Need a new multi-meter
Make sure you go to a good electronics store or equivalent, to get the leads. Cheap ones are exactly that!!! Don't risk them. Plus, the nice thing about GOOD leads, is most have accessories, like alligator clips, etc, that screw on the end. Spend the money on good leads (Flukes are great, by the way!!) and get accessories as you need them.
I have the Fluke 77, wouldn't trade it for nothin'. I have several Radio Shack, and a Sears, but they are relegated to my "travel" tool boxes - thrown in the cars and trucks for long trips, just in case I need them. But the Fluke has a place of honor in my roll-around.
R
Anyway, I've had my 77 for 15 years, and it's been great.
I also used other Fluke stuff when I still worked for a living. With rare exceptions, it was good stuff.
But I have to say that I bought 3 HF meters when they were on sale for like $5. Ended up giving 2 to my son in law, but the one I kept is OK for accuracy.
I've checked it many times vs the Fluke, and it's right there. The probes are cr*p, and they are needle jack type, but I can deal with that. Also, the plastic case feels relatively brittle, and I'm sure that the internals are not too pretty. But it works surprisingly well.
I'd always want a good meter around to be sure, but it's nice to have multiples when you want to do a couple of things at once.
ford2go
On the above reply about cheap meters getting people hurt even a basic model Fluke will save your butt as well a Knopp "wiggie" and a pocket tic tracer. There is no excuse for being zapped when good equipments available.
For leads you'll see Flukes have thicker and more flexable insulation besides higher quality ends and probes, it freaks me out to work with "El Cheapo" equipment while working around 480 hot. I'm alive and plan to stay that way.
Banana plugs are shiny and springy.
Wires and insulation feel flexible. Plastic on probes feels solid. If all of this is true then the probe tips should be very conductive. Tips on cheap probes often have spots that don't provide good contact.
Poor leads probably are OK from an insulating standpoint ( unless they are reallly crap). But, they will fail to provide accurate readouts. The plating on the tips will not be consistent, and the banana ends in the meter may fall out because the metal is soft.
It's a lot like picking up a wrench to see if it is well made. The more that you
see, the better you can judge.
ford2go
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
a pair of the probes that have the chuck style ends that usually have a victrola needle
as the point. I made up 2 1 inch tips from stainless steel rod and they have been great.
I made up a set for my 269, as it is difficult to get a reliable zero on the low resistance
range using plated tips. The stainless tips give a solid repeatable zero. For those, I also
used Belden probe wire, and a Pomona double banana plug.
It's a lot like picking up a wrench to see if it is well made. The more that you
see, the better you can judge.
ford2go
With 20 years plant maintenance (high voltage) and 15 years electronics technician (low voltage) and lifetime auto (low voltage until you muck ahold of coil or plug!!), here's my opinion. I have 6 meters. Three are HDC, HF cheapies. These stay in the "crash box" in the cars. They can do a roadside 12 volt check, usually without any problem. You are basically looking for 12 volts and continuity. You can find them for 5 or 6 bucks, and if they get crushed, you aren't out a lot of money. For home, I have a Fluke, you can't beat a Fluke!! Plus, you can get all sorts of attachments - alligator clips that screw on (GOOD alligator clips, whose jaws line up!! Not Chinese crap!). Also, get a cheap "analog" - the kind with a needle. If you are measuring a capacitor, it will deflect a needle, but won't show up on a digital, or something intermittent. If you don't ever check caps, you really don't need one. I also have a nice bench meter, for my test bench that has 10 different leads. Again, for electronics, so most people don't need one. I also have one that attaches to my laptop, so I can graph voltage, current, etc, over time, as well as measuring temperature (thermostat testing). Too cool! I use that to graph how my batteries are charging.
One thing to remember. High voltages can equal death. You can't scrimp in that department.
If you are the kind of guy, who buys Wal-Mart tools, it will hurt to spend the money on a good meter - going to run you somewhere around $60 - $100, last I checked. But, it's some of the best money spent - a broken wrench = busted knuckle. A broken meter = serious injury or even death. But if you are the kind of guy who buys Craftsman, Snap-on, etc, a good meter will look great in your tool box!
For leads, I can't emphasis too much on going to a reputable electronics store, and buying the best they have - they are the only thing between you and the voltage you are checking. If I had to get rid of all my meters, except one, it would be the Fluke.
"I don't know what electricity is, but if it gets on you, it hurts!!!"
If you want more info, let me know, and I'll do some on-line searching for some recommendations.
R








