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I installed my 6637 yesterday, (Sunday). I love the sound I'm hearing. It also sounds like the turbo is spooling quicker. I don't have gauges, but I think they're next. Unless I decide to do the 10k, 14.7k, or 15.6k.
Is it ok to do this mod without gauges, or should I wait and get the gauges first? I tow a 24-foot travel trailer and am concerned with 10k etc. that EGTs may get out of hand and I wouldn't know it until it's too late.
gauges are always best to have first, i dont have them yet but i only tow 7thousand pounds, your 24 footer is probably a bit more than that so i would recomend towing stock till the gauges go in, just incase
I agree. His way is easy to switch. I still have the old 10K on mine but I have the TW and I am told the 10K is unnecessary on some of the burns. I will disconnect and test run then try the c00n way to verify the difference soon. I have others I need to post first but I have been traveling too much.
if you do the mod myway, its a quick change to go stock for when you tow and then back to "ressisted" when done
This was my thinking as well. I figured I'd go ahead and make some "kits" from 4.7k to 15.6k to have on hand.
I'll cut the wire (blue with red stripe? I'll double-check my notes.) and add the connectors so she's ready to accept the "kits" I'm building. If I have enough resistors to do what I want, I should end up with "kits" for:
4.7k (one 4.7k)
5.6k (one 5.6k)
9.4k (two 4.7k)
10k (one 10k)
10.3k (one 4.7k and one 5.6k)
11.2k (two 5.6k)
15.9k (one 4.7k and two 5.6k)
20.6k (two 4.7k and two 5.6k)
There are other combinations, but it sounds like getting above 20k is counterproductive.
I don't have the knowledge like you guys, to take any readings, so my results would be from the "seat-of-the-pants" computer I take everywhere with me. How would I test each "kit" after it is installed? These "kits" would be installed on the truck in my signature.
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