I have the oil pan off of my 360 (verified 3.5" stroke with verneir calipers). I was looking at the parts of the rods I could see and noticed that the rod caps have a C6AE clearly forged on them.

Would someone really have put these in a 360? That may explain why the pistons are so far down in the cylinders at TDC. The appear to be almost least 1/8" below deck.

Or would Ford have put the same rod caps on all short and long rods?

I don't mind having the stronger rods (if it's true), but am a little disappointed at such a low compression ratio. (The thing won't ping no matter how much spark advnce I give it.)

Any thoughts?

I could pull a piston, but I'm afraid of disturbing the set of the rings. And I wasn't going to touch anything serious in the bottom end for a couple of years.

--Matt





1972 F250 Custom Sport Camper Special 4x2 360 2v C6 3.73
Some day hope to shorten to a 104" wheelbase as part of a Broncification project
My FTE Website -- http://www.clubfte.com/users/mlf72f250/index.html
My Galleries -- https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaygallery.php?userid=1108

 

I don't know that ford ever did this. Some people just don't know what they are doing when they rebuild an FE. Look at it this way.. you are only a crank away from having a 390 if your 360 pistons don't have the long skirts. If you don't desire extra cubes and don't beat on the engine go with some 360 rods. I'm not sure about the rod caps. I would imagine they are all the same.

 

Rat,
Thanks for the thoughts.

A machinist friend is talking me into going through the whole engine anyway. I guess then I'll find out for sure what connecting rods are in the engine. If it's got the good rods, I'll put in new ARP bolts, and if not, I'll add them. Then, at a minimum I'll install new rings, maybe new pistons. If I find a good 390 crank for free, I may add that, too.

This is going beyond the scope of the original project, but should be good, practical learning experience.

--Matt


1972 F250 Custom Sport Camper Special 4x2 360 2v C6 3.73
Some day hope to shorten to a 104" wheelbase as part of a Broncification project
My FTE Website -- http://www.clubfte.com/users/mlf72f250/index.html
My Galleries -- https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaygallery.php?userid=1108

 

Your machinist gives good advice. For the cost of balancing and cutting the 360 crank, you can get a 390 crank at autozone or NAPA. Then have your machinist measure and balance it. Re-conditioned 390 rods are about the same price as re-conditioning your 360 rods, and you definatly need to replace those 8-1 compression pistons you have now. So bottom line for the cost of a 360 rebuild you can have a 390. Do the oil mods, (all of them). If the heads are in good shape just freshen them up. I'd guess you already have the hardened valve seats for unleaded fuel. Keep the CR down to aroung 9.0 to one you can still run 87 octane. Later as the budget allows you can upgrade the cam intake/carb. Do the Cloyes true roller timing chain while your in there. I'd suggest a set of ARP main bolts, rod bolts, and head bolts. I prefer studs for the mains and heads but thats just me, on a street motor you really don't need them. Get the bottom of the engine right and you will have trouble free driving for years.
William in Atlanta

 

I took a look and the some of the skinny C7TE rods have C6AE caps.
It sure is an interesting and misleading combination.

 

William,
Thanks for the pointers.
Here's where I am with parts and wear.

INDUCTION:
I already bought an ebok RPM manifold and Holley carb -- only because the original iron 2BBL was so stinking heavy.

HEADS:
I'm going through the process of cleaning and inspecting two pairs of heads (my originals plus two I bought from econodrag). I plan on putting new DSC springs/retainers/keepers, false iron guides, and seat inserts into the best pair. My originals were pretty good except that the exhaust flanges on one side were really hacked and chewed up.

SHORT BLOCK:
Surprisingly, the bores, pistons, and bearings show very little wear. I think the PO must have had it rebuilt fairly recently. I'm currently leaning towards keeping it as a 360 with new gaskets, bearings, and rings for now. I just feel bad replacing good parts with lots of life left in them. I will prpbably put in the Cloyes timing chain.

FUTURE:
Then once I'm up and running, I'll have a couple of years to think about the next upgrade. It will be along the lines of what you are suggesting. Maybe a 390 (410?) upgrade. I'm also considering swapping in a 460 with FI.

Thanks again.

--Matt


1972 F250 Custom Sport Camper Special 4x2 360 2v C6 3.73
Some day hope to shorten to a 104" wheelbase as part of a Broncification project
My FTE Website -- http://www.clubfte.com/users/mlf72f250/index.html
My Galleries -- https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaygallery.php?userid=1108

 

BAD NEWS -- GOOD NEWS

My engine is more worn then first thought.

COOL!

Now, for sure, I can make it into a healthy a 390 without feeling wasteful.

390, 10:1, '801 cam, oiling mods, ARP everywhere, 4bbl, Performer RPM -- I'd better be nice, 'cause santa claus is coming to town...


As always, I'll keep ye posted...

--Matt



1972 F250 Custom Sport Camper Special 4x2 360 2v C6 3.73
Some day hope to shorten to a 104" wheelbase as part of a Broncification project
My FTE Website -- http://www.clubfte.com/users/mlf72f250/index.html
My Galleries -- https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaygallery.php?userid=1108