Certainly no glaring problems, but some quick re-directions might help you attain that goal with minimal coin increases.

I think you'd be hardpressed to push the limits of the 19# injectors. Without aftermarket tuning software and/or a chip the 24#'ers would not be worth the trouble. With a properly set up adjustable FPR and 19# injectors, you'd be good to 300+. I've set up a heavy breathing 331 (afr heads, cam, long tubes, trick flow intake) and was shocked when the aftermarket tuning chip and 24# injectors was matched with an adjustable FPR, stock 19#'ers and a good set of wideband o2 sensors to tune. Saved the guy a large chunk of dough when he returned the 24# injectors and the tuning chip and software. I felt like the numbnut recommending the upgrade, but certainly learned the 19# injectors were very competent.

If you're looking to make this truck fun to drive, and willing to dive into other mods, you might want to rethink the stock roller cam. Although it is an improvement over the older cams, it still leaves some to be desired.... you can have my old F4TE roller cam if you want!! But I think you'd be short changing yourself and that 351 build. I considered doing the same with my build to save some coin, but I'm very pleased with a more aggressive grind.

Decide on a set of heads: aftermarket, have your E7's worked over professionally, or the Gt40's. Then and only then, have your cam and springs picked out. Call up for tech help and get help with a custom grind or any of the off the shelf bump sticks.

I hope this helps... some!
Mike

 

There's an idea, baddad. Port and shorten the 351 parts I already have, use the gt40p heads, and see where I end up at, though there's not much meat between the runners, maybe 1/4". As light as those pieces are, I'm sure there are voids there somewhere, tho. Decisions, decisions.





I ran across this design on the web somewhere. It looks easy enough to build. Picture two of them, with 4 runners each. One set starting from a head and reaching across over the opposite valve cover to end in a 4 runner plenum. One on each side with the runners interlaced over the center of the motor, rather like ones fingers. A TB on each plenum (yes, the linkages would be a concern but doable). A hose from TB to a filter box, then down to a scoop mounted beside the radiator, on either side. Good ram air/cold air inlets there.

You could get some good, straight runner length like that, and it would be pretty cool looking. Couple of problem areas, tho. Like the distributor. Although Ford does make a distributorless ignition system for 4 cylinders and a couple of them might be scrounged from a junkyard and made to work. There are also aftermarket systems with individual coils for each cylinder, but I'll bet those are pricey.

With the dist. out of the way, an open tube design like that, with the runners arching gently up and over the valley would allow some airflow from the fan to blow through there, if set up properly, keeping those runners relatively cool. Might need to add a light heat shield just below the runners over the valley, but maybe not.

I don't see the cooling system as much of a problem, add a tube from head to head, front and rear, plumb an inlet on the front tube and you're set, theoretically. I'd have to look at the coolant flow pattern of the engine in greater detail to be sure.

Efi engine controls would be a major concern. Dividing the engine in half like that would require two oxy sensors and two mass air meters. Perhaps smallish ones could be used if a certain amount of airflow is needed for accuracy. Maybe a couple from Ford V6's or something. I've actually thought about contacting the MegaSquirt guys to see if their system might be adaptable to such a setup.

But, these are just some thoughts off the top of my head. You guys got me started when you mentioned fabbing stuff. It's not my fault.

Rob

 

A roller 351 will have the F4TE cam in it already.

 

Yes, but my understanding was that this was a roller block project. As in, the cam choice was still in the air.

 

Instead of starting a new thread that pertains to some of the same issues, I decided to drag this old thread out of retirement so please bear with me. I also would like to get some additional power out of my doggy roller 351W. In the post I quoted, you said that a 5.0 upper won't seal with a 5.8 lower. Are you talking about a 5.0HO or 5.0 truck upper? I was wondering if a 5.0 truck upper will bolt on to a 5.8 lower, my thinking being is that I could port the lower to match the 5.0 truck upper if it will bolt on. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

No. The ports are TOTALY diferent. Not going to work. There are 5.8 intakes out there. Ebrok makes a truck intake thats a lot better then the stock 5.8 one. You can also look for a used intake off of a lighting. They had a gt40 style intake on a 5.8. Also there are many aftermarket intakes for the Mustang 5.0 world that you can get a 5.8 lower for.

 

I am also interested in modifying the truck 5.8 intake. I am on a tight budget for my 351 mustang project. Rather than buying an expensive intake I am just using a EFI truck lower and buying the $100 adapter to run the 5.0 HO upper. I will be running C9TE heads (69 302 with 58cc chambers) with mild port work and depending on cost may have larger valves installed. I also have a B303 cam and 1.7 rockers. I would like to have 300+ hp so I am looking for help and advice on porting the intake for maximum airflow.