Well, I looked closer at my leaking exhaust manifold and noticed that it is missing a bolt at the number 7 cylinder. As I was spraying the bolts with penetrant and planning on trying to loosen them on the weekend, I noticed that the only thing missing is the bold HEAD. The rest of the bolt is still there. It looks as if the previous owner tried to fix the exhaust leak, snapped off the first bolt head and gave up.

Is the hole in the manifold threaded, or is it (as I'm hoping) smooth; with the bolt actually threading into the head, pulling the manifold tight to the gasket? This would mean that I can take out hte other bolts and slide the manifold off the headless bolt, and then worry about getting the threaded part of the bolt out of the head. Of course, the power steering box is inches away from the dang bolt...
If the hole in the manifold is threaded, off it goes to the mechanic..

 

Bolt goes through the manifold and screws into the head.

Barry

 

Pat, the head flange is threaded, and the hole in the manifold is smooth, just as you hope. Keep applying the penetrant liberally. And, sometimes, these top bolts come out easier if the head is hot. If you have trouble getting the top bolts out, just fire the engine up for awhile. Good luck!

 

Thanks fellas! That's the best of the two cases I had left. Gonna take a little more work on my part, but that's why I bought this thing... I think

 

You can pour gallons of the loosening up oil on the bolts, but it has been my experence to find heating it to cherry red with the torch and gently rocking it right & left was the only to get them out. I have tried the oil for weeks before actually trying to loosen them, and it didn't work. I guess you have to be lucky and find a set with antiseeze on them.
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John

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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

I bow to your experience, John.

I do not own a torch (unless you count the little propane kind), and I'm not a welder, so forgive me if these are silly questions, or if there are assumptions that I'm missing. Doesn't heating the bolt that much transfer a bunch of heat to the head? Is there a danger of warping the head?

Can I actually use the little propane torch to do this job? Should I get some MAP gas instead? (I saw a plumber using MAP gas once - he said it gets things hotter quicker). If I can use the little torch, is it wise to do so with the engine still in the truck? Getting to some of the bolts, especially the lower ones, would seem problematic.

Thanks

 

Ahh… My nightmare revisited. Here is my story.

“Once upon a time, a pious and kind man named Jay found out that he had an exhaust leak. After tracing the sound to a bad exhaust manifold gasket he spent $9.50 at his local Napa and bought a new gasket set. He cleared his Saturday afternoon (just in case) so he would have adequate time to do the repair. After thoroughly soaking the bolts in penetrating lubricant (on the head flange side), and letting them sit for a few hours he tried loosening the first bolt. It was tough bolt, but was moving slowly. After coaxing the bolt half way out, it decided to break off! Now Jay is someone not easily discouraged. “Ok”, he said with a frown, “I’ll take the rest of them off and work at the stud alone.” 6 of the other bolts came off nicely to Jay’s surprise. However, much to Jays chagrin the last one near the starter was being a proverbial ‘B#$ch’. After heating it up with a propane torch, he tried once again to loosen the crust old bugger. It broke. The exhaust manifold came off like a dream, leaving two studs sticking out like core thumbs. 1 broken easy out, an empty tank of propane, 5 broken drill bits, and 18 hours later, the manifold was put back on.”

After breaking the two bolts, I took the front clip off my 68 f100 to easier access the bolts for drilling. I still had to buy one of the 90-degree angle gears for my drill. After drilling a perfect hole through the first bolts, heating it up with the propane torch to as hot as I could get, I insert an easy out (hate these damn things) and promptly broke it off INSIDE the hole! You do not just DRILL through hardened steel. I had to drill a small hole to one side of the easy out (in doing so I broke 2 bits) and chip it out of the whole with a hardened punch. After that fiasco, I just hogged the rest of the bolt out and used a Helicoil! This was just the first bolt and it took me 6 hours!!!!!!!!!! I had a similar time with the one near the starter, I broke a drill bit off inside during the process of drilling, this one was sticking out a little more so I just lopped it off as close to the head as possible and hogged it out as well.

