Expedition exhaust manifold problem
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Expedition exhaust manifold problem
I own a 2002 Expy with a 5.4 liter that started making a tapping sound from the passengers side of the motor when cold. As the motor warms up the sound diminishes. Took it to my Ford dealer to find that two studs had rusted away on the back of the manifold and that the manifold cracked. The dealer told me that the parts alone were almost 2000.00. The truck has 68000 miles and is garage kept. The manifold looks like it has been in salt water for ten years and the bolts that are still there dont look too good either. Is this a common problem or am I just lucky? Would any one reccomend headers as a replacement and if so could you give me the names of quality headers. Dont need any type of performance gains but I can get a set of headers alot cheaper than one exhaust manifold. Thanks
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Johnstown, PA
We had a similar problem on my wife's '97. The problem happened at about 90k. I was going to go the same route with the headers but she found a local indy to do the job. I think they charged her something like $800 for the job.
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Expedition exhaust manifold problem
I had a similar situation with my 1993 F-150 with a 5.0L at 88,000 miles. That quote seems way high but it is a dealer you're speaking of. I found I could get the parts online much cheaper and better quality, too. For my truck, there is a recognized design flaw in the exhaust manifolds and some of the replacement parts were supposedly better designed and of better quality. For example, the dealer quoted me about $230 per manifold and about $500 for labor ~ that's still way under what your guy told you.
I found the manifolds online (check out JEGS or Summit or another online source) for about $125 each and found an independent shop who did the job for about $350. I actually went with Flowtech shorty headers which were about $150 more but I have been pleased. The headers gave me a boost in power which I have enjoyed. If I had it to do over, I'd get the Ford Racing Performance Headers along with a Percy's Seal for Good soft aluminum gasket and Ford Racing Locking Header bolts.
Just my experience and my opinion.......good luck.
I found the manifolds online (check out JEGS or Summit or another online source) for about $125 each and found an independent shop who did the job for about $350. I actually went with Flowtech shorty headers which were about $150 more but I have been pleased. The headers gave me a boost in power which I have enjoyed. If I had it to do over, I'd get the Ford Racing Performance Headers along with a Percy's Seal for Good soft aluminum gasket and Ford Racing Locking Header bolts.
Just my experience and my opinion.......good luck.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Planet Earth
2001 Expedition 5.4L here. 1 year ago I had 2 rusted manifold bolts. Ford Garage is the best place to take a problem like that since there are so many sensors on the Expedition now. The job required removing the manifold, drilling out the bolts, drilling out another bolt that broke off doing the job and replacing the manifold with a new one. total job was $638.00. I havent had any trouble out of it since. Hope you get it fixed.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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From: 0,0,1
It can happen at any time. $800 is a fair price if they're doing both sides, but not if they're doing only one side.
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I have a ticking noise as well coming from the passenger side when cold. It doesn't even take a full warm up to make it go away, only about a minute of driving or sitting running and the ticking goes away. I have seen numerous threads about similar issues and getting headers or new manifolds fixes it. I looked at mine and it looks like one stud is broken off (passenger side, top, rear). It makes sense to fix this so I will.
However, I do have a question. I would like to know how a leaky exhaust manifold actually causes a tick only when the truck is first started up. It seems like if it's leaking, it should leak all the time.
My ticking is pretty loud, speeds up with engine rpm, and abruptly goes away when I've had the engine running the requisite amount of time (30 seconds to a minute).
Given that I have a broken stud, I'm inclined to put some short headers on it, but I'm afraid even after that I'll still have the ticking (if it's something else -- like a lifter). I have a 2000 XLT with the 5.4.
However, I do have a question. I would like to know how a leaky exhaust manifold actually causes a tick only when the truck is first started up. It seems like if it's leaking, it should leak all the time.
My ticking is pretty loud, speeds up with engine rpm, and abruptly goes away when I've had the engine running the requisite amount of time (30 seconds to a minute).
Given that I have a broken stud, I'm inclined to put some short headers on it, but I'm afraid even after that I'll still have the ticking (if it's something else -- like a lifter). I have a 2000 XLT with the 5.4.
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Fleet Owner
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The manifolds are metal and expand from the heat. Since the manifolds cannot expand away from the cylinder head due to the remaining studs holding it in place, it expands inward which closes the gap/leak.
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2000 expedition-passenger side manifold replacement. I did this ****ty job this way. You can't really get to the bottom Studs that easy+nuts are so rusted.
1. I have SAWZALL IT into 3 sections and then sawzall these 3 sections off. Luckily for me 2 studs were broken towards the back so I didn't have to monkey around with them 2. Try to undo some studs, they will come out, some of them will some will not.
3. Studs are hard to break but need to be reasonable with force. There is a tool YOU MUST HAVE before starting this job (Part Number TTN-16023) Titan Stud Extractor. It really works. I have tried other "prof Sets" for $50 that crap doesn't work.
4. If some studs doesn't come out cut the NUT with a dremel tool and take the remaining part of the manifold out ones you take all pieces of the manifold off, it's time for a Titan Stud Extractor to do the work.
5. To cut 2 bolts that connects manifold to exhaust pipe I used dremel tool and a small disk.
Good luck, ****ty job I will never do again!!! lol
I have purchased manifold from Rock Auto for $60 some which came with gaskets, studs and 3 studs for the exhaust. Complete package. Dealer charges $8 per one stud!!!
Good luck
1. I have SAWZALL IT into 3 sections and then sawzall these 3 sections off. Luckily for me 2 studs were broken towards the back so I didn't have to monkey around with them 2. Try to undo some studs, they will come out, some of them will some will not.
3. Studs are hard to break but need to be reasonable with force. There is a tool YOU MUST HAVE before starting this job (Part Number TTN-16023) Titan Stud Extractor. It really works. I have tried other "prof Sets" for $50 that crap doesn't work.
4. If some studs doesn't come out cut the NUT with a dremel tool and take the remaining part of the manifold out ones you take all pieces of the manifold off, it's time for a Titan Stud Extractor to do the work.
5. To cut 2 bolts that connects manifold to exhaust pipe I used dremel tool and a small disk.
Good luck, ****ty job I will never do again!!! lol
I have purchased manifold from Rock Auto for $60 some which came with gaskets, studs and 3 studs for the exhaust. Complete package. Dealer charges $8 per one stud!!!
Good luck
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