Issue with timing....consistant "POP" thru Carb?
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: S.C.
Issue with timing....consistant "POP" thru Carb?
Old drawings have dizzy on front of Y-block, not rear? What I have gone by is #1 being front cylinder on Passenger side. What I get is good start, fairly smooth idle but with consistant "pop" thru carb. I traced to the #2 plug wire and when unplugged at #2 the "pop" goes away but when engine revd up I get a "clack from the 7-8 area. No "clack" with #2 plugged in.
Wires good and plug is good.
When I installed the dizzy I rotated to #1 TDC (I thought). The dizzy dropped right in and all the marks on dizzy and rotor lined up....but the rotor points toward the #5 plug wire (front drivers side cyl.).
Did I put dizzy in 180 deg. out and would this account for all the noises but still allow to start and run?
OR did I plug-wire it 180 deg. out?
My next step is reconfirm TDC on #1, recheck wire routing and dizzy placement.....but someone let me know about the "out 180" characteristics.
I have a '54 239 Y
thanks, Ed .................p.s....I need....
Wires good and plug is good.
When I installed the dizzy I rotated to #1 TDC (I thought). The dizzy dropped right in and all the marks on dizzy and rotor lined up....but the rotor points toward the #5 plug wire (front drivers side cyl.).
Did I put dizzy in 180 deg. out and would this account for all the noises but still allow to start and run?
OR did I plug-wire it 180 deg. out?
My next step is reconfirm TDC on #1, recheck wire routing and dizzy placement.....but someone let me know about the "out 180" characteristics.
I have a '54 239 Y
thanks, Ed .................p.s....I need....
Last edited by e william; Sep 28, 2007 at 07:40 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
Passenger Side (Front to rear)
1 2 3 4
Driver Side (Front to rear)
5 6 7 8
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/default.aspx
1 2 3 4
Driver Side (Front to rear)
5 6 7 8
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/default.aspx
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 2,063
Likes: 38
From: Valley Center, California
Not to muddy things up. Go ahead and sort out your Distributor issues. Hope that's the problem
Popping thru the Carb can also be an intake valve problem. Sticky guide, broken spring etc.
Dawg-a-roo
Popping thru the Carb can also be an intake valve problem. Sticky guide, broken spring etc.
Dawg-a-roo
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 3,005
Likes: 2
From: Santa Clarita
I'm not familiar with Y blocks or if the distributor is in the rear, etc. I have plenty of experience building engines in the past. As a rule, the popping thru the carburator usually means advanced timing. To retard the timing, turn the distributor counter clockwise, don't move it too much, a 1/4 inch at a time. If the distributor is in the front and it's a 289 or 302, the firing order for that is 1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8. AT TDC, the rotor on the dizzy should be pointing to the #1 cylinder.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 2
From: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Popping through the carb may also be a result of a lean fuel mixture. If the timing is sorted out and the popping is still present then you may want to confirm that the carb is adjusted properly. Try running with partial choke and see if popping goes away.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 289
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I think eman is on the right track, I would look for an intake valve problem, possibly even a worn cam lobe.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: S.C.
GOT IT !!!
Eman wins with his guess being the closest.
Checked plug wires routing...o.k.
checked dizzy install, I put it in with motor at 180 deg. out of TDC...but I also put the dizzy in per the previous marks which had the rotor pointing toward #5...so that wasnt the problem, just done wrong.
Here's the issue
Pulled the wires and ran motor until the "pop" was gone...#2 spark plug, pulled the valve cover and saw the the exhaust push rod was no longer seated between the lifter and rocker, just loose. So I guess when the exhaust valve didnt open the pressure figured out a new route...thru the carb. I must have had the motor 180 out when I adj. valves in Dec. 2005.
Reset motor to TDC, re-did the valve lash for all 8 cyl. (1\4 turn per cyl.) and adj. per the firing order, set timimg on the only mark on the 239 pulley which is 10 deg. btdc. RUNS VERY WELL NOW.
I will set the fuel mix and idle with a dwell meter and later change it to elec. Pertronix unit.
Now I have to work on oil guage not reading pressure, looks wet under valve covers??? New sender has power but might not work well.
Thanks to all for the advice, I'm sure I'll need more help soon!
Ed
Eman wins with his guess being the closest.
Checked plug wires routing...o.k.
checked dizzy install, I put it in with motor at 180 deg. out of TDC...but I also put the dizzy in per the previous marks which had the rotor pointing toward #5...so that wasnt the problem, just done wrong.
Here's the issue
Pulled the wires and ran motor until the "pop" was gone...#2 spark plug, pulled the valve cover and saw the the exhaust push rod was no longer seated between the lifter and rocker, just loose. So I guess when the exhaust valve didnt open the pressure figured out a new route...thru the carb. I must have had the motor 180 out when I adj. valves in Dec. 2005.
Reset motor to TDC, re-did the valve lash for all 8 cyl. (1\4 turn per cyl.) and adj. per the firing order, set timimg on the only mark on the 239 pulley which is 10 deg. btdc. RUNS VERY WELL NOW.
I will set the fuel mix and idle with a dwell meter and later change it to elec. Pertronix unit.
Now I have to work on oil guage not reading pressure, looks wet under valve covers??? New sender has power but might not work well.
Thanks to all for the advice, I'm sure I'll need more help soon!
Ed