Hi Guys:
I'm a newbie, and have only been on the site once before just to post my vin, and ask about the pos or neg ground. Now that I've gotten my '48 F-1 with a flathead 6 into the shop to start on it, I've got a bunch of questions. I just read the last thread about a generator not charging, and I've got the same problem. The guy I bought the truck from has the batt hooked up with a negitive ground. The truck really didnt even want to turn over. I corrected that, and it starts fine, but it doesn't seem to be charging. Do I just have to polarize the regulator? The ammeter doesn't move towards charging when you race the engine, but does show a little towards discharge when you turn on the lights.
Next, where the heck is the fuse box? There are no wires aft of the master cyl on this beauty, and what's up front would cause Edison to trun over in his grave.Next, where is the cowl vent operating lever, I can't find one, but maybe it's behind the GM am radio somebody installed upside down.
Next, is the steering box adjustable? Mine has alot of play. the tie rods and drag link are good, but the steering wheel swings 3 or 4 inches before the wheels turn. If it's not adjustable can someone recomend a good rebuilt suppiler who's not going to charge an arm and a leg, and some one to supply some other stuff like an ignition switch with keys, or a speedo cable. I'm going to use the truck to tow one of my Crosleys to the car shows and cruises. It should look sharp, a '48 F-1 towing a trailer with a '47 Crosley convert on a trailer.
Thanks

 

Sounds like a fun project. It will make a great looking tow rig.

To polarize the generator.... With the engine off, at the regulator, remove the field (F) wire and briefly touch it to the batt (B) connection. You should see a small bluish spark. Re-connect the field wire and you're done. This is per the shop manual.

Do not use a jumper wire - you can cause damage.

So, you looked everywhere and can't find a fuse block huh?, well, the good news is that you're not blind, the bad news is that there isn't a fuse box.

Hopefully the previous owner didn't cut off the vent handle when he mounted the GM radio (upside down). Poke your head under the dash, it should be located just to the left side of the speaker opening and to the right of the steering column.

the stearing box should be adjustable, but I can't remember, I replaced mine with a toyota box long ago/

Good luck
Bobby

 

Welcome to our gang, racerpete. I think Bobby pretty much covered your basic questions. Sounds like a cool plan.

BTW...think about starting a new paragraph with each new subject. It makes your post more readable. I read through it 4 times to figure out all the points.

Thanks for including your location in your personal profile. Now we know where you are.

Again...welcome!!!

 

There is a small metal box just to the passenger side of the instrument panel. It is a circuit breaker and works fairly well.

Polarizing: each time the battery is disconnected you will probably have to do this. Practice makes perfect.

Steering box is adjustable unless it has all the adjustment taken up. Put the axle up on jack stands, wheels off the floor, steering wheel straight ahead. There is a nut you loosen on the engine side of the gear box, then turn the screw clockwise until it just makes contact. What you're doing is pushing the sector roller into the worm gear. Don't go too far, only enough to take up most of the slack. Having an inch of play is ok. Tighten the lock nut, turn the wheel back and forth between the stops to make sure you don't have any binding spots. And you're good to go.

They aren't cheap to replace. Not too bad to repair but that's spendy too. If there's no adjustment left you're looking at $200-500

 

There are two circuit breakers behind the dash pod:



The breakers are on the extreme right in the picture above.

 

Welcome ! Glad to have you on board.

And apparently.... Bobby can help you with any Star Trek questions you might have.....

 

Welcome !

Glad to have you with us. Lots of smart folks here to help.

And from what I've just seen........ Bobby can help you with any Star Trek questions you may have .....

 

Oops. I made the joke two times

 

Dawg,

Maybe the wookie hit enter twice........

 

Thanks Guys. This will be a big help, I'll try polarizing the gen today. I'm sure I'll have more questions, and that you'll be hearing from me again
Thanks again

 

Try these guys for a rebuild. I had mine ('50 F1) done there and are satisfied. Easy to work with, cost was about $250 complete 1 week turnaround.
http://www.rebuildingfactory.com/contact_us.html

There is some adjustment as you probably know by now at the box. Adjusting screw on side takes up some slack. Adjustment procedure detailed in Shop Manual.

 

Thanks for the help so far,the generator now puts out power, and I'll be tackling the steering box in the AM, but here's a couple of more questions:
1- How do you get the headlight switch out? I can not find the button to release the **** and shaft.
2- Is there a shop manual on-line for a '48 F-1 ? If not,where can I buy one?
3- Where is the best place to get an ignition switch and key set? my key is worn almost smooth, and I have to play with it alot to get it to turn on.
4- Has anyone put a different seat into one of these cabs? I'm a big guy (almost 6'2") and am a little cramped behind the wheel, is there a thinner seat that will fit and look good?
Thanx !

 

Pete, I can't help you with #1 and #4 but here are some resources where you can obtain a Shop Manual and ignition switch and key set.
I'll check my library this evening on your switch removal question.

MAC's Antique Auto Parts
C&G Early Ford Parts
Sacramento Vintage Ford Parts
LMC Truck
Joblot Automotive
The Ford Barn
Blue Oval Truck, all ordering info for these are online.

I would also get my hands on a Chilton Manual for your year. Amazon.com probably your best bet.

Shop Manuals online can be had at precision-illustraion.com and gearheadcafe.com. I like the printed version, bring it into the garage for reference.
Hope this helps.

 

Pete, my manual is for a '49 thru '51. I don't think the '48 and '49 are any different. But I don't know for sure.
Here goes.
IGNITION SWITCH: The ignition switch is removed and installed from 1949 and 1950 trucks at the rear of the instrument panel. The bezel must first be removed by prying it away from the panel. Be careful not to scratch the finish on the panel. The ignition switch can now be removed by turning it 1/8 turn clockwise until the lugs line up with slots in the panel and then pulling it out from the rear of the panel. Disconnect the wires from the switch terminals.

When installing the switch on 1949 and 1950 models, be sure to align the small projection behind the top lug with its slot in the panel, to keep the switch from rotating.

Since you can't find any set screw or release I confident this will be your application.

Let me know how you make out.

 

Thanks, Canarsie Kid. But what I really need to know how to remove is the headlight switch. the wiring in my truck is a big butcher job, and I want to start at the switch to properly repair it.