391
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 4
From: West Union, OH USA
391
thanks for the replys everyone. i tore that 391 apart and it had water in the cylinders. some retard took the carb off and the truck didn't have a hood on it either. its locked pretty good. the block does not seem to be cracked anywhere though. i think the carb had only been off for about a year. don't worry though i didn't pay much for it. it looks like a jasper rebuild. the guy i bought it off of mumbled something about the motor being put in the truck new. i think i can save the block. i'm going to measure the cylinders to see if they have been bored over and find the casting numbers and see if any of you can tell me what year it is. the truck was a 76;-)
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 4
From: West Union, OH USA
391
it doesnt look like it has been bored over or anything, but what numbers do i have to find to tell what year the motor is? is it the ones under the oil filter:-X11
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 962
Likes: 2
From: Collierville, TN
391
That would be the part code, not the casting date. The code is indeed on the passenger side, and will be "LNLL-L", where L is a letter and N is a number. My block, for instance, is a C7ME-A, the "C7" indicating that the design was released for production in 1967.
The casting date is stamped on a boss just below the oil filter adapter mounting point. It will either be "NLN" or "NLNN". Mine, for instance, is "9F9", which means it was cast on June 9, 1969.
The casting date is stamped on a boss just below the oil filter adapter mounting point. It will either be "NLN" or "NLNN". Mine, for instance, is "9F9", which means it was cast on June 9, 1969.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
391
I am positive that some of them can. Back in the day core shift was a big issue when blocks were cast. Some were cast very well others were a little off. You can have cylinder walls extremely thick on one side and extremely thin on the other. You need to have the block sonic checked to know for sure. There is not 1 single 390 block in existence that you can look at and guarantee it will go .080 over. I would have to say about 50% of the FT blocks or the 73 - 76 blocks can from what people have said here.
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,191
Likes: 4
From: West Union, OH USA
391
i took the main caps off and the crank looks good but i cant get all the connecting rod bolts off to take the crank out because its locked up. what do you guys suggests. i can get them all off but two. and i can get one of each. man this sucks please help
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
391
To get the rod caps off take a broom handle and cut it off to about 2 feet in length. Put one end down into the bottom of the piston and carefully tap the piston towards the top of the block. Be careful as not to scratch the crank journals as you get them to separate. I assume you didn't meant the engine is locked up?? In this case you will have to carefully tap the cap off with a small prybar and a hammer. Once again be careful not to damage anything and don't let frustration get you carried away.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,624
Likes: 8
From: Missouri
391
Wait I just reread your post. You said you can't get the rod bolts off. Did you mean the cap and not the bolts? The nuts should come right off with no problems. I have never seen a stubborn rod cap nut since they are getting covered in oil their whole life. Try and explain what is going on a little better so I can clearly understand your situation.
