Recently I posted a plea for help on a rear end vibration I could not get rid of since I have owned the truck. After lowering my truck front and rear that made it even worse, so bad I couldn't drive it over 20mph. I removed the rear end, cut off the spring perches and mounted new ones at the proper angle to match the angle of the tranny. The jig that I built made it a breeze in fact it was so easy I did it twice. The first time I bought a set of leaf spring perches from my local speed shop and didn't realize they were wider than the stock ones. When I jacked er up in place and tried to slip the ubolts on, well it wasn't pretty and I felt like an idiot. Ordered another set from MF proper width and reintalled. Went for a test drive and it has never riden so smooth. Like I told my buddy, Why do it just once when I can do the same thing so much better the second time, LOL.......

 

U joints just won't tollerate being much out of alignment or phase. Glad you got it worked out!

 

You discovered my secret!!!

Actually, it was John Niolon that hipped to this fool proof methodology of doing everything twice.

 

Heres another tip. Speedway motors sells 2 degree and 4 degree angle shims for lowering blocks. You can use these to help out your pinion angle on a lowering job without cutting off the perches

 

As does Mid Fifty in the correct width for our springs. If you use shims, be sure the centerbolt head is long enough to still firmly index into the axle perch (you REALLY don't want the axle to suddenly shift while going down the road it would definitely spoil your day!), if not MF also sells centerbolts with extended heads as well.

 

Joe- Good thing you got it straightened out. Time to go cruisin at 80 mph LOL..
Randy - My methodology is to do it once, but take 6 months or more to do it and make sure you have a minimum of 30 posts on that subject.

 

I think I just started the same thing today Ed. I removed the passenger rear fender of my truck after dialysis in order to start stripping it (tomorrow if weather cooperates). I have the epoxy primer and some of the supplies to get it that far.

With me....this could take literally years to do the whole truck. Prabably thousands of posts.

Will it anger anyone if I said I had it off in about 20 minutes? No torch, no impact, just a ratchet, some sockets, and a couple of wrenches.

I dropped the bolts, nuts, and washers in an old butter bowl and put the lid on so I would not lose them. Mom and dad have been saving old ones for me for a long time.

There appears to be no rust inside or out. I do need to fix some welds that the PO did. Not that they show, but I am a welder and I know they are there.

 

Isn't it nice to work on solid sheet metal? I am SOOOO glad Gracie has such solid metal as well.

 

No Kidding! I am so thankful to everyone here who advised me to find the straightest, most rust free body I could possibly afford.

Then Tacson actually found it for me.

What more can a truck guy ask for?

 

Only twice????

Shoot, I'm such a practiced master in these arts that I generally have to do things 5 or 6 times to achieve the same results.

Glad you got it all worked out!
Boby

 

Well guys looks like I spoke to soon. Took the truck out thursday night and all seemed fine. I did however get up to speed rather quickly when testing. Went back out Saturday morning and got up to speed much slower and damned if it is still has the shimmy. If I get up to speed quickly it does not shimmy as bad very faint. So, all the suspension is new, pins, king pins, bushings, drive shaft has been balanced, rear tranny bushing and seal is new. Changed the tires to an old set and still does the same thing at the same speed. The only thing I have left is the offset of the motor to check. There is an offset and I have not checked that yet. I have to check the pinion angle horizontally, have already fixed it vertically. If it is out of tolerance do I need to start moving motor mounts or what??? Maybe the third time will be a charm. Gotta laugh to keep from cussin.........

 

i find myself rationalizing my learning experiences by saying:

if it's not not worth doing twice, it's not worth doing.

 

Joe - Hey, if this is now a SLIGHT shimmy, and only when you increase speed slowly, I suggest you just call it good enough and punch it from each light!!!

 

Aaahhh yes, nothin' like the smell of tire smoke in the morning

Look on the bright side, you've managed to get it down to a slight shimmy

Bobby

 

The problem still remains at 50mph and if I hold it there is is uncomfortable and probably tearing something up over time. Yes I can power passed it but you do feel it at any speed above fifty. I gotta get this smoothed out and the only thing I have left to check is the engine offset. Holding at 50mph it still feels the same.