Hey check this out. I wonder if it would work on our trucks??????


http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

 

I read a similar thread not long ago at the Mopar forums;
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/...0&fpart=1&vc=1

Very interesting and some god information. I think anything is possible with time and patience. The guy from the mopar board had great results and he used the rolling method to eliminate the fumes and overspray issues.

Interesting read
Bobby

 

One thing I would change is the paint. Rustoleum takes forever to dry. I have used ValSpar with very good results. I think it's a lot more durable than Rustoleum also. I plan to use ValSpar tractor restoration paint on my F-4. I'll be spraying it but I would think it would work as well, or better than Rustoleum using the roller method. The tractor restoration paint comes with it own reducer and hardener. The hardener will make the paint more durable.

Valspar also makes a hardener for other oil based paints that I use whenever I spray any kind of oil based paint. It makes the paint dry faster and helps resist chemicals like gas.

 

I'm amazed...

 

This actually works.

 

I painted my frame Rustoleum black and the Radiater valance white Rustoleum. I used a HVLP gun and thinned the paint with acetone. About 4 parts paint-1 part thinner
I was very pleased with the results, but I think I'll pass on painting the rest of the truck with Rustoleum.
I have a qt of silver lacqer in my basement that's looking gooder 'n gooder to me. Cut it 1x1 and get 2 qts. Enough to do the blue on my truck.

 

Only fifty bucks, but how much time???

I dig this guy. I painted my own vehicle, but its not as cheap or easy as this thread makes it sound.

The guy had to sand between every coat, and after you sand, you need to completely clean the vehicle. Do you know how long it takes to wipe down a car with prepsol? I know how long it takes to wipe down a '64 econoline van! My buddy Joe and I did a paint job on my old van in my garage (we could have done it outside) for $300 worth of paint/primer(and that was a panel van).

I think it comes down to what your time is worth. Your are going to put the same amount of time into the body work, no matter how you paint it, so that is a wash. Joe bought a $100 gun, we stapled up $30 worth of plastic and used an old attic fan for ventilation. I went down to the local paint shop and bought $300 worth of paint and primer (PPG shop line single-stage urethane) and 2 $25 respirators and we shot the van in two evenings(two-tone paint job). Done! No sanding between coats, no polishing, only about 30 minutes for bugs to fly into the paint. Ready for driving and enjoying.

You can roll it, brush it or finger paint it, but you're going to give up something and that is your time. What Joe and I did for $480 and three hours, you may be able to do for $50, but how much time will you spend doing it? And Joe is going to paint his truck, so the total cost is even less if you can find someone dumb enought to do it with you!!!

If all was right with the world, I'd give a guy $8k and he'd give me a professionally painted van back! There are always going to be these threads about the cheap way to paint a car, and I think we did it pretty cheaply, but what it lacks in price will be made up in your time, and ultimately, inferior products.

I wouldnt enjoy my van as much as I do if I had sunk the $8k in it that the body shop was asking. Some trucks/cars/vans are just drivers that dont need the 1,000 hours of block sanding that some of the show trucks need. I say do it, but know what you're getting into. There is no cheap way to go, and honestly, once I was done with the body work, I was too tired to give a hoot how the paint turned out.

Right there with you,

Ole' Green

 

I'm with bobj49f2. I'm going with ValSpar but I'm going to shoot it. Rolling takes to much time, and all that sanding, Not me.

 

Check out the July 2007 Issue of Hot Rod Magazine there's a great article on it. In short yes it works with great results but an insane amount of manhours are invovled.

 

The method used is usually called rolling and tipping. It is commonly done by DIY folks on boat hulls and decks using top quality paints with no or minimal sanding. There have been articles in boating magazines on it. On my wooden powerboat, I usually roll and tip when applying paint. It works very well. Cheaper paints will usually not weather as well as the better paints and fade much faster.

 

Tractor supply or Valspar paints do an excellent job on our old trucks or other
projects. With Valspar paints we've been using there hardner and naptha for thinner. In our shop we 've found that more hardner seems to work better, 1/2 again as much. The restoration series of paints from Valspar are a better quality paint and have there own specific hardner and reducer. Don't mix and match hardners and thinners you will get a poor shine. As far as Rustolium goes a good job can be gotten with Valspar regular hardener and using acetone for reducer. A local contractor that we paint for use only Rustolium for paint on there equipment and older trucks , without wax or any care at all usually still shines after 5 years .

Have A Good Day---- Hotwrench

 

Ya now just to pick a color for my 65!


Ray

 

I would stay away from laquer, it's not durable under the sun and will dull and check. No one uses laquer anymore, it's easy to spray and dries fast but just won't last.

 

Bob, my brain seems to work a whole lot faster than my typing finger. Assuming it works at all and that ain't always true. What I meant to say is, I have silver METALFLAKE in a qt of clear lacquer. I'm thinking real hard about shooting it over my Bimini blue. Later, if my wife doesn't kill me, I may shoot the bottom in silver. It's presently white with a bright green separation stripe. I'm thinking blood red separation stripe next.
Of course I'll clear it with acrylic enamel or urethane.

I just finished painting another house I own and for some reason cars and paint rollers don't compute with my 2 live brain cells.
I bought a couple of el cheapo HVLP guns and man that is the way to go. Very little over spray.

 

so if this was the best and most durable way to paint, i figure someone would have done it along time ago. Plus, what is your vehicle worth? i guess it it is a POS then you can give it a cheap paint job.