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I am planning for the future here.... I have a 360 2BC and a 390 2BC. I will be using the 360 till I get a engine built. I just saw a engine that sparks my interest, the 393 stroker. In all practical applications what would be the best engine for relilabilty and 450+ horse. As far as gas mileage goes: as long as I get at least 10 MPG i'll be happy. If you all had this choice would you build a 393 stroker, a 390, a 390 with a 428 crank, or......? Thanks for your input. Jack
Couple of things! Firstly a 460 will bolt in where the 360 is now. More modern engine, easier HP and cheaper aftermarket goodies. 450HP on a 460 is reasonable. Personal preference would be the 390 but I think 450HP is a reach unless you have a big budget. 410 would be fun, I am considering that as my next winter project. Then again that 460 is plenty big and easy. Ford Motor Sport has a crate 460 that would make life even easier. What are you going to use the truck for? I think that would be the place to start planning.
William in Atlanta
William is right.... 450 horse out of the 390 looks a lot like $6000, at least that is what the latest issue of HotRod built it for. And of course they complained all the way that it was a boat anchor. What kind of budget and what use is intended. I believe you can get away with a nicely refreshed and reliable garage unit pushing close to 375hp on your own for around $1600 (that's my current project in the works).
Jack, build the 390. William is mistaken about a 460 'bolting in' where a 360 was. It doesn't. You have to change the frame perches, the engine mounts, and the transmission, or at least the bellhousing if you have a manual. And the idea of speed equipment being cheaper for a 460 is a myth-where are some of you guys shopping ? A 393 stroker is usually 351W based engine, nothing wrong with those, but you'll need differant frame perches and engine mounts and tranny again. Your 390, however, drops right in, without any hassle. a 390 with a 428/410 crank IS a 390 stroker, and would also drop right into where your 360 is now. As to horsepower, the 390 can make 450 hp without even breaking a sweat. Yeah, HRM built a 390 and made 450hp and got 461 lbs-ft of torque. But they spent WAY too much money on it. What the magazine DIDN'T tell you was that a simple carb swap gave them 480 hp and 500 lbs-ft of torque. Ask Dennis C, it was his carb they tried, after they had all the data they needed for the magazine story. A big part of the problem was that HRM had dougan's build their engine. Dougan's is a well respected shop, but they know NOTHING about the FE series ford engine. HRM should have had Dennis build their 390, he knows what he is doing on an FE, and they would have had a better result from the start. HRM does seem to have a fascination with the edelbrock line...maybe Vic gave them some of the stuff. Anyway, instead of the E-bock heads, some ported D2TE-AAs or C8AE-Hs, with the 2.09/1.65 valves installed, will do the same job for less $$. And the manifold, ditch the E-bock RPM manifold and run a 'Blue Thunder' intake from Art Francis, and gain about 20hp. And the carb- run a big Holley or one of Barry's 'Demon' carbs, the FEs seem to like them better. Cranes hydralic rollers are wonderful, but they are pricey (800$ ?), if I were on a budget I would run a big hydralic flat tappet (still from Crane). If you want MORE than 500 lbs-ft of torque, Scat is selling new stroker cranks for the FE series at the following strokes- 3.98, 4.00, 4.125 and 4.250, so if you think 600-650 lbs-ft is what you REALLY want, the FE can give it to you......But if 450hp and 500lbs-ft is enough, you can do it for 2500-3K, easy. DF
DF, you are the man! Trust me on this one. A 460 will bolt in where a 352/360/390 or any other FE resides. Yes you will need the trans, and the perches, but these parts bolt in. I also agree with you about the 390 and I am partial to these old FE's. No actually that isn't quite right; I love these old FE engines. I think it boils down to what you know, how many tools you have and how big your budget is. Maybe like the header issue this one will never be resolved to everyone’s satisfaction. I am hoping to have my latest "new" FE done in time for a January install. Silvolite 1130 pistons, all the oil mods, Crane 901, C7AE-A heads and log manifolds, balanced with ARP fasteners. For now I'll use the truck "T" manifold. Got adjustable rockers, cloyes true roller timing chain and more. This one should be the best one yet! Ain't life grand! By the way thanks for your help!
William in Atlanta
I think the genuine carter carbs are fine....the edelbrock 'copies' are not always manufactured correctly. We have seen lots of them cause problems. DF
Thank you very much for the info everyone. I would love to build the truck for every once in a while rompings. It would not be my everyday driver but it would still have to be streetable and still be able to cruise from Tampa to Cincinnati when I want to. I am planning on redoing the interior to FORD/Peterbuilt. Peterbuilt gauges, wood dash, wood bed, high polished alum tank for my gas tank thats mounted in the truck bed, toggle switches for:lights, wipers, cargo and dome lights, driving lights, chicken lights, starter, off road lights installed in rear bumper. I would also love to have texas bumpers (big alum push looking bumpers on semi's) on the front and rear. To lug all this around I will need ALOT of horsepower.
Anyways, Thats my dream truck
P.S. rear tailgate to say Built by FORD PETERBUILT improved
Sorry to add more to this thread, but I like so many ideas here I just have to ask, are you building this for HP or torque. I am planning a very similar project but my emphasis is ging to be torque. I lucked out on a 428 crank and pressure plate both with the original grind. I appreciate all the advise you have given. It has helped me a lot. But will these tips help my low end torque?
Thanks
Rich
62 F-250
The longer stroke of the 428 crank will increase torque. I also believe the Crane 901 hydraulic cam with a Edelbrock Performer and 600 CFM carburetor on a truck motor reasonable. Iron or aluminum heads with bigger valves are also good if you have the bucks. I think you need to build the bottom as strong as possible and add components to improve the engine later. Critical for me is the crankshaft, it must be balanced, polished and carefully measured to determine if the journals are round and not tapered. The block must be bored and honed to fit your choice of pistons and rings. The compression ratio is important and dictated by the planned use of the engine. Street engines like around 9.5 to one for performance and a bit lower for a truck. Do the oil mods. Get a Melling hi volume oil pump. Then later if you decide to go with headers and a hotter camshaft or a different intake you have a strong engine to put these changes on. You don't have to do this all at once. Just get the block and compression ration right and build from there.
William in Atlanta
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