The AIS intake is the only one that is approved by Ford and won't void your warranty. If you install it coupled with the Zoodad modification you will be drawing in cold outside air rather then hot engine compartment air. Cooler air means more volume into the cylinders. The AIS gives you 35% more flow then the original factory with the same particle filtering rating as the original. It also makes the drivers side battery very accessible compared with the original setup. Access to the filter box is also better. This filter is also rated for 50,000 miles under normal conditions. I gace $198.00 for the AIS kit through a Ford dealer and installed it myself in a little over 30 minutes with no power tools. While the filter box is out is a good time to do the zoodad mode also.

 

My next project is to build a cold air box for the 6637 filter. That way i get the best of both worlds, good filtering and cold air!

 

when i get the chance i am taking out my AFE box and make a template..i was going to do this with the turbo swap but ran out of time..ill let you know..

 

The decision was easy for me, I wanted the best filtration. The Severe Duty system (as it's name implies) was designed to provide superior filtration in severe environments. If you think about the price of the AIS as 4 oil changes (fewer if you have someone else do them) it's really pretty reasonably priced.
As far as I'm concerned, the 6637 is a low flow unknown quantity element (it's OEM application is a low horsepower Cummins B engine) that tends to fall off our application. The only thing it has been proven to excel at is making our engines sound louder. Definitely not for me.

 

I have actually gotten comments from Blackstone about my "good air filtration, silicon only at 5ppm), this last time i believe it was 4ppm. It flows well, and filters well. I like the sound too.

 

Yeah, Kris, but do you run mostly on the pavement or in the dirt?
Any filter will return good numbers if you stay on the pavement, especially in the midwest and northeast or anywhere it rains a lot.

 

Good Point. I did drive through a grass field yesterday and got my rear tires a little dirty!

 

I'm pretty sure that you're the one who mentioned somewhere that the 6637 is only rated for 450 CFM, and also sent me the following info...

In regards to the AIS (this was in a discussion of the TYMAR filter element compared to the AIS): "I did some digging for that data that you were looking for and came across where the new AIS was tested against the element used in the Tymar intake setup. I guess you could say that it was sort of a "Flow Bench Shoot Out". Anyway, the data stopped at 650 cfm so I would have to extrapolate 50 cfm worth of flow data to ball park the AIS restriction at 16"H20 @ 700 CFM (Not Bad ). Incidentally, the Tymar element was yielding 16"H20 clear back at 500 cfm."

Also this link is good reading for general info on filters...
http://www.duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm

 

i work on a government test facility and i run the 6637 with no problems. you want to talk about dirt ingestion? drive behind an M-1 Abrahms on a dirt road and then tell me if you have a good intake filtration system

 

And what filter is on that Abrams in front of you?

 

it happens to have a self cleaning air intake system designed for the severe abuse they run into seeing as how turbines dont like dirt. as it sees any build up it actually burps back through the intake blowing the dirt out

 

Which happens to be made of Donaldson's powercore filter media, the same media used in Ford's AIS.

 

The main issue with the 6637 filter mod is that you are mainly inhaling hot air from the engine compartment which lowers the air density that you are trying to get into the cylinders.
I went with the AIS modification For $198.00 plus UPS that completely replaces the original air intake and drivers side battery holder. Couple this with the ZOODAD mod(cutting an opening in the bulkhead in front of the air intake snorkel) and you are now using cooler outside air with a higher density and have good access to the drivers side battery(unlike the OEM air box) with a filter setup that increases you air flow to the turbo by 35% without sacreficing filtration of the air.

 

As far as I've been able to determine, the WIX 46637 is cross referenced to a Baldwin PA2818, and to a DONALDSON B085011, however, I'm not at all sure if these three elements are of equal quality! The WIX site lists the WIX 46637 with a CFM:425 at the end of the spec list, but does not give any "H20 vs CFM restriction data.

Here's a link to the Donaldson site site...
http://www.donaldson.com/en/catalogs/engine/033621.pdf

... and it gives the following restriction data.

ECB Initial Airflow Restriction
CFM @ "H20 Air Cleaner
..4"......6"......8 "......Model
280....400....470......B085011

On the Donaldson site, the stated application for the (B085011= WIX 46637?) is for gas and diesel engines in light to medium dust conditions. This doesn't sound like a good choice for the dusty conditions I tow in!

Temperature tolerance: 180°F/83°C continuous 220°F/105°C intermittent. Keep away from engine manifold and other very hot components (DuraLite is rated at 180°F/83°C maximum sustained temperature). I know for a fact that my under the hood temps at the fuse box (where my sensor was located) exceed 205 F on occasions, and that's right next to where the filter element is located.

Keep away from battery acids, brake fluid, and other caustic fluids.

Donaldson recommends the use of a high torque hose clamp (up to 150 lbs.-in) for DuraLite air cleaners. This clamp eliminates the need for double clamping. It seems like there's been problems with unfiltered air leaking in at the neck of these filters!

 

Personally, I am in the same boat as calf roper with regards to purchasing an intake, I for one having listened to the friendly debates on this site about filters and prices have come to this conclusion. I personally want the BEST filtration system I can buy to protect the turbo and engine. I love that a filter can be bought for $26-$40 and flows and works well, but I want the BEST. If spending $200+ on a filter gets me the best protection than so be it. Cheap insurance in my book for the protection. I believe that AIS/Donaldson filter does this the best from what I have heard. If these filters are protecting the engines of million dollar tanks in Iraq, than that has got to be saying something.
I am in no way trying to incite another dispute on filters, and value everyones input on their choice of filter, or am I telling you what to buy. If budget is a big factor, than go with the 6637. There is more than enough positive testimony to this filter on this site. I fully trust the fellas input here on this. Personally, I don't mind spending a few more dollars on the AIS if it is the BEST, but only if it IS the best. Which seems to be the way I am leaning. Anyone else besides Gene running the AIS that has any comments? Thanks