when buying a short block..... you should?

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Old 01-22-2013, 05:52 PM
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when buying a short block..... you should?

Hey there FE fans I have a chance to pick up a 390 short block that its sealed never been started, the block has been bored .020 i don't know if it was decked or not yet, waiting for the reply. He knows its a semi aggressive cam, but the paperwork has been misplaced, there is paperwork on it being balanced tho.
 
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:00 AM
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first thing i'd check is stroke , make sure it is a 390
then i'd want to know the cam , most aftermarket cams have numbers stamped on the front . so remove the timing cover and google what you find .
then of course check cylinders and bottom end
 
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Old 01-23-2013, 05:14 PM
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The pan is about 6" deep by the width of the block and is a front sump design. Also about half the length of the block for the drop. what kind of oil pans would fit on a 75 F250?
 
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Old 01-30-2013, 09:11 PM
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Cam can be defined/degreed with a little effort but not likely to happen on sale day. Curious what color the pan is... I sold a 390 SB about 6 mo ago, located in so cal OC, black block 65', gold oil pan. Don't recall giving them the balance specs but may have CRS. If bal specs are from R&R Machine in Costa Mesa, I know the rest..
 
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Old 01-31-2013, 04:46 PM
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Always double check bore and stroke..on sale day..they always turn into what there not just for a sale...! Ehhh cam...you'll probably want toss it unless it meets your trans and gearing and tire size ! and the kind of driving your foing ? JMO !! Take it with a grain of salt !

Good Luck !
 
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:08 PM
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Do you know who the rebuilder was?. There are a lot of cheapo engine rebuilders. I've known two people in the last few years who have bought cheap auto parts store rebuilds and both had thrust bearing failures. They just slap them together with air guns.
 
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Old 01-31-2013, 07:44 PM
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All of the above but also... If they allow you, remove the oil pan and look for play in the rod bearings. As you rotate the assembly, make sure everything is smooth and all pistons come up the same height; checking for bent rods. Also look for wear in the cylinder walls and such. If it wasnt machined or at least honed then there are questions. There shouldnt be a lip at the top of the cylinder; it may have been honed when it should have been machined. A lot can be said about details like freeze plugs and such as well. If its not like new... Any little thing... The price goes down.
 
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Old 02-02-2013, 11:48 AM
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If they don't give you the oppurtunity to check it out to your satisfaction, I'd walk away. Ask questions just to see how forthcoming they are with responses or info. If they fiddle around with your questions before they answer, it's a good chance theyt are hiding something. Crank and block are the most important items, the others can be replaced fairly cheaply but you probably don't want to go there either.
 
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