front axle knuckle seals
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front axle knuckle seals
Man these guys were a pain. after shredding them to get them off. . . . and wrecking one putting it back on. . . . it was very difficult to get it back on with the makeshift tool i had made out of PVC pipe. I don't have my welder hooked up yet so I couldn't make a steel one. anyway. . . i noticed that the seals are at different depths in the knuckle from one side to the other. I know they are both on all the way. . . but I can't figure out why the pass side seal seems to be more in the knuckle then the drivers. Anybody have any suggestions? I'm waiting on rotors and pads. . . . so i got a day or two to mess with it if need be. Thanks.
Tim
Tim
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Joined: May 2007
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From: New Orleans
there is a spec as to how far they need to be in the knuckle. the tool from ford cost alot but i was so ez to install them. i would advise to not take a short cut and get the right tool. that tool is also set so when you knock the axel back in it sets it at the correct depth. just my 2ct
Ryder
Ryder
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Carhenge
Is it possible that you bent one of the seals installing it?
I found that if I remove most of the blue compound out of the inside surface of the seal with my dremel and the apply liquid high strength locktite when I install the seal the go on a lot easier.
I know, kinda hillbilly, but it works well for me.
I found that if I remove most of the blue compound out of the inside surface of the seal with my dremel and the apply liquid high strength locktite when I install the seal the go on a lot easier.
I know, kinda hillbilly, but it works well for me.
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nice
Originally Posted by clux
Is it possible that you bent one of the seals installing it?
I found that if I remove most of the blue compound out of the inside surface of the seal with my dremel and the apply liquid high strength locktite when I install the seal the go on a lot easier.
I know, kinda hillbilly, but it works well for me.
I found that if I remove most of the blue compound out of the inside surface of the seal with my dremel and the apply liquid high strength locktite when I install the seal the go on a lot easier.
I know, kinda hillbilly, but it works well for me.
Tim
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 487
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From: CT
I just replaced my large knuckle seals and wheel bearings yestrday. I made a tool out of galvanized pipe with a flange and cap, ground the flange smaller to fit inside the seal. Went on perfect and stayed straight. The pipe fit almost snug on the axle shaft, which kept the seal straight.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 597
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From: Central Maine
My seals are a tad different depths from side to side as well. Because the axles float left /right a little, I do not think it is an issue. I would drive it and see if they center themselves better. I just did my passenger side the other day and then seal came out and went in pretty smooth. It just seems to vary from truck to truck for level of difficulty. Kind of like removing rotors! May take 2 hrs to get a rotor off, may take 2min!!
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Joined: May 2007
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From: New Orleans
http://quad4x4.com/Ford%20Tools.htm
here is the link to where i got my tool from. it says to use a hammer and tap it on but i used the tool it's self as a slide hammer and it worked like a champ.
hope this helps
Ryder
here is the link to where i got my tool from. it says to use a hammer and tap it on but i used the tool it's self as a slide hammer and it worked like a champ.
hope this helps
Ryder
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Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
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From: Columbia, MO
A Ford dealer that doesn't have that tool? Something doesn't sound right about that. When I took my axles to the dealer, the diesel techs there knew exactly what tool was needed. They said it's a fairly common replacement on older trucks.
I destroyed 2 different seals on the driver's side before I finally went to the dealer. I used the galvanized homemade tool too, but it didn't work so well for me.
I destroyed 2 different seals on the driver's side before I finally went to the dealer. I used the galvanized homemade tool too, but it didn't work so well for me.
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Elder User
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Simple tool to install them can be made using pipe fittings availible from any plumbing supply house. I purchased a screw type union that was designed for 2" pipe and utilized only the half without the threads to make the wide base. After that, it is as simple as a 10" x2" pipe nipple and a 2" pipe cap. It works quite well.
The seals should be bottomed out on the axle shaft, and then when you install the seal, simply put a little lube oil on the outer portion and it should go in fairly easily. the depth will be set by the hub when you put the hub assembly back together. IF one is not seating all the way, I would try spinning it and pushing at the same time. The splines on the inner shaft might not be lined up and it might be holding it out. Also, put a little lube oil on the splined portion where it goes into the differential. This will help lubricate the inner seal and will help everything slip together easily as well. If that doesn't work, make sure that none of your splines has a burr on it from banging around while you where working on the knuckle seal(been there, done that).
The seals should be bottomed out on the axle shaft, and then when you install the seal, simply put a little lube oil on the outer portion and it should go in fairly easily. the depth will be set by the hub when you put the hub assembly back together. IF one is not seating all the way, I would try spinning it and pushing at the same time. The splines on the inner shaft might not be lined up and it might be holding it out. Also, put a little lube oil on the splined portion where it goes into the differential. This will help lubricate the inner seal and will help everything slip together easily as well. If that doesn't work, make sure that none of your splines has a burr on it from banging around while you where working on the knuckle seal(been there, done that).
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Morgan Hill, CA
Originally Posted by VQ2Fast4U
I just replaced my large knuckle seals and wheel bearings yestrday. I made a tool out of galvanized pipe with a flange and cap, ground the flange smaller to fit inside the seal. Went on perfect and stayed straight. The pipe fit almost snug on the axle shaft, which kept the seal straight.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 141
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From: La Porte, TX
I also just finished replacing mine too. I took my axles to a drive shaft and axle shaft repair shop and they pressed the new seals on for $20.00. First I went to ford and talked to a tech. and he said that they dont take the seals off of the axle that they just slide them off and reuse them. In fact they didnt even have the press or tool to put the seals on. Any way the tech told me that if you get the seal started in the knuckle and then put the bearing assy. on and cross tighten a little at a time it would seat the seal into the correct depth. I went out and made a tool just like Fat Diesel did and the only time I used it was after I put on the bearing assy. before I stated tighting it up I taped the outer side of the bearing assy. where the hub goes a couple of times to make sure that the seal was not in at an angle and to get the studs coming out of the back of the knuckle so you can get the nuts on the studs. I tried it with the tool and it was not working for me. Try pushing the axle and seal in with the bearing assy.. It works good and I did not have to go out and buy more parts to try again.
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