Radius arm bushings
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Radius arm bushings
So, I finally decided to change the radius arm bushings on my 90 FSB. Not as easy as I had hoped. As I was grinding, banging, heating, cursing at, the rivets off the radius arm brackets, 5 pounds of rust fell off the truck. My brackets are shot, rusted through in some spots. So I purchased new brackets made by MOOG. I also bought new bushings made by MOOG. My question is this: the new bushings came 2 large and 2 small with 2 spacers and 4 end caps. In what order do they go on? It also looks as though there is some play when inserting the end of the bushings into the hole in the bracket. This is only when test fitting, I have not put them on and tightened them yet. Any advice would be appreciated. Also, some body mentioned to me about using a lubricant on poly bushings. Any thoughts? MOOG Bushings are part# MOG K80007. Thanks
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From: shawnee KS
The moogs I have always bought have had directions with a pic. I have 4 trucks with them so I have done them a couple times...... Stop by where you got them and ask to look in another box for the directions. Although I remember thinking the last time I did those that the directions didn't look right to me. Part of the reason I wanted to read this thread actually.
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I ended up going back to the auto store and looking through the MOOG catalog. The proper order is: (Working from the front of the truck back) cup shaped washer, large bushing, bracket, spacer, small bushing, washer, nut
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I ended up going back to the auto store and looking through the MOOG catalog. The proper order is (working from the fron back) cup shaped front retainer, large bushing, bracket, spacer, small bushing, washer, nut.
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From: Spokane, Wa.
I have a question along these lines.....one manual I looked at said something to effect of ' Don't start this without a 350ft/lb torque wrench ' Is this only if you're removing the axle ?? The Haynes I have didn't make it look all that difficult. Also, the sets I'm seeing at Autozone range from rubber with a 3mo warrenty for around $7.00 to a lifetime poly set marked for 4x4 use in the mid $20's Am I looking at the right items ?
Thanks !
-Scott in Spokane
Thanