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Pulling Crankshaft Pulley

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Old Aug 29, 2007 | 05:36 PM
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Pulling Crankshaft Pulley

Shop manual doesn't say anything about removing the fan or cowling to remove the pulley. Doesn't look like there is nearly enough room to pull it otherwise, though. Anybody got any advice for me before I dig in? Thanks,

John
 
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 06:48 AM
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I did not remove fan to remove pulley. I just unscrew 8 mm bolts (with 1/2" socket) and removed pulley. But there is a dampfer there. To remove it uscrew bolt with 21 mm socket and pull it away with special puller.

What do U want to remove th pulley for?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 08:49 AM
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Pablo is right however the pulley is only removable if you have a 3.0 if you have a 4.0 the pulley and damper are one and must be removed together.

If you have a 4.0 you will need to remove the fan clutch and shroud together. This will give you access for a puller.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 11:00 AM
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I see you have heard the words from Mr. Krankshaft on how to remove his pulley
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 05:27 AM
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As others have said, on your 4.0 Liter engine, you will have to remove the fan (with clutch) and shroud in order to install puller yo remove the crank damper, since the pulley is attached to it. It might even be necessary to remove the radiator if you have a large puller.

In order to remove the crank bolt, you will have to lock the crank shaft some how. An air impact wrench might be able to do it without locking the shaft, but then you definitely will need to remove the radiator for the working space. I removed the starter and jammed a screw driver between one of the torque converter studs and part of the frame to lock the crank shaft in place while I loosened the crank bolt. Then you might need to jam it the other way to use the puller, which usually uses something that that is bolted to the holes in the pulley while a threaded rod is turned against the crank. I unthreaded the crank bolt a few turns and pushed against it with the puller rod so I don't mess up the threaded hole in the crank shaft. At some point, there will not be enough length on the crank bolt to push against to completely remove the damper. I got a slightly longer bolt of the same size and thread (M12/1.5* 100 mm) to push against to remove the damper the rest of the way. That longer bolt is also useful for starting the damper back onto the shaft when you're installing it again.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 06:45 AM
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Loosening that bold before impact wrenches were available we use to put out break over bars against the frame and bump the starter. Generally it took 2, one to hold the breakover bar in position while someone bumped the started.

DO NOT TRY THIS IF YOU CAN NOT LOCK TH EBREAKOVER BAR AGAINST THE FRAME, Other wise you could get seriously hurt.

No effort required. Works every time.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 10:00 AM
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or use a long 3/4 or 1" drive breaker bar and a 5 lb brass hammer
careful, will remove fingers
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 11:24 AM
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Just for conversation, why are you removing it? Bent pulley? Bad damper? Oil leak?
If you do pull the damper, be sure to replace the seal. Also check the surface that the seal rides on. If there's a groove worn in, they make a sleeve to cover it and get a smooth surface again.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2007 | 08:44 AM
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Just asking how to remove the pulley out of the blue without any other questions leads me to believe oil seal leak.
 
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Old Sep 1, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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To replace it I had to remove water pump.
 
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