Welding ?????
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 693
Likes: 1
From: SouthWest Ga.
Not sure what you mean by Aluminized? Stainless an Aluminum are welded into diff. manners. Both can be Tig welded but Aluminum is done with High Frequency and Stainless is not. As to a stick it's either a Stainless rod or a Aluminum rod. If it is mild steel with an aluminum coating then you should be able to grind the coating off and Tig with a stainless filler rod, if you try just to melt mild steel & stainless together with out the filler rod you can get bubbles and a crappy weld.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 18,488
Likes: 22
From: The Big, Oregon
You can, most factory cat pipes are stainless to handle the heat, and muffler shops weld them all the time. Just use regular 70S-6 wire ( I wouldn't bother with stick unless you like to torture yourself), and have fun.
Aluminized pipe is just that, pipe with a very thin coating of aluminum to help prevent rust. It's that same concept as galvanized, but less toxic fumes when it's heated.
Aluminized pipe is just that, pipe with a very thin coating of aluminum to help prevent rust. It's that same concept as galvanized, but less toxic fumes when it's heated.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,214
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From: New Jersey
Use a rod (for arc) or wire (for mig) suitable for stainless and you'll end up with a nice weld, joining the two materials together. Done it a few times using my mig welder with a tri-mix in the tank.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 11,697
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From: Marengo, Iowa
I have welded both ways, mild to stainless, and stainless to mild... You can use either wire/stick type, and it will work, but in regards to corrosion, the standard is to use stainless. When I was building industrial fans, if the majority was mild, we ran mild wire. If for whatever reason they wanted mild added to a stailness unit, it got welded with stainless.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
It's sad to see muffler shops that blast a bead over dirt and rust then call it good. I must go over the top in preparation by cleaning no matter if it's only a Mig job vs Tig as I always prep to bright metal Tig conditions.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 626
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From: Rome, GA
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
It's sad to see muffler shops that blast a bead over dirt and rust then call it good. I must go over the top in preparation by cleaning no matter if it's only a Mig job vs Tig as I always prep to bright metal Tig conditions.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 24,724
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From: Blue Hill Township
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
It's sad to see muffler shops that blast a bead over dirt and rust then call it good. I must go over the top in preparation by cleaning no matter if it's only a Mig job vs Tig as I always prep to bright metal Tig conditions.
I have pics of you are interested
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,658
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From: "Islander"
Better yet a repair where a smaller pipe is slipped into a larger pipe against the exhaust flow or stretching a pipe up two sizes. The motor runs who would know unless later the vehicle was lifted again.
Yes the factory stainless pipe will saw real easy. Many muffler shops just use a torch and dribble thru stainless leaving a balled up mess then slip a coupled pipe over, who would know?
I have seen this many times at my friends muffler shop with hash jobs that come in, customer only needs a muffler or cat but the whole systems a mess, better to do a complete replacement. Many times the customer can't afford a complete job requests a patch on hash.
Oops little off topic here.
Yes the factory stainless pipe will saw real easy. Many muffler shops just use a torch and dribble thru stainless leaving a balled up mess then slip a coupled pipe over, who would know?
I have seen this many times at my friends muffler shop with hash jobs that come in, customer only needs a muffler or cat but the whole systems a mess, better to do a complete replacement. Many times the customer can't afford a complete job requests a patch on hash.
Oops little off topic here.
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