What's a PIP?
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
What's a PIP?
I'm helping a buddy work on his 88 BII with the little V6. When I pulled the codes I came up with two. Code 14, PIP circuit failure and code 63, TPS low voltage.
I have no idea what PIP circuit is, but given the way it's (just barely) running I'm hoping it's an ignition circuit of some kind. We've already changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition module, and set the timing. Also eliminated the fuel system as a possible cause. Any ideas?
Also, on the code 63, we've already changed the TPS....but the code keeps coming back. What typically causes low voltage there?
Thanks,
Scott
I have no idea what PIP circuit is, but given the way it's (just barely) running I'm hoping it's an ignition circuit of some kind. We've already changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition module, and set the timing. Also eliminated the fuel system as a possible cause. Any ideas?
Also, on the code 63, we've already changed the TPS....but the code keeps coming back. What typically causes low voltage there?
Thanks,
Scott
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Joined: Nov 2005
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I found this on google, that might help...
http://www.search-autoparts.com/searchautoparts/article/articleDetail.jsp;jsessionid=GW6JBd7FcQ2KRJbnlQyd9 Q9MjPCC1qw7S7fVfL0t59G21vzG0Zkb!-593365296?id=88755
As far as low voltage, have you checked output of the battery? It might not be sending enough voltage do to some resistance in the wire. Trace the wire and see if its exposed somewhere, or has corrosion. Try the "wiggle test" also. If you don't know what that is, wiggle the wire around and see what happens. Move it around to different places and see if the code still comes up.
http://www.search-autoparts.com/searchautoparts/article/articleDetail.jsp;jsessionid=GW6JBd7FcQ2KRJbnlQyd9 Q9MjPCC1qw7S7fVfL0t59G21vzG0Zkb!-593365296?id=88755
As far as low voltage, have you checked output of the battery? It might not be sending enough voltage do to some resistance in the wire. Trace the wire and see if its exposed somewhere, or has corrosion. Try the "wiggle test" also. If you don't know what that is, wiggle the wire around and see what happens. Move it around to different places and see if the code still comes up.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: St. Peter
Profile Ignition Pickup (I THINK!...).
Its the pickup coil on the dizzy. Tells the computer if the dizzy is spinning or not. I believe it depends on what manufacture as to exactly what it does.
On your truck it might also use it to determine engine RPM, or maybe it has a crank sensor for that, i'm not sure.
Its the pickup coil on the dizzy. Tells the computer if the dizzy is spinning or not. I believe it depends on what manufacture as to exactly what it does.
On your truck it might also use it to determine engine RPM, or maybe it has a crank sensor for that, i'm not sure.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Yep....tried the wiggle test on everything we could reach.....got zip. I guess we'll have to start peeling wires out of the loom.
I don't know if it has a crank trigger or not...I hope it does as that is how it's acting. Or maybe the new ignition module is bad.
I don't know if it has a crank trigger or not...I hope it does as that is how it's acting. Or maybe the new ignition module is bad.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
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From: Atlanta GA
> I don't know if it has a crank trigger or not
That is what the hall effect/PIP does in the distributor, it sends back a signal to the EEC so it can determine crankshaft position/rpm.
As for the TPS, it should not be adjustable on a 1988 (a straight bolt on), but, you could check the voltage with a DMM (KEEO) and make sure it reads okay at idle and WOT.
That is what the hall effect/PIP does in the distributor, it sends back a signal to the EEC so it can determine crankshaft position/rpm.
As for the TPS, it should not be adjustable on a 1988 (a straight bolt on), but, you could check the voltage with a DMM (KEEO) and make sure it reads okay at idle and WOT.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
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From: Oak Harbor, OH
Okay, it DOES NOT have a crank trigger. It's an EEC-IV and the crank trigger went the way of the do-do with the introduction of the EEC-IV system. The PIP sensor is INSIDE the distributor, it tells the TFI module when to fire the coil (just the points on a lawn mower engine). It has a metal "tone" ring on the dizzy shaft and the sensor picks up the vanes with a magnetic sensor. Make sure you DON'T get the one from AUTOZONE. I replaced 3 of them before buying a Carquest part (almost twice the cost of the AZ part). The wells ones from AZ were bad right out of the box.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2005
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Been there as well, I got a garbage distributor from Advance Auto as well. Get a more expensivce quality one. pfogle hit everything right on.
Matt
Matt
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Originally Posted by 97Centurion
Did your buddy get it running?
I'll pass on the Autozone info...thanks.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Blue Hill Township
Don't get an O'Reillys dizzy either. I had one fail with only 15 miles on it. The electronics inside died on me. When these places "re-man" a distributor they paint it, check the busing/bearings for visible wear and then they just check to see if the electronics are even working. If they are, they ship it out. The fewer parts they have to replace they better for them. Unfortunately for the consumer, this means that the parts fail quickly.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: St. Peter
I wonder if your parts people send all the bad reman stuff your way. The only problem i've ever had is a brake caliper that had a leaky pistion. and yes, I have installed ALOT of reman stuff.
But then again, I usually go the middle of the road. My parts place (advance auto) usually has a low quality reman, good quality reman, and new availible for alot of applications. So I will usually opt for the good quality reman. Its my opinion that if you buy the cheap junk, dont be surprised when it doesnt last.
With that being said, even new stuff can be junk. We put in a brand new AC Delco water pump in a 350, weeks later the truck was back in because it was overheating. Upon inspection the water pump had an extra bolt floating around in it from the manufacturing process. I've also seen some other stuff where the dealer parts were of marginal quality.
But then again, I usually go the middle of the road. My parts place (advance auto) usually has a low quality reman, good quality reman, and new availible for alot of applications. So I will usually opt for the good quality reman. Its my opinion that if you buy the cheap junk, dont be surprised when it doesnt last.
With that being said, even new stuff can be junk. We put in a brand new AC Delco water pump in a 350, weeks later the truck was back in because it was overheating. Upon inspection the water pump had an extra bolt floating around in it from the manufacturing process. I've also seen some other stuff where the dealer parts were of marginal quality.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 24,724
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From: Blue Hill Township
Originally Posted by pfogle
That's why I prefer to replace the modules rather than the entire dizzy. If it all possible buy a NEW distributor not a REMAN. I've never had any luck with the remaned parts.
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FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: May 2001
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Good news.....got an Autozone distributor and it works like a champ. He confused me a bit at first because he put the 2-5 plug wires on wrong, but now that's square it's running good.
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