seam filling
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 458
Likes: 122
From: Maryland
It is likely that brass brazing rod was used from the factory for these areas, especially if they would be leaded afterward. I've got a mid 50's wagon in the shop now for metalwork and it has brass in it as well, in areas that do appear as factory. Tom, did you see any brass in the area you had the blow through? The mig doesn't play too nice around the brass. When you welded the seam, were you performing a contiunous weld or otherwise?
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Brass was located rear of cab where side meets rear seam; the metal here was really thin, now I'm looking at cutting out section and welding in patch panel. I picked up metal filler; am using this on cowl and rear side after welding.
I've been tacking , not continous welding, but where the metal is thin, I'm blowing through. I'm going to try to mend the area, but rear passenger side will require some extra attention.
Tom
I've been tacking , not continous welding, but where the metal is thin, I'm blowing through. I'm going to try to mend the area, but rear passenger side will require some extra attention.
Tom
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Thanks to al the suggestions on the forum, I completed the four seams on the cab, rear and cowl. Not a perfect job, but they are filled and if I drive fast enough no one willl notice.
I adjusted the wire feed as suggested; and took time to fashion patch panels, that fit the contour. I had to weld from the outside mostly, too tight a spot on the inside. I cover every weld I make on the cab with seam sealer from the inside , to give further protection from rust through.
Now on to the box build up today. Pictures to follow.
Tom
I adjusted the wire feed as suggested; and took time to fashion patch panels, that fit the contour. I had to weld from the outside mostly, too tight a spot on the inside. I cover every weld I make on the cab with seam sealer from the inside , to give further protection from rust through.
Now on to the box build up today. Pictures to follow.
Tom
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Caulked the rear seam today; good enough for me. Should be weather tight for a while now. I may do a bit more work on the cormer seams yet, there is a noticeable recess in the body line there.
I took a couple pics and put them in my gallery under cab mods.
Tom
I took a couple pics and put them in my gallery under cab mods.
Tom
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,000
Likes: 9,890
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Tom,
Looking good! You're doing some excellent work! The seams look great, now you got me thinking that I should do the same thing (at leasta, once I start on the body)
Great job on the cluster, those late model gauges look perfect. What are you going to be using for a speedo head? I considered doing the same thing on mine but my original speedo head was toast. I ended up with a complete guage set from a late model GM van.
I can't wait to see how the bed comes out, those pieces look great
Bobby
Looking good! You're doing some excellent work! The seams look great, now you got me thinking that I should do the same thing (at leasta, once I start on the body)
Great job on the cluster, those late model gauges look perfect. What are you going to be using for a speedo head? I considered doing the same thing on mine but my original speedo head was toast. I ended up with a complete guage set from a late model GM van.
I can't wait to see how the bed comes out, those pieces look great
Bobby
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 114
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From: Estevan, Sask. Canada
A local body shop recommended to use a urethane windshield adhesive to seal seams on patch panels such as cab corners after welding them in place. All externally visible seams such as the back of the cab above the back window or top of the cowls will be welded and filled with body filler.
Rick
Rick
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Truck bed
Didn't get to welding on truck bed today; ran out of argon mix. I worked on connecting the throttle postion linkage. Some issues here with travel, for another post. Box is going together weel, patience is key, many , many, many welds but end result should be worth it.
Bobby, I like the look of the filled seams, doesn't take away too much from the stock lok, yet should minimize rust areas.
Tom
Bobby, I like the look of the filled seams, doesn't take away too much from the stock lok, yet should minimize rust areas.
Tom
New User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2
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i am considering filling all the seams on my 67. i have some rust along the bed line and am thinking about using Rust Bullet to neutralize the rusted area after removing any loose rust and seam filler, then using a product like Lab Metal Compound to fill the seams... those seams along the bed ,hood and roof are so long i am worried about warpage from welding. any thiughts or suggestions? thanks!
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,694
Likes: 8,276
From: northwestern Ontario
i am considering filling all the seams on my 67. i have some rust along the bed line and am thinking about using Rust Bullet to neutralize the rusted area after removing any loose rust and seam filler, then using a product like Lab Metal Compound to fill the seams... those seams along the bed ,hood and roof are so long i am worried about warpage from welding. any thiughts or suggestions? thanks!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Old memories
This thread revival brings back memories; I did end up using flexible, paintable sealant (3M) on the seam behind cab; welded and filled the side seam behind door (liquid metal) filler. Haven't actually weather tested or driven the truck yet but for now it looks good.
Tom
Tom
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