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No rusty valves or valve seats?
Also if the cylinder head studs are 8mm in diameter the torque is 18ftlb
If the studs are 10 mm then it is 23-25ftlb.
The 8's are MUCH better as they are more elastic and can absorb thermal expansion and contraction better.
If you are stuck with the 10's, they work ok, but the heads tend to get loose if you run the engine hard and then they make that staccatto popping noise under load. Worst sounding when cold.
You can convert the case to 8's but sometimes you have to change out the inserts.
If your case is an "A" series case it's worth the fix.
If your case is an "H" series case, don't put another penny into it, they are too weak and the studs pull right out of the block. Pull the good parts off of it and start again.
Also look and see if the upper rear cylinder head stud is "deep sunk". It would be the upper one farthest back on the #3,4 side. The stud insert will be down this hole about 3 inches deep. VW did that to keep the case from cracking behind the flywheel.
We had a little chevy pickup in the shop for some front end damage, pushed it outside for a day with no hood on it. Never even thought about what might have happened overnight when a huge rainstorm went through. Went to start it the next day and it was locked up tighter than a bull's butt at fly time. It was a straight four cyl, and my buddy pulled the plugs and said "Crank it over!" I never saw anyone get so wet so fast. I almost broke my neck falling on the ground laughing...