I agree, get a 220v wire feed welder and a bottle of gas. I use C02 with .030" wire for most of my medium to thicker welding and use mig gas with .024" wire for sheet metal welding. If I use flux core wire, I still use gas to reduce the splatter.
...Terry, Lincolin SP175

 

NASCAR race car frames are MIG welded. Parts of aircraft are MIG welded. Robotic welders for innumerable structural things are MIG welders. Its the settings and feed rate, and the weldor themselves that will determine the weld quality. The only thing often overlooked by using a MIG is that the initial start of the bead can be a little cold and weldors will be off and running the bead without paying much attention to the initial start.

While its true that one can have a good looking MIG weld bead that holds nothing, there's no reason to fear MIG welders or their welds if done correctly.

 

I never said to fear mig welding. But the priciple of the matter is, if you can lay a good arc bead, you can lay almost anything. It's all the same principle. You say "nascar frames air planes ect" are mig welded, but who's doing the welding? Some guy who just picked up a 150 dollar mig for the first time? Think about it.........

 

Uh, Nascar frames are TIG welded 4130 Chromoly steel. They have to be to meet the strength requirements for certification.
Solid core MIG isn't generally used for structural work, mostly for ornamental. FCAW dual shield wire is used for most structural work.

 

Andy Petrie Racing MIG'd their frames (Skoal Bandit) when Ken Schrader was driving. If you've seen some of the extreme building shows, the weldors are using MIG guns to weld certain parts of the structure. Granted they are probably shooting really big wire and they are 400 amp machines. But they are MIG.

 

Just get some thermite, clamp the pieces together, lay down the powder and hit it with a sparkler!!! Yeehaaaw!! Makes good trailside welds to get you home, You still need to wear a welder mask.

 

I'm wondering where I should start on that one.
Perhaps you should post your suggestions in the thread "what not to do in your garage".

 

I may not be the best truck mechanic, but welding is down my road.I have been an ASME and AWS welder since 1980.Recently been promoted too being in charge of our Welder Training Program here at my place of employment (ASME) as well as an instructor at our local College.Need more?

To answer the question for what to buy,is dont waste your money on a buzz boAC welder).There are too many variables to learn. MIG welders are easier to learn and if done properly will get good results.Dont buy a welder from Lowes/Home depot etc.Go to your local welding supply and buy from them,they will give good support. We use a small 110volt lincoln (SP135)for sm. portable jobs and it has turned out to be a decent machine.We run a gas mixture of 75/25 (Argon/Carbon Dioxide)to keep spatter down(better clean up).But running straight CO2 will work just fine. Just remember they work great inside not so much outside.If you do run outside watch the gas coverage or run flux core wire for outside use.
It doesnt realy matter which manufacture to buy from, Lincoln/Miller (Ford/GMC). If you ask the local welding supplier they might show you a few little tricks of welding(the reason to buy from them) or take a class,pick up a book,but practice at it. Do different joint configurations, a t-joint and try and break it apart in a vise to see if you get good penetration.Practice makes perfect.
If you need anymore advise let me know.

 

Pending on joint design and welding parameters MIG(GMAW) welding is just as strong as TIG(GTAW). NASCAR uses both application pending on whats to be welded. FCAW(Flux-core) is also just as strong,its all a matter of joint configuration and settings.

 

I think it goes without saying I'm not getting that welder. I'll wait a little longer and get a small Lincoln or Miller. Then after I get good at it if I need a bigger one I'll rent one from the Rent-all place down the street. Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions.

 

Too many variables? You have your polarity, dc or ac and your amperage. rod selection is all based on metal, amperage is a combo of speed and metal thickness and polarity/dc/ac is all about the rod and style of welding. Not many variable, just different ways of doing it.

 

The best answer is "go take a welding course at a local vo-tech" and then choose what welder and process you prefer. That training easily pays for itself.

I'm taking structural and pipe, and don't find stick (except, specifically, capping overhead welds) bad at all. You can do lots of useful things with stick, and being able to extend the leads is very handy when working outdoors.

For automotive sheet metal though, the small Lincoln MIGs work great and are in common use among my buds who do bodywork.

 

very well put, +++

 

Thank You,
for a very informative thread + keeping one-anothers differences civil.
I've come to the conclusion that the machine (type of welder) is as important as the person running it.
There is no replacement for skill!
My dilemma is: how much to fork out for a lack of skill on my part. I don't have an opportunity for formal instruction, so I need to settle for a one size fits all situation.
i.e. I need to be able to weld on my semi, as well as do some body work on my ole beater farm truck.

 

For bodywork, get a MIG. Spend the money, get a decent little Miller with a gas bottle. The smaller ones can run wire as small as .023", perfect for light work like bodywork and sheetmetal. They also have enough power to run .035" wire, which is acceptable for heavier work. The best machine will have an infinitely variable heat and wire speed setting, rather than just a few positions to choose from.
You can do bodywork with stick, but without a rather pricey machine, and the knowledge of how to use it properly, you will just frustrate yourself.
The best process is TIG, but the equipment costs will give you a heart attack. Not to mention the years of training to properly use that process.