cruise control horn button issues
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From: Pittsburgh
cruise control horn button issues
I have a 1986 F-150 with cruise and tilt column.
Whenever I hit the horn button it instantly blows the fuse, but if I hit the "ON" button for the cruise, the horn will begin to sound and won't stop until I unplug the horn directly.
Inside the wheel there are 3 wires. a yellow one with blue dots, a light blue one, and a black one.
The yellow one carries power in, the black one goes straight to ground, and the blue one seems to carry power out somewhere.
Now, when I press the horn button it completes the circuit between yellow and black which sends power straight to ground and nothing happens
BUT if i jumper between the blue and yellow wire the horn will sound.
So, is this horn supposed to be a "ground to sound" or does it send power out to the horn?
It's almost like the black and blue wires are reversed, but from the connectors they can't be.
Justin
Whenever I hit the horn button it instantly blows the fuse, but if I hit the "ON" button for the cruise, the horn will begin to sound and won't stop until I unplug the horn directly.
Inside the wheel there are 3 wires. a yellow one with blue dots, a light blue one, and a black one.
The yellow one carries power in, the black one goes straight to ground, and the blue one seems to carry power out somewhere.
Now, when I press the horn button it completes the circuit between yellow and black which sends power straight to ground and nothing happens
BUT if i jumper between the blue and yellow wire the horn will sound.
So, is this horn supposed to be a "ground to sound" or does it send power out to the horn?
It's almost like the black and blue wires are reversed, but from the connectors they can't be.
Justin
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Your wiring does not match a truck with factory cruise.
There are two versions, one with cruise, one without. The one without cruise has the hot wire (yellow/blue dots) coming into the column, going to the horn switch, and coming out on the darkblue which goes out to the horns. There is no relay in this system.
The cruise control version has no hot wire going to the column. The yellow/blue dot wire goes to the horn relay, which you do not have. Then the darkblue comes off the relay, goes up in the column, and gets grounded by the horn switch for the horn to blow. The darkblue also feeds the cruise switches. They have 3 different resistance values hooked to them. They have the black hooked to them for a ground, and also they have a lightblue/black dot wire which leaves the switches, and goes down the column to the cruise control amplifier.
There are two versions, one with cruise, one without. The one without cruise has the hot wire (yellow/blue dots) coming into the column, going to the horn switch, and coming out on the darkblue which goes out to the horns. There is no relay in this system.
The cruise control version has no hot wire going to the column. The yellow/blue dot wire goes to the horn relay, which you do not have. Then the darkblue comes off the relay, goes up in the column, and gets grounded by the horn switch for the horn to blow. The darkblue also feeds the cruise switches. They have 3 different resistance values hooked to them. They have the black hooked to them for a ground, and also they have a lightblue/black dot wire which leaves the switches, and goes down the column to the cruise control amplifier.
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Postmaster
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From: Pittsburgh
hmmm. is there anyway to tell if the crusie is factory or dealer add-on? the horn pad is the "on/off" and "resume-set accel/coast". It's burled oak simulated wood grain, has a ford oval in the middle, as is the sealed unit that is only supposed to be serviced as an assembly.
Is this factory or add on?
Justin
Is this factory or add on?
Justin
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The Ford cruise system uses the normal HORN circuit to power the cruise.
Because of this..there is a special harness under the dash that operates the horn via a relay.
IMO, you have switch problem in that steering wheel pad.
Under the pad there should be a horsehoe style connector that clips on the steering wheel tabs with a ground connector that slides in the steering wheel hub hole.
The pad switches looks like this when removed.
Because of this..there is a special harness under the dash that operates the horn via a relay.
IMO, you have switch problem in that steering wheel pad.
Under the pad there should be a horsehoe style connector that clips on the steering wheel tabs with a ground connector that slides in the steering wheel hub hole.
The pad switches looks like this when removed.
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From: Pittsburgh
yes, that is exactly what the setup looks like once you peel it all apart. The problem has to be the hot yellow wire. the horn button connects to that lower white 2 pin connector and completes the circuit from yellow to black which creates the dead short that blows the fuse.
i'll stick my head up undr the dash, see if i can't find the horn relay. in 21 years god knows what some PO did to pass inspection.
Justin
i'll stick my head up undr the dash, see if i can't find the horn relay. in 21 years god knows what some PO did to pass inspection.
Justin
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Are you ready for this ?
On the 70's trucks ....If the power to the cruise control box is disconnected under the dash ...and everything else is connected the Horn is acutated by pushing the ON button.
Here is the harness and components under the dash
On the 70's trucks ....If the power to the cruise control box is disconnected under the dash ...and everything else is connected the Horn is acutated by pushing the ON button.
Here is the harness and components under the dash
Last edited by Mil1ion; Sep 23, 2007 at 09:52 PM.
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From: Pittsburgh
hmm. . . so my problem could just be something along the lines of a blown cruise control fuse or a pinched power feed to the crusie.
anyway, here's what else i've done. I found the actual horn relay and unplugged it. I still have +12V on the yellow wire. when the relay is installed i have continuity from black to blue, but when i take the relay out I have a resistance reading of about 150ohms from blue to ground.
the horn still beeps by completing the blue to yellow connection.
I'm liking the idea of the no power to the cruise module. The horn worked until i dropped the column out of the truck to swap over to a manual pedal assemply. There's a good chance something could have gotten tangled up down there.
BUT i'm still confused by Franklin2's description. From his response, pushing the horn button should complete the circuit from blue to black to sound the horn. The button definitely completes the yellow/black circuit, which is how it IS wired internally.
mainly what i need to know is what SHOULD happen when i press the horn button. I think it should complete the circuit yellow to ground to energize the relay to sound the horn while the blue wire does "nothing". it would makes sense this way if the horn relay was bad and IT was shorting out.
Justin
anyway, here's what else i've done. I found the actual horn relay and unplugged it. I still have +12V on the yellow wire. when the relay is installed i have continuity from black to blue, but when i take the relay out I have a resistance reading of about 150ohms from blue to ground.
the horn still beeps by completing the blue to yellow connection.
I'm liking the idea of the no power to the cruise module. The horn worked until i dropped the column out of the truck to swap over to a manual pedal assemply. There's a good chance something could have gotten tangled up down there.
BUT i'm still confused by Franklin2's description. From his response, pushing the horn button should complete the circuit from blue to black to sound the horn. The button definitely completes the yellow/black circuit, which is how it IS wired internally.
mainly what i need to know is what SHOULD happen when i press the horn button. I think it should complete the circuit yellow to ground to energize the relay to sound the horn while the blue wire does "nothing". it would makes sense this way if the horn relay was bad and IT was shorting out.
Justin
Last edited by hoxiii; Sep 23, 2007 at 10:07 PM.
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