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help my pos barely idles

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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 01:44 AM
  #1  
rollnhvy's Avatar
rollnhvy
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help my pos barely idles

1987 ford f-150 shortbox 4x4 300 cid manual tranny(idles very rough to dies)

checked tps looks good
cleaned iac moves freely
checked timing seems alright
put new plugs in helped but not much
sprayed for leaks cant find anything at this point
Wont idle hot or cold
Idle is very low.
Fuel pump only 3 months old no change by switching tanks
throttle arm not bottoming on stop screw.
Only code was something like 32 for egr and 11 for all clear

I am running out of patience i have put 16 hrs in the last 2 days into this thing and no improvment to speak of.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 04:39 AM
  #2  
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phatpharm85
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From: torrington,ct
adjust up the stop screw till it idles about 800 rpm.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 05:34 AM
  #3  
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mrl390
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From: Venetia, PA
The code 32 indicates a problem with the EVP I believe. I pulled the same code when my truck was idling funny and I replaced the EVP and the problem went way. The EVP is the sensor that is bolted to the top of the EGR valve.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 10:12 AM
  #4  
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rattosh51
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From: St. Paul, MN
If not the EVP check your IAC by pulling the plug...should die pretty quickly, but
since it's not idling well at all now, it may not be working.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 10:24 AM
  #5  
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radialarm
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From: Boyd,TX
If the check engine light is on it's not going to idle or run right. Your'e going to have to clear the codes and fix everything.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 10:40 AM
  #6  
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Skandocious
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Originally Posted by phatpharm85
adjust up the stop screw till it idles about 800 rpm.
I advise against this. I've heard nothing but bad stories from guys who have done this.

I would take care of that EVP right away, it sounds like that is your problem.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 10:50 AM
  #7  
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Skandocious
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Whoops, sorry for the double post, had some issues getting my post up.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 10:57 AM
  #8  
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quicklook2
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
replace iac, cleaning only rarely helps.

do NOT adjust the idle screw.

cap, wires, rotor all are how old?
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 11:13 AM
  #9  
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Skandocious
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
Originally Posted by quicklook2
replace iac, cleaning only rarely helps.
I have to disagree with you here quick... Why advise him to just replace the IAC without even TRYING to clean it? Your post says it rarely helps, maybe this guy will be one of the rare cases, why try to cost this guy another $50 if you don't have to... Cmon...
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 02:27 PM
  #10  
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TheRoadVirus
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From: Orangeville, Ontario
50 bucks? Jeez, where do you get your IAC's from? :P Hook it up. lol.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 02:39 PM
  #11  
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Skandocious
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From: Davis & Newcastle, CA
I was taking a stab in the dark, lol. Lemme have a looksie at what it would REALLY cost...

Found it! Rockauto.com has a Motorcraft IAC for my truck for $53 I was pretty damn close. Although there is ANOTHER Motorcraft IAC on there for $93, not sure what the difference is...
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 06:10 PM
  #12  
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mrl390
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From: Venetia, PA
I steal the IAC valves of the junked 300 i6 F150s at work. They work pretty well. Have one on mine, gave one to my buddy and sold one on ebay. There are some I6s that use the same kind of IAC as the 5.0s, but there are a couple that are different and dont fit in the space beside the throttle body on the 5.0s, but would work otherwise. Cleaning the IAC could help. TAKE THE ACTUAL ELECTRONIC PART OFF THE IAC BEFORE CLEANING THE INSIDE. If you get carb cleaner or strong cleaner of any kind in the electronic part, it will fry it. You wont be able to tell you fried it until your truck doesnt start after the engine cools down. I learned from experience! Anyway, I still wouldnt ignore replacing the EVP, this should help with your problem.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2007 | 10:35 PM
  #13  
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rollnhvy
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after i cleaned my iac the first time i plugged it in and cylcled the ignition and watched the plunger move. A little history of this truck. I got it from a buddy of mine who's uncle died 2 years of go and it used to be his. Being the ford fan that i am i rescued it from a life of sitting in a field. When i picked it up it didnt run at all fuel pump was out. They had been either starting it when the fuel pump was getting weak. I am assuming the arm doesnt rest on the stop screw anymore becuase they previously tryed to adjust it to make it run better. I think the truck has a base idle of like 200 rpms right now. I think i need to adjust the screw back nominal rpm range and then adjust the tps to factory specified voltages for idle to wot.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 12:05 AM
  #14  
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radialarm
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From: Boyd,TX
You need to back off the idle screw until it is clear (the IAC and computer control the idle speed not the screw). I don't think you can adjust the TPS either. You can check to see if the IAC is working easy enough just unplug it while the truck is running it will die if it's good (just because it cycles while it's off doesn't mean it works).
 
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Old Sep 11, 2007 | 03:22 PM
  #15  
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Bertha1
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May want to replace the fuel filter and check pressure on the rail. Maybe you are not getting enough fuel to keep the rpms up?? Is it surging while in idle or does it keep choking out? I believe in ruling out the simple things first! I have an 87 f150 302 5.0 and it should be 33-35 PSI at idle and around 42 PSI WOT for mine. Not sure how different it is for a 300.
 
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