I have never cursed as much in my life! It was a miserable time. Before I started this project I thought about changing both sides even though the left side didn’t really need it. NO WAY! I will wait till I rebuild the damn thing!

In hindsight, I should have taken more time and rented (or bought) an acetylene torch to really heat those suckers up!

Lesson’s learned:

1. Have patience, you’ll need it
2. Throwing wrenches, has a minimal effect on the project at hand
3. If something is in the way, remove it! It is easier to remove something and reinstall it than having to work around it. I am GLAD I removed the front clip, it would have been almost impossible to do the project with it there. Plus, it’s easy if you have an extra hand. Only 12 bolts! (Plus radiator, battery, headlight wires, etc…)
4. Take the time to get the correct tool for the job. The propane torch didn’t cut it.

Good luck, I feel for you.

 

Thanks for sharing, Jay - I think

You did put anti-sieze on the bolt going back in right?

I am thinking long and hard about doing this. It might be worth the trip to the mechanic, assuming he'd take the job

I hadn't though about taking off the front clip. I'll have to wait for my shop manuals for that one, I think. The more I look at this thing, the more tempted I am to take everything off the frame and cleaning that up as well. This $400 truck could get very expensive - very quickly.

So evidently you can apply lots of heat and not worry about warping heads?

Thanks again

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 04-Dec-02 AT 00:35 AM (EST)]I hope I didn't discourage you... I would do it again if I had to, I would just be better prepared. I would try applying the heat to the bolt, letting it cool down, and repeat. (note: I don't think apply heat to the head will warp it.) Take your time on this step. Remember, six of my eight bolt's came out no problem! You could get lucky.

Taking the front clip off is REALLY easy! I have only owned my truck for 3 weeks now, and I did it without a manual. Putting it back on was easy as well. Here is a walk through (installation is reverse):

1. Remove the headlights, and pull the wiring back into the engine compartment (there should be a ground you need to unscrew for the lights).

2. Remove the battery and undo all the terminals. Unbolt the solenoid, regulator, etc from the inner fender well (leave the wires still connected) and lay them ontop of the engine. You may have to pop a few retainers that hold the wires to the fender well (try not to break them) You also may need to unscrew a retainer holding your heater hoses to the inner fender.

3. Remove your windshield washer resevoir from the other fenderwell, as well as lay that sides wiring on the engine as well.

4. Remove your radiator, and bumper.

5. Support the front of your truck on jack stands and remove the front wheels

*** NOTE: there are now twelve bolts between you and having your entire front clip off (including the hood). ***

6. unbolt your fenders from the cab. One bolt is located underneath the vehicle near the door, and one is located inside the cab (where the door hinges are).

7. 8 bolts to go... Unbolt two bolts holding your core support where it attaches to the frame.

8. 6 bolts to go... Now each inner fender should be secured by three bolts to the firewall, for a total of six bolts. Since this portion of the inner fender wells can be adjusted it would be a good idea to mark where there will go back.

9. Now close the hood. You and friend (preferably a strong friend) can lift the entire clip up and forward. (The center of gravity is towards the front of the clip) This may take a little strategy to make sure you dont get the inner fenders caught on anything, but it is fairly easy. Set the clip on two saw horses (resting on the inner fender rail.

WA-LA!

If I missed anything anybody, chime in. I did this last Sunday, it went together even easier on Wednesday. Let me know if I can answer any questions. Take care.

 

Hoss, $400.00 will only last for about 1 month on a new 2003 F150 XLT Lariat.
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.

 

Use studs on the top bolts. This way you can heat the nuts next time. Getting those rusty top bolts out is a real chore. If they turn at all I lube the back side and turn them back in, then out and in, you get th picture. Work lubricant around the threads as you back the bolt out. Plenty of heat will help. When the bolt comes out throw it away!
William in Atlanta

 

Thsnks guys. I appreciate all the great help.

I will update when I figure out what to do. It may be awhile...