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My wife just called and is stranded at work. Our 2000 Xpe Eddie Bauer 5.4L 4x4 won't start! She said it cranks but won't start up. It will start if she holds down on the gas and then revs it up after it starts. It's done this before and after I'd get it started and rev it up it would run and start fine for months at a time before this problem mysteriously pops up again. Currently it will not stay running unless she keeps her foot on the gas, i.e. stalls at anything below 1,000 rpms or so.
Please let me know what you all think this might be and some diagnostic tests or whatever to help narrow down and fix the problem. Thanks!!
I've got the same problem with my 2001 XLT. My wife was also stranded ;-) This is the first time we've experienced it. It was almost out of gas, so I went and got a full tank (even got plus instead of regular... don't know if that makes much difference really.) Drove it home and still is acting up.
When I first start it and drive as you mentioned with one foot on the gas and one on the brake (sounds like a Sammy Hagar song) it sounds like it's missing if I really tromp on it. Then it smooths out, but will stall again if I don't keep it revved above 1000.
We had the cruise control recall fix done several months ago, but no other recent work. I changed the plugs and cap at about 70K and it's at around 100K now.
Great news! I searched the forums and found some other links with this problem. I yanked the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) and tested it according to the Haynes manual. The signal from the wiring and the resistance across the terminals was good.
I yanked the valve and cleaned the air channel with Brake Parts Cleaner spray. Then shot it out with compressed air. I used a small screwdriver to GENTLY move the valve back and forth a few times. Then blew it out again with cleaner and air. Put it back on and it starts and purrs like a kitten at idle.
I'll be calling the parts store for a new one now that I know that's the problem. Don't want a repeat performance. The other link says they're about $50. And they are EASY to get to.
I have to agree with the clogged fuel filter. My 2000 EB was doing kind of the same thing. It wasn't that bad, but the "symptoms" were similar. The filter change was pretty easy to do, get the filter line tool. I may be telling you something you already know, but the fuel filter is located pretty much drectly under the driver's seat on the inboard side of the frame. I have seen posts that say to releave the pressure on the line....I couldn't figure out how to do it. But when I did it there wasn't any pressure to speak of and just a little bit of leakage,for what's it worth.
The EB is running fine now, funny how something that simple can really screw things up.
Great news! I searched the forums and found some other links with this problem. I yanked the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) and tested it according to the Haynes manual. The signal from the wiring and the resistance across the terminals was good.
I yanked the valve and cleaned the air channel with Brake Parts Cleaner spray. Then shot it out with compressed air. I used a small screwdriver to GENTLY move the valve back and forth a few times. Then blew it out again with cleaner and air. Put it back on and it starts and purrs like a kitten at idle.
I'll be calling the parts store for a new one now that I know that's the problem. Don't want a repeat performance. The other link says they're about $50. And they are EASY to get to.
Ciao and good luck,
Greg
2001 Expedition XLT
Just be sure when you swap in the new IAC that you don't mangle the gasket, even a little bit, I had a small rip on mine and ended up cutting a new gasket to replace it. Also, you might want to take the IAC replacement job just a bit further by removing the air intake hose that attaches to the throttle body and shine a flash light to the back wall of the throat, make sure there is no carbon clogging up the IAC opening, even a little bit will come back into the valve itself after you replace it; just clean it out with throttle-body approved solvent (it can't be anything but 'approved' solvent or you will damage the coating lining the inside of the throttle body). I replaced mine at 50k or so and have removed and cleaned it twice since then. While you are in there cleaning the IAC opening, just take some time to clean the entire TB, especially the throttle plate where it meets the TB on the bottom part of the TB. Take a rag and wipe it clean with the approved solvent. You will be surprised at the improvement.
BTW, I would still consider replacing the fuel filter in your case.
Update~ It did it again today. After about 15 minutes of trying, let it sit, trying yada yada, my wife got it to start. I will change the IAC valve and fuel filter. I'll have to check my spreadsheet, but I think I changed the Fuel Filter a year or two ago. It only takes a little gunk or bad gas to clog it though.
The only thing that changes the above suggestions is that it seems to do this after it's been raining, but not all the time. This year's been hella dry here in Southern Ohio so we've only been getting SOME rain lately. We had a leak in the windshield, but that's been resealed and fixed now. I hope the water from before hasn't corroded the electrical connections or is still happening and shorting it out. I'd rather replace the IAC and FF 10 times than trace down some mysterious occasional problem due to wiring fubar.
Thanks all for your input, I'll let you know if this works out.
I haven't had any problems since replacing the IACV. I actually ran it for about 2 weeks with my "fixed" IACV before I found time to put the new one on. It was $40 at Autozone. The only problem I had was that the new one had the electrical connection in a slightly different place than before, and there was a hose in the way of plugging it in. I had to unplug the hose, then plug in the IACV connector and reconnect the hose. Works fine though.
I think I will go ahead and change the fuel filter too in my spare time though... whenever that is ;-)
Cool! Thanks for the words of encouragement. I put a new IAC from AutoZone on about 3 days ago. So far so good. I hate intermittent problems that you can't recreate when they messed up. I know it's probably fixed, but it's always in the back of my mind that it might happen again. OH well at least it always started and ran OK eventually when it did happen.
Thanks again all for your help diagnosing the problem.
Update! It's been raining here in Southern Ohio for over 2 days straight. The Y2K Xpe is still starting and running great. I'm now 99% sure it was the IAC. So anyone having this problem... spend $50 and get a new IAC. It's a little bit of a PITA to get to b/c it's under the cowl, but after removing a vacuum Tee and a little finagling it's pretty easy to do.
HELP!!! I CANT FIND THIS DAMN VALVE!!! i the same truck, 2000 eb 5.4 4x4.. i have the ford CD and it shows the valve on the top of the throttle body, BUT ITS NOT THERE!!!!!!! Im strandid.. i have the part the tools.. the damn engine cover off and i cant find the damn valve!! PLEASE HELP!!!!
i just founf it... it is behind the throttle body.. way back, what a PITA to get to.. truck runs perfect now, but now my only question is why the hell was the location so far off?? hmmm???