New Wire Harness Install Question...

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Aug 25, 2007 | 07:56 AM

e william

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Joined: Mar 2003

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From: S.C.

New Wire Harness Install Question...

What's up....
Getting ready to tackle the harness install on the 54 239...still running generator and will be 12 volt system.
I have an aftermarket harness that has each wire marked for use, old harness filed the trash can nicely as is was useless to me.
Here's the ?, would you use a 1956 wire diagram and change the new harness to suit, or would you wire according to the new harness markings and hope the system doesnt melt...buy sub stock harnesses (headlight crossovers and the like) and tie into the new harness?
I'm leaning toward wiring up using just the new harness markings and working out the generator and regulator when I get to it?
This is my first total rewire..."I aint scared...I aint scared!"
Let me know what ya think, Ed

Aug 25, 2007 | 08:01 AM

Renegade-Diesel

Junior User

Joined: Aug 2007

Posts: 67

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From: Spring Grove, PA

ToTo, you ain't in Kansas, anymore. You bought the harness to make your job easier, each wire is marked, if you start changing the program you is gonna be followin the worong color brick road. You fer sure want to go with the wiring harness plan. Each end will wind up where it should. Any problems in the future (we never have any) will be easier to fix. If youwanted to keep having problems, dig in the trash and send back for a refund. Later

Aug 25, 2007 | 08:02 AM

Christopher2

Fleet Mechanic

Joined: Jun 2004

Posts: 1,789

Likes: 47

From: Minnesota

I would wire up everything else using the directions that came with the new harness and do the generator last. The truck should run without the generator, using a battery with a full charge. That will give you some confidence to to tackle the generator which is not as bad as you think.

Quote:

Originally Posted by e william

Aug 25, 2007 | 08:55 AM

stewards68

Senior User

Joined: Oct 2006

Posts: 299

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From: Topeka, KS

I used an EZwire kit, and followed the new directions. Mine had a few modifications, and I referred back to the old diagrams just to make myself feel better. I had a few worries, and had to modify a couple of things. If you go slow and take your time, the new directions will work great. If you have questions, post 'em up, folks here will help you out.

Aug 25, 2007 | 11:30 AM

bobbytnm

Roast em' if you got 'em

Joined: Mar 2005

Posts: 22,038

Likes: 10,030

From: Rio Rancho, NM

I agree with whats been said already, follow the new directions. I used the EZ Wiring harness and it took care of everything.

Before you make anyt cuts or terminations on the new harness I would get it all laid out and routed like you want. I ended up installing my harness 2 1/2 times as I made changes and rerouted things to hide it better. Get it all laid out, then start securing it and making the terminations

Good luck with it, its a whole lot easier than you think
Bobby

Aug 25, 2007 | 03:53 PM

Truxx1956

Posting Guru

Joined: Jul 2007

Posts: 2,344

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From: I live in Leitchfield, KY

Also.....

You might want to think about dumping that old generator, to have a good solid 12V goin to everything.I don't know what your thinkin is about keepin that old thing, but if you're updating to 12V you might as well update to an alternator!! You could even use a 1 wire setup? keeps everything clean, and supplies a consistant voltage to everything.I know that's just my 2 cents worth, but it makes alot of difference to have consistant voltage, it can eleminate alot of problems in the future.I also agree with the other cat who said to lay it all out, in the truck and get a good idea where it goes so you can make it look as neat as possible.I do alot of rewire jobs, and it is a shame what passes for a good job in these parts!! Now is the time to correct alot of future problems??

Later

Aug 25, 2007 | 07:52 PM

e william

Thread Starter

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Joined: Mar 2003

Posts: 929

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From: S.C.

Thanks for the responces...everybody is saying what I have been thinking.
pros...
12v Alt. is clean and up to date with wire harness
can be replaced upon failure easily
gives constant power and has built in regulator
engine bay (fenders) are cleaned up.
cons...
cost of new 12v alt. (I have two generators now)
finding brackets to fit alt for my stock 239 v8 (more cost)
power steer pump is custom mounted off the gen. bracket...would need
changing (see gallery pic)
hydrolic hoses based off pump location might need changing ($$)

I do know that I want to try to do this one time correctly so that it lasts long and serves well. I also dont want to push the finnish line back due to waiting on budget to allow for costs...
SO, does anyone know of a good alt bracket setup to fit my motor or am I gonna have to fill up the "cold drink" fridge in my garage and use my imagination?...again!
Oh I hate that I love this truck so much!!!
later, Ed

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Aug 25, 2007 | 08:31 PM

AXracer

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Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 15,882

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From: Durham NC

The generator wiring will be a few short wires in addition to the wires in the harness, so it would not mean starting over if you decide to go with the alternator later. Don't bother with a stock wiring diagram, it would be for a 6V pos ground system without any fuse block at all so of no real value. Same thing with the headlight connectors, altho mine came with new headlight connectors, it would be no real big deal to substitute the sockets that fit your choice of headkights. If the kit you have has more circuits than you plan to use in the near future, remove those wires from the fuse panel to simplify the project. Don't just cut them off, pull the unneeded fuse and look carefully at the connector the wire attaches to in the fuse block (you may need some magnification and a strong light to see in there, but all connectors slip into the block from behind and have a spring keeper that locks then in place after inserting. You can release the connector by carefully inserting a straightened paper clip wire or a very small screwdriver to push back the keeper. Once you have removed the wire and any others you won't be using coil them up, put them in a plastic bag and save for future use. You only need to remove the connector that has the wire attached, the one for the other blade on the fuse can remain in the block.