Rebuild questions
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Tuned
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
Rebuild questions
I have a reman engine coming in a few days. 185,000 on the core.
When reinstalling the harmonic balancer, do you need a special tool?
Should I replace the old sensors at this time? How about the fuel pressure regulator?
Should gasket compound (like RTV) be used in conjuction with any gaskets - like on the water pump or the oil pan? I keep getting varying opinions.
Is there anything I could do short or cleaning the contamination from around the fuel injector nozzles to clean the injectors better?
Should I replace the clutch plate? How much wear is too much? Should the flywheel be resurfaced? It has some dark swirling discoloration.
I know this is a ton of minutia but my Chilton is weak in addressing some of this. Any advise would be great.
Thanks
When reinstalling the harmonic balancer, do you need a special tool?
Should I replace the old sensors at this time? How about the fuel pressure regulator?
Should gasket compound (like RTV) be used in conjuction with any gaskets - like on the water pump or the oil pan? I keep getting varying opinions.
Is there anything I could do short or cleaning the contamination from around the fuel injector nozzles to clean the injectors better?
Should I replace the clutch plate? How much wear is too much? Should the flywheel be resurfaced? It has some dark swirling discoloration.
I know this is a ton of minutia but my Chilton is weak in addressing some of this. Any advise would be great.
Thanks
Super Moderator
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 34,494
Likes: 2,809
Balancer: Should bolt on, no special tool. Check it and make sure it's not coming apart.
Sensors: Not sure which ones, what they do etc. Usually, these are go/no go and if good, reuse. Might be subject to "parts is cheap, labor is what kills ya, so while it's apart...." rule.
Fuel pressure regulator: Can you easily access it once the engine is in? If yes and it worked fine, reuse.
Gaskets: Gasgachinch (sp?) or similar. Cleanup and good gaskets should be ok without tons of goo. Problem area in the past, poor fit, gap? Goo it up.
Injectors: Working OK when you tore it down? If yes, go with it. Fuel additives and quality fuel should be enough to clean/keep clean.
Clutch Plate: Always subject to the above rule. Since your flywheel has discoloration, replace the plate and resurface the wheel, as well as new throwout bearing and pilot bushing.
Now, if you are going to sell soon, just slap it all back together with lots of rtv......
Sensors: Not sure which ones, what they do etc. Usually, these are go/no go and if good, reuse. Might be subject to "parts is cheap, labor is what kills ya, so while it's apart...." rule.
Fuel pressure regulator: Can you easily access it once the engine is in? If yes and it worked fine, reuse.
Gaskets: Gasgachinch (sp?) or similar. Cleanup and good gaskets should be ok without tons of goo. Problem area in the past, poor fit, gap? Goo it up.
Injectors: Working OK when you tore it down? If yes, go with it. Fuel additives and quality fuel should be enough to clean/keep clean.
Clutch Plate: Always subject to the above rule. Since your flywheel has discoloration, replace the plate and resurface the wheel, as well as new throwout bearing and pilot bushing.
Now, if you are going to sell soon, just slap it all back together with lots of rtv......
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,263
Likes: 1
From: The dark carnival
When it comes to the specifics regarding the installation of parts, a Ford factory service manual is the reliable source of info. It will tell you everything you need to know regarding RTV, harmonic balancer etc.
For water pumps and thermostat housings my 88 Ford manual says to coat both sides of the gasket with a FORD PERFECT SEAL B5A-19554-A OR EQUIVALENT. It is some kind of high temp silicone.
As for the vibration damper, the only special tool for installation is a torque wrench. I have never installed one, but if I understand my Ford manual correctly, just put it in place and torque in down to 70-90 foot pounds or 95-122 newton meters for the 302/351/460 and 130-150 foot pounds or 177-203 newton meters for the 300. Removal does require a special puller though.
When it comes to replacement of parts, if you have a motor out, replace everything that wears unless you are going to sell it right away. That means sensors, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, fuel injectors, motor mounts, raidiator, water pump etc. etc.
For water pumps and thermostat housings my 88 Ford manual says to coat both sides of the gasket with a FORD PERFECT SEAL B5A-19554-A OR EQUIVALENT. It is some kind of high temp silicone.
As for the vibration damper, the only special tool for installation is a torque wrench. I have never installed one, but if I understand my Ford manual correctly, just put it in place and torque in down to 70-90 foot pounds or 95-122 newton meters for the 302/351/460 and 130-150 foot pounds or 177-203 newton meters for the 300. Removal does require a special puller though.
When it comes to replacement of parts, if you have a motor out, replace everything that wears unless you are going to sell it right away. That means sensors, clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, fuel injectors, motor mounts, raidiator, water pump etc. etc.
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