Well, I have had mine over 80mph on the drag strip. Of course it sucks at the turnaround when you forget to shift out of 4x4.

You should be able to get under there when it is out of 4x4 and turn both front axles feely by hand.

 

I got the transfer case out just a little while ago. Took about an hour, what you need is 12mm 12pt wrench for the rear driveshaft, and a 1/2wrench for the 6 bolts on the back of the transfer case, easy enough.

Here are some pics with it out of the truck:






Now I just need to price out a t-case and front driveshaft.

 

I was thinking about this thread today while driving (usual thinking time) You said only one hub was locked in, what was your Tcase set at? 2wd? 4wd? If your tcase was in 2wd, and only one hub was locked in, then you may have more issues then you thougth, and may want to open up your front diff. I say this because if only one hub is locked in, it should just spin the spiders, and the carrier not move (it should spin the axle shaft on the other side, and not the driveshaft because it is "easier" to spin just the spiders, and shafts, then the whole carrier, and drive shaft) If you run long enough with only one hub locked in, you can actually damage your front differential, when just the spiders are spinning, your carrier and ring gear are not "slinging" your oil inside the case, and therefore are not putting the oil were it needs to be, and ultimately can lead to seal, and bearing/spider gear failure. Alot of people will tell you its "okay to run with only one hub locked in" But its really not. UNLESS you have a spool, or possibly a limited slip (which could cause excessive wear to the clutches) because it would turn both shafts, and the carrier, and thus "sling" the oil to were it needs to be, there is no oil pump, and the ring gear and carrier do all the work for moving oil. Hopefully you dont have any damage there, but you better look.

Also, I know in other new process model transfercases IE np208, np241, and similar ones, if the chain stretches too much, it will actually jump teeth, but it does not damage the case (ask me how i know) But I dont know if that is also the case on this model of transfercase. Also, this wouldnt be the case though if the tcase was in 2wd.

 

When the tow truck hooked up the truck, the one side was still engaged and we were trying to get it out, just pushing it back and forth. But I will be checking the front axle for any possible damage in the diff. Crosses finger.
And it was set to 2wd.

And there is evidence that the chain was jumping over the sprocket, it was one of those things that you can't predict. Time to upgrade.

 

Can you even upgrade our transfer cases, without going really custom? I thought our cases (NP 271, correct?) were the strongest case that the company makes.

 

I think with a little JB WELD you could put that back together no problem! An atlas II is a universal T-case that alot of people use in hard core off-road rigs. http://www.atlas-tc.com/ You can even get an extreme low range, around 6:1. There not cheap, but you will never need one again.

 

I would put money on a bad u-joint i seen it happen first hand on a dodge dakota. (front end always locked in) had a bad u joint and did even worse damage. Hate to see stuff like this happens and i hope you get back on the road soon.
Billy

 

The units they put in our trucks are pretty stout, I know they run them in the newer dodge heavy duty trucks too, however IMO they did make better ones in the older trucks, that had cast iron housings (np203 was chain drive and the np205 was all gear, both had cast iron cases) Heavy as all get out, but nearly indestructable.


I know they say they are the toughest and the best, but when considering this option, or even the staks, youd better make sure they are rated for the torque that we produce. Ive briefly looked at both, and they dont seem to provide input torque ratings. Just something you would want to find out before you took the plunge on a 2k+ transfercase

 

When my TC gave up for different reasons, I priced a new unit and it was around $1500.00, so $2k for a stronger one isn't that much more.

 

I THINK THE CASE EXPLODED WHEN THE FRONT SHAFT DROPPED, HIT FRAME OR SOMETHING ELSE. YOU TORE THE FRONT WHEEL DRIVE OUT OF TRANSFERCASE. i WOULD SAY EITHER THE FRONT AXLE BOUND UP OR FRONT DRIVESHAFT BROKE AND TOOK OUT THAT PART OF YOUR TRANSCASE. LUCKILY YOU DIDN'T LOOSE MORE. YOU SHOULD ATLEAST TAKE OFF FRONT DIFF COVER AND CHECK OUT SPIDER GEARS. ONCE I HAD ONE HUB LOCKED AND I GOT A WEIRD VIBRATION. I PULLED OVER AND UNLOCKED IT AND EVERYTHING SEEMS FINE.

 

This talk about driving around with hubs unknowingly locked got me to look at mine.

Everything but the little drilled "dot" is gone on mine. There's no other indication at all, though there's supposed to be some kind of "arrow". The owner's manual indicates that with auto-hubs, the usual operation is in the AUTO position.

That means rotated fully clockwise, doesn't it?

I found both of mine fully counter-clockwise, indicating engaged, right?

Would someone with their markings still intact go look and verify this for me?

Thanks!!

Pop

 

Pops, All the way to the left = Auto All the way to the right = lock on my hubs.

 

Same here. Turned counter clockwise is Auto. Clockwise is manually locked. One of mine barely has the writing, but it's legible, and the dot. The dot is nex to the Auto mark. I've also verified the direction of lock by jacking up the front and checking the lock and auto position of the hubs by watching the axle turn.

 

ok so what transfer cases will bolt up to our trucks?like if i go to a junk yard and i can pull a part myself but they dont have many trucks,what trucks can i salvage a transfer case from and put under my truck?which ones are strongest?im building my truck more for reliability than anything but may need a new transfer case.i have an 02 f250 also what years have the same case?if i found an 05 f25 can i use that case.