View Poll Results: What killed half of a good engine?
Wrong oil viscosity
0
0%
Overheating/improper break-in
2
6.45%
Lack of oil
2
6.45%
Debris in engine due to unsanitary shop conditions
10
32.26%
Solvent not cleaned off of parts
1
3.23%
UPSIDE DOWN piston installation (all, or part)
6
19.35%
Mis-matched spark plug set
1
3.23%
Water intrusion
7
22.58%
Incorrect fuel
0
0%
More than one part number of spark plug installed
2
6.45%
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll
Blown Engine - What did it?
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
Blown Engine - What did it?
The background for this one is in this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...rt-1600-a.html
Go ahead and review that thread for insights or ideas, and then look back over here.
There is additional input:
The pistons looked almost brand spanking new, with no stuck rings, clean oil, and they were obviously upgraded "MAHLE" brand rings, pistons, and jugs (which are stouter, and can take more abuse).
The rings were so clean - they popped out from the piston lands about an eighth inch and rode smoothly all around the pistons. In fact - they didn't even look as if they had been worn in good yet.
No damage to the piston upper surfaces, but considerable blackening of the piston tops.
No apparent burning of number three exhaust valve, but it was sooted black from incomplete combustion.
*#3 cylinder was where the oil was coming from
Curb side (#'s 1 and 2) cylinders appeared to be clean burning, with normal ash deposit on valve heads.
No evident cracks or leakage of valves or cylinder to head sealing areas.
Valve stems had less than 0.010 side play (they were tight - like new).
Piston slap: Negligable.
Rod end play: Like a new set of rods and wrist pins.
I think that's about everything, except the stuff I saw right away when I popped the barrels off of the case...
Ready? Make your bets...
Be sure and revue all available info, this one both suprised and disgusted me personally.
Go ahead and review that thread for insights or ideas, and then look back over here.
There is additional input:
The pistons looked almost brand spanking new, with no stuck rings, clean oil, and they were obviously upgraded "MAHLE" brand rings, pistons, and jugs (which are stouter, and can take more abuse).
The rings were so clean - they popped out from the piston lands about an eighth inch and rode smoothly all around the pistons. In fact - they didn't even look as if they had been worn in good yet.
No damage to the piston upper surfaces, but considerable blackening of the piston tops.
No apparent burning of number three exhaust valve, but it was sooted black from incomplete combustion.
*#3 cylinder was where the oil was coming from
Curb side (#'s 1 and 2) cylinders appeared to be clean burning, with normal ash deposit on valve heads.
No evident cracks or leakage of valves or cylinder to head sealing areas.
Valve stems had less than 0.010 side play (they were tight - like new).
Piston slap: Negligable.
Rod end play: Like a new set of rods and wrist pins.
I think that's about everything, except the stuff I saw right away when I popped the barrels off of the case...
Ready? Make your bets...
Be sure and revue all available info, this one both suprised and disgusted me personally.
Last edited by Greywolf; Sep 8, 2007 at 08:25 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
Likes: 3
From: Marengo, Iowa
It does matter on a Bug motor, because it is designed for non detergent oil. Detergent oil keep the crud moving, whereas non detergent oil allows the crud to catch in the areas in the block designed for that to happen... Told to me by my tech school instructor many years ago, who had worked on them, as well as was old enough to have done quite a few, and the newer detergent oils, in a new motor, will kill them. I know of another case, 5000 miles on fresh rebuild running detergent oil, and it failed.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,269
Likes: 0
From: Where's my map???
Originally Posted by Greywolf
.I think that's about everything, except the stuff I saw right away when I popped the barrels off of the case....
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
I can't offer any more clues - but many plugs have manufacturer specific numbers.
That is not a clue
Think about engine dynamics...
What wears most under certain conditions?
That is not a clue
Think about engine dynamics...
What wears most under certain conditions?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,269
Likes: 0
From: Where's my map???
Originally Posted by fellro86
It does matter on a Bug motor, because it is designed for non detergent oil. Detergent oil keep the crud moving, whereas non detergent oil allows the crud to catch in the areas in the block designed for that to happen... Told to me by my tech school instructor many years ago, who had worked on them, as well as was old enough to have done quite a few, and the newer detergent oils, in a new motor, will kill them. I know of another case, 5000 miles on fresh rebuild running detergent oil, and it failed.
HMMM, I might have to change my vote.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
That's probably because all oil, detergent and non, have anti-foam additives.
My compressor says specifically to use detergent oil in it.
Detergent suspends the particles in the oil, and clumps them together so the filter can grab them more easily.
It will clean out deposits left by non-detergent oil, and cause issues in an old engine without a filter.
Didn't they start putting filters on the Bug engines in '65, or did that come later?
My compressor says specifically to use detergent oil in it.
Detergent suspends the particles in the oil, and clumps them together so the filter can grab them more easily.
It will clean out deposits left by non-detergent oil, and cause issues in an old engine without a filter.
Didn't they start putting filters on the Bug engines in '65, or did that come later?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,269
Likes: 0
From: Where's my map???
Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
Hmmm. I've used detergent oil in every air cooled car in my shop for 25+ years and never foams up.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 29,941
Likes: 46
From: Drummonds, TN USA
The only stock filter - up through 1972 - is a fine screen up under the round plate on the bottom of the crankcase.
It could filter about what the aerator screen in a water faucet is capable of...
It could filter about what the aerator screen in a water faucet is capable of...
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,269
Likes: 0
From: Where's my map???
Originally Posted by Greywolf
The only stock filter - up through 1972 - is a fine screen up under the round plate on the bottom of the crankcase.
It could filter about what the aerator screen in a water faucet is capable of...
It could filter about what the aerator screen in a water faucet is capable of...