM
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Don't remember what Ford wanted when I bought mine, but it was more at Ford and Ford didn't have a lifetime warranty. It seems like it was only a year at Ford.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2007 | 06:38 PM
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I believe the regulator's set point is 14.4 volts.

Pop
 
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Old Aug 21, 2007 | 05:35 AM
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Turns out I had one bad battery and the alternator failed the test to. Now I got two new batts and a nice shinny alternator. thanks
 
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