HELP - Pulling 390 info
I knew I needed the over haul it, but not this soon.
I have a few questions before I can start. I have no cherry picker to pull it, but have a 500 pound rated electric winch. Will this be enough to pull the 390. What does the 390 weigh? Second, the rafters in my garage are on 24 inch centers, if I straddle four rafters with a 4 x 6 will this be enough to support the 390. Otherwise I will have to find somewhere else to pull it.
I can always pull the manifold and heads if I need too, but would like to pull it in one piece.
Any help would be apprecicated.
Bob
Some of the better versed guys will be along in a bit for better help, and they will let you know if I'm all wet on that call.

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John
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
I also need to replace the rod bearings. I was going to just replace the rod and main bearings in the truck, but decided to pull it.
If it is the valves can that much air come up through the valve guides!! My understand on the pressure test was that if it was an exhaust valve you would hear it in the tail pipe and if it was an intake you would hear it in the carb. My compressor kick off at 130 and on at 90 and it took about a minute to cycle. The engine has a little over 100K on it and I don't think that the short block has ever been touched. I think the heads have been replace as well as the intake according to the casting numbers.
Bob
Sounds like a broken piston to me.
Eric
Using an electric winch and ceiling rafters sounds extremely dicey to me. Beg, borrow, steal or rent an engine hoist. It'll save you a lot of time and be a lot safer. I have visions of you being a candidate for next year's "Darwin Awards" when one of those joists cracks and the motor drops.
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I want to do the oil mods, but lost my info that I had on them. Could someone point me in the right direction.
I found a cherry picker at a rental place, cost is $30.00/day kind of steep.
I have a feeling that it is a broken piston by the amount of air that was coming out of the oil filler hole. Hopefully the cylinder wall is not damaged.
Bob
You seem to have a lot of blow-by which is usually ring problems. But again if you weren't using a leak down tester then who knows.
your rings are done, if you've got no oil pressure,
your cam bearings are done, if it's smoking like
a freight train, you intake valve stem seals are
done. If it's doing all of the above, the engine
is done. Time for a rebuild. Rent a cherry picker,
but first, unbolt everything, then rent the CP for
4 hours. Buy an engine stand, a 1000lb minimum
capacity...
Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100
'68 F100
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
'98 Contour SVT 2.5L V6 (Mods)
'01 ZX2 (No Mods yet)
I found you can get a decent 2 ton Shop Crane (Engine Hoist, Cherry Picker, whatever) at Harbor Freight Tools for about $200 and a 1000lb engine stand for about $40 bucks. I've used that hoist for a lot more than pulling engines. I realize alot of their tools are cheap, overseas steel, but for limited used in a small or home shop they are adequate. Do you most of you have a Harbor Freight Store Handy?
I guess I should post this in the Shop forum also.
I've done this several times and you really need a cherry picker. I bought a new one from Costco for $178 and it folds up nicely. the legs detatch and sit upright, so you could actually store it in a standard closet.
I like to remove the intake and heads in the truck because I can mount the short block easier that the whole engine. Not just because of the power brakes or A/C box or hood clearance, but that it's easier to wiggle the shortblock to get it to drop into the tranny. Also, the bolts are easier to reach from the top without the heads on.
But, from what you tell I suspect stuck rings on that piston, and they will be stuck in the most inward postion possible. When the piston then comes to the top and the cylinder is wider, there will be a lot of blowby.
Hpoe you get a healthy engine when you have rebuilt it.
Good luck.
Bill Brox








