Sheet metal install
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Sheet metal install
I know I've seen some posts regarding the overall install and alignment of the total body on a 55.
I am in the final setup before paint, and just realized that the front clip is offset about 1 in back on the right side. (or 1/2 in back on the right, 1/2 up on the left).. the radiator shell is cocked to the right as well, just that little bit.
I noticed this really when we put the clip back on this weekend after me working on the firewall (filling holes), etc..
the gravel pan was hitting aginst the cutoff frame bumper horn.. maybe it was before we took the clip off too..
anyhow, cut another inch off the horns, and voila, everything installed without tugging and fighting, but..
I replaced the cab floor front section, but didn't replace the mount arms. so the bolt holes are in the same place as before. I did a volare clip, but measured the heck out if it before welding.
the clue is that the right front tire is forward in the wheel opening 1 in as compared to the left side. (measured from fender edges to wheel center).
I have not had the front end aligned yet.
I am using new body mounts and rear arms.
advice welcomed..
Sam
I am in the final setup before paint, and just realized that the front clip is offset about 1 in back on the right side. (or 1/2 in back on the right, 1/2 up on the left).. the radiator shell is cocked to the right as well, just that little bit.
I noticed this really when we put the clip back on this weekend after me working on the firewall (filling holes), etc..
the gravel pan was hitting aginst the cutoff frame bumper horn.. maybe it was before we took the clip off too..
anyhow, cut another inch off the horns, and voila, everything installed without tugging and fighting, but..
I replaced the cab floor front section, but didn't replace the mount arms. so the bolt holes are in the same place as before. I did a volare clip, but measured the heck out if it before welding.
the clue is that the right front tire is forward in the wheel opening 1 in as compared to the left side. (measured from fender edges to wheel center).
I have not had the front end aligned yet.
I am using new body mounts and rear arms.
advice welcomed..
Sam
Last edited by sdetweil; Sep 11, 2007 at 08:13 AM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,644
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From: Moro Bay, AR
Sam, check to see if your cab is sitting straight on the frame. When I sat my 53 cab back on, I tightened the mounting bolts and then discovered that the front cap wouldn't line up. After loosening the cab mounts and twisting it on the frame, everything fit as it should.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Hate to ask the obvious, but did you measure the wheelbase on both sides after you welded in the clip to be sure nothing moved? Did you measure from the door opening to the rear edge of the fenders to see if the fenders are really 1" offset? I can't imagine how they could be offset that much and still bolt to the cowl, and the hood align? Also measure from the firewall to the ends of the radiator support to verify it is cocked that much. I hope I'm wrong, but I think you might have a serious problem.
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Originally Posted by AXracer
Hate to ask the obvious, but did you measure the wheelbase on both sides after you welded in the clip to be sure nothing moved? Did you measure from the door opening to the rear edge of the fenders to see if the fenders are really 1" offset? I can't imagine how they could be offset that much and still bolt to the cowl, and the hood align? Also measure from the firewall to the ends of the radiator support to verify it is cocked that much. I hope I'm wrong, but I think you might have a serious problem.
the hood back edge looks great with the cowl. the right side hood line appears square all the way down the hood/fender. on the drivers side, the front edge of the gap is wider than the rear edge, so there appears the be a slight twist towards the right.
Both fenders rear bolt holes line up perfectly, without any pulling, so it appears to be a cab twist on the frame.. I'll go measure cab to rad support.
I do NOT know if this cab was original on this frame.
as for 'serious problem', I have been awake most of the night.
Sam
Last edited by sdetweil; Sep 11, 2007 at 08:48 AM.
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From: Pflugerville, tx
so, I measured from the firewall to the rad support top valence
on the drivers side, to the edge of the valence by the cross rod braket is 36.5
on the passenger side it is 36 (and 1/16).. so about 1/2 in diff.
At the rad support uprights, its like 1/3 inch difference left to right.
criss cross from the hinge support to the outer bolt on the cross rod support
passenger firewall to drivers side is 63.25, (1/4), drivers firewall to passenger side is 63.125 (1/8)
back of front fender to front door edge,
passenger is 1 7/8, driver is 1 3/4.
I have not used the support rods yet.
Sam
on the drivers side, to the edge of the valence by the cross rod braket is 36.5
on the passenger side it is 36 (and 1/16).. so about 1/2 in diff.
At the rad support uprights, its like 1/3 inch difference left to right.
criss cross from the hinge support to the outer bolt on the cross rod support
passenger firewall to drivers side is 63.25, (1/4), drivers firewall to passenger side is 63.125 (1/8)
back of front fender to front door edge,
passenger is 1 7/8, driver is 1 3/4.
I have not used the support rods yet.
Sam
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Sam;
Are you able to use a square or T-squre, on front end get a reference line rail to rail, then measure to a fixed point on either rail, say spring mounts or similar point ?
This may indicate whether the frame is square.
Tom
Are you able to use a square or T-squre, on front end get a reference line rail to rail, then measure to a fixed point on either rail, say spring mounts or similar point ?
This may indicate whether the frame is square.
Tom
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
I'd suggest going ahead and measuring the wheelbase just to verify and give peace of mind. Nothing else so far is measuring off any significant amount. Lastly measure the fenders to be sure one wheel opening is located differently than the other, stranger things have happened.
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Ok,
the wheel base is with 1/4 inch on each side at 112in, again not aligned, so cater/camber are off for sure.
I pulled the front body mount bolt, loosened all the fender, cowl, air damn, etc bolts, and was able to shift the body up right, back left about 1/2 in.
now the wheel opening is within 1/2 in. toe is not adjusted, wo it is hard to tell where the wheel is straight ahead.
the fender openings are different by 1/2 in, so that adds to the fun.
the front fender lip to tire edge is 1/4in different , back is 6 1/2 in on one side, 6 3/4 in the other.
so, I think I am alright.. I have to redrill the body mount hole in the left mount arm after the adjustments.
Sam
the wheel base is with 1/4 inch on each side at 112in, again not aligned, so cater/camber are off for sure.
I pulled the front body mount bolt, loosened all the fender, cowl, air damn, etc bolts, and was able to shift the body up right, back left about 1/2 in.
now the wheel opening is within 1/2 in. toe is not adjusted, wo it is hard to tell where the wheel is straight ahead.
the fender openings are different by 1/2 in, so that adds to the fun.
the front fender lip to tire edge is 1/4in different , back is 6 1/2 in on one side, 6 3/4 in the other.
so, I think I am alright.. I have to redrill the body mount hole in the left mount arm after the adjustments.
Sam
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From: Durham NC
like I said stranger things have happened! Stamping dies wore, were repaired, were replaced with new ones, all were hand made. Different stamping plants used different dies, replacement parts were stamped on dies well past their prime (some are still in use today!) All quality checking was done with hand operated measuring tools, jigs or by eye. These were trucks after all, work vehicles that were purchased for their load carrying capabilities and durability not for beauty or concern about fit and finish. They seldom got a bath except for rainstorms.
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Before you do anything major, You need to measure the wheel base length on both sides as recommended above. You then need to measure and X pattern between the left front to the right rear and right front to the left rear. They should measure equal to within 1/4" and no more than 1/2" at the max. This is the easiest method to define whether the frame and suspension is square. The frame can be a little out of square but the running gear must be square or you will be driving down the road like a crab and other bad things will happen also. The frame and running gear also need to be "flat" or it will not drive correctly and no safe. Keep us posted.
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