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Got a question here for you experts...will a newer exhaust manifold fit onto an older FE? Reason I ask is I was at the local Pull and Save today and found a truck around '74-'75 with an FE in it, with the manifolds still on it. My poor old '68 has a cracked drivers side log, so I went ahead and pulled one off this newer truck. Sure hope it fits, but if not I am only out $14 and some skin. Couldn't say no to it at that price! I still can't believe I got it off without any WD or any other lubricant! One other question...the passenger side had the "heat shield/exhaust warmer" sheetmetal on it...mine doesn't have that. Would it be worth the skin to go back and get it tomorrow?? Oh yea...any advice or tips on installing exhaust mainfolds would be really appreciated! Thanks guys!
Go get the other manifold. If the bolts came out without any problem, check the heads they may be rebuilt. I found a set like that a while back. The right manifold on trucks is different than on cars, the left is the same. Those heat stoves are hard to find in good condition.
William in Atlanta
Chad,
I use high-temp "never sieze" goop on the thread of all my exhaust manifold bolts. It comes in a (approx.) 6 oz. bottle, with a brush, and it looks like grease with little copper, metal flakes mixed in. This anti-sieze stuff will help prevent your manifold bolts from rusting in place (and snapping the next time someone removes them).
Seems as though you snow-pack states have much nicer older vehicles. I was in CO a year ago and couldn't believe the great condition of the older cars and trucks I saw. The automoblile manufacturers have some kind of conspiracy here (in Ohio) to destroy all metal with road salt. Finding a good heat-stove is rare (like finding an uncracked windshield in CO).
Ohio Bill
Yes it is to a point but it can bite you in some cases.
When the engine is cold, warmer air helps keep the air/fuel mixture in suspension instead of falling out as it turns inside the manifold, especially when you give it some gas and the manifold vacuum drops. That's why a carb. backfires when you goose it cold, it's a lean-out condition.
Also, when it is very cold and damp outside, the moisture in the mixture can freeze inside the carb. and actually block off the throttle bore. Warmer air helps keep the moisture above the freezing point when it passes through the throttle plate. Vaporized fuel naturally lowers the mixture temperature but it's the pressure drop that can lower the temperature below freezing. Has something to do with PV=NRT
I bought a '69 Merc Monterey with a 390 that had a major leak from the left manifold. Not knowing a damn thing about FE's at the time (about 6 weeks ago, been reading a LOT since) I just replaced the gasket which was totally blown to pieces. Just as I tighten down the LAST bolt my ever helpful chevy neighbor wanders over & says "yanno those 390's have a bad habit of warping the manifolds". He was right, new gasket didn't make any damnn difference at all. 5 minutes at the machine shop with the manifold on the big belt sander fixed it (was warped by about 3/32nd) & lightend my wallet by $28 (eek!).
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Dec-02 AT 00:05 AM (EST)]Grrreaaaaat. I've got a leaking left manifold that has a bolt head already missing (see the "exhaust issues" thread). The news just keeps getting better and better.
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