When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Have a no charge condition. Have a new alternator and new starter. Battery volts 12.58 not running; 12.01 running.
Read all the posts that I could find on testing the alternator but am not sure exactly how to translate these test to this particular alternator. Please help.
Just got back with the alternator when I didn't know what else to do. They said it tested okay. I put it back on and checked the O/Bk connections and they have 12.4v same as the battery. Running the G/Rd wire has slightly lower 12.1v
and the Y/Bk wire has still lower 11.8v. I'm really stumped and don't know what to do next.
I can't believe I can't get any help on this site. Is it because Ford's are just junk? I've posted a couple times and got the obvious answer and that's it! Is this a FMC front? Is everyone on the FMC payroll? All to con us into thinking a piece of junk Ford can be Fixed! Ha! Ha! I guess I'm a fool again!
Last edited by Ezee4U2C; Sep 13, 2007 at 05:05 PM.
Reason: spelling
Sorry, I volunteer to do this with no pay, and I have to work for a living.
I think your type alternator is famous for melting the plugs. I would check them very carefully to make sure they are not melted, causing a bad connection. All the voltages look ok, except you should have around 14 volts on the battery when the engine is running.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.