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i got a chipped turbo compressor wheel and i know it needs either rebuilt or replaced my ?'s are how much power am i losing now and how much longer can i run the truck without it hurting it???? i know i need to fix it just wondering on what are my best opions i would love to get the turbo from beans but it's a little expensive and from what i've read it won't do nothing without injectors so what's my best bet how hard is it to rebuild or should i go to the ebay turbo guy? if i do rebuild should i get the SD compressor wheel or go stock? i got the 1.10 a/h now... the truck can't be down for more the a weekend.... please help
Well as far as how long, performance losses, etc., goes it all depends on how big of a chip were talkin here. The smaller the chip outta the blades the less noticeable basically. The compressor wheel you have know is what your gonna wanna go with when you get it rebuilt. The SD wheels are junk. You might look into going with a 1.0ar exhaust housing when you rebuild the turbo. Provides quicker spool ups, so on and so fourth. Some drawbacks of the 1.0 housing is higher drive pressures and higher EGT's but the performance is there. If your going with a rebuyild, Ron's the guy to talk to. he's the ebay guy who does a phenomenal job with these turbo's. Good luck!
as far as i know its a combination, the guts are the same but it would be considered better if you call a different housing an upgrade
and also he is rebuilding them not some hoodlum on an assembly line waiting for 5:00 to roll around, plus you cant beat his price and the warrnety is untouchable too
do you have any pictures? what are you calling chipped? are there fins missing or large chunks gone or is there a tiny spec missing out of the corner edge of a blade? it all depends on how bad it looks. if all of the blades are toast then chances are there is some sort of engine damage, a crankcase pressure test is an easy way to tell the extent of any damage. normally a dusted turbo leads to dusted cylinder walls resulting in more blowby. the crankcase pressure test isnt hard you just need the adapter that screws onto your oil fill port and a 10 inch\water gauge. plug the ccv and start the truck up, the gauge will idealy be 0 but i believe 2 inches is max for a 7.3, the ford dealer will have the adapter and the test takes 5 minutes to do so the most you should spend is 35 bucks or a half hours labor.
most places want to charge a fortune for a compression test on the diesel but its a waste of time if you know youo have turbo fin damage, the crankcase pressure test will tell you if there is excessive blow by it just wont tell you which cylinders are worse. but at that point why do you need to know which one? you need to rebuild at that time any way. its a fast easy effective test to tell you if the bottom end of your engine is good or bad, thats it
the outside blades are a little worse but not all of them and the blade on the right side of the pic doesn't have whatever that make is in the middle of the blade just on the every corners and and the outside of the compressor wheel are they chipped i think what happened is there is a piece of plastic missing out of my stock intake that has been patched with expoy and it got sucked in by the turbo and chipped a few of the blades
eww that doesnt sound good for the turbo but if it sucked a piece of plastic in then that could be good for your motor, odds are the turbo baldes are all that got damaged
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