I've been reading all I could with no success. I know the knowledge is here for an answer. My 87 F150 sat most of the summer due to my illness. When It was cranked couple weeks ago it ran so rough I got it to my local mech. After the usual plugs,wires, rotor and cap, plus a TPS it runs ok. However when my mech. called me he asked if I had any trans. problems, it freewheeled in OD and would not go into high at all. I had noticed months ago that it changed slow sometimes when in OD but no problem otherwise. When I drove it to the shop there were no shifting problems even though the engine was skipping badly. This mech. is a neighbor whom I have known most of my life. He doesn't do trans. work. Could there be some module or switch or linkage that would cause my problem or am I screwed. Don't think I can afford a trans overhaul. I love my old truck, don't need it every day but don't know how to get along without it. I couldn't sell it for what a trans. rebuild would cost.
It is a 87 F150 with 5.0 EFI The trans. is AOD. It has about 175000 not hard miles. I've only driven 3-4000 for the last several years. Never towed anything.I would be grateful for any advice.

 

After the TPS swap, did he unhook the battery to reset the computer? Still sounds like the TPS is bad.

 

Thanks for the reply. I can tell he didn't so I unhooked it and no change. I left it off couple mins. Is that enough? Any way I can check the TPS myself? Thanks again for your help. jim

 

the aod trans is completely manual and doesn't rely on anything electronic to work. most likely, if its never been serviced in its life, the od band is shot, or nearly so. but after sitting awhile with old fluid and filter, etc, you prolly have a stuck servo or shift valve in your valve body. wouldn't hurt to do a fluid and filter change. do the first 3 shifts seem normal? smooth? or hard?

 

Even in D it only shifts one time, run up to 40-45 mph won't shift from there at all, but smooth shift the first time. Also shifts once when in OD, but then goes freewheel. Sounds bad doesn't it. Thanks for the reply. jt

 

so you're saying it starts out in 1st and only shifts to 2nd? if you start out in d, its the same as starting in od. the only difference is in d, you only go thru 3 gears, in od, will shift to 4th after about 40. or does it start out, and not shift to 2nd, and freewheel?

 

Sorry for being so vague. In OD it freewheels after one change. In D it will just stay in 2nd. So it only shifts once.

 

still kinda vague... its a 4 speed transmission when you count overdrive. are you saying you start out in first, it will shift to second and then freewheel? or does it start out and stay there and freewheel. you can't get to od unless you went thru all 3 gears. you shouldn't notice any difference in takeoff between d and od. the 1st 3 shifts are the same.
just for fun, look at the throttlebody cable connections. one is your throttle, which is connected to the tbody. on top is a cable that goes to your transmission (tv cable) which regulates the pressure that operates your trans. make sure it is connected and the little plastic piece that connects it isn't broke. if it is connected, make sure your mechanic didn't make any adjustments to it. if its broke, don't drive it til you fix it.

 

When I am saying OD I mean the the gear shift indicator. You are right it never gets to overdrive speed because after the first shift it just freewheels. When I use D, the gearshift indicator, it will shift once and stay there. If I shift back up to the OD slot its like pushing the clutch in on a straight drive, nothing there. So what I am missing I guess, is 3rd , and not going there it never gets to the 4th, or overdrive. I will check the cable tomorrow. I am also confused about which trans. this is. I have tried many sites in my searching and its still not clear to me. The gearshift indicator shows positions for OD, D, and L. The sticker on the door post has an "I" or a "1" as the trans. type, the print is a little unclear. I can't find anything to tell me for sure, there seems to be several trans. types with different controls. One thing for AOD and different for E4OD. I cant find anything with a "1" or "I". This truck is an XLT with EFI. It was a loaded truck for its model year. I can't imagine that it would not have the top line trans. also, whichever one it would be. I've had it about 11 years. I just did a quick count and I have owned at least 16 fords in my life and never had a trans. problem. Guess its about time. Thank you again for your help.

 

if its an aod, the shifter will say p,n,od,d,L. an e4od wil be p,n,od,2,L and will have a button on the end of the shifter for od off. you can also count the bolts on the pan, aod is around 12, e4od is 20.
when you start in d, you say it will shift to second?
if the cable is attached and has not been disturbed (it is springloaded in the clamp about 4" back from the plastic mounting clip, and that clamp should not move unless you pop the clamping clip up, which is hard to do without meaning to) but your symptoms sound like either a disconnected cable or a stuck servo. either one should be an easy fix unless you drive it the way it is til it burns up.

 

The clamp was loose, plastic clip was pryed back but seemed to be attached although loosely. I tightened it up a little and it seems to be attached ok. No change in shifting. I have driven about 1/2 mile up the road and back at slow speed, not over 40-45 to test. What can I do about the servo? I really appreciate all the time you are taking to help me.

 

you say the clamp was loose? is that the white bell-shaped piece at the end or the black pry up piece at the cable mounting bracket? this link may explain what it looks like and how to adjust it without a pressure gage and spacer block, which is the preferred way. http://www.txchange.com/aodadj.htm
yours is the first example.
if its the stuck servo, you can pull the pan and filter (if there is a bunch of shrapnel and burny things in the pan you might consider a rebuild or replacement) and after you clean yourself up from the atf bath, pull the valve body and shifter roller down. keep it clean. there are either 3 or 4 round cylinders that have pistons held in by circlips. 4 if you have the older style valve body and 3 if newer (87 was the change year). one by one pull the circlip while holding the cover plate (some are spring loaded), remove cover and make sure the piston inside moves up and down freely. if not, try to remove it without killing it, clean it up, douse it in clean atf and reinstall, being careful not to damage the seal. reinstall the covers and valve body (try to get a new gasket for the vb thats thicker to try and compensate for vb warpage), new filter and pan gasket and fluid. wouldn't hurt to drain the torque converter while you're in there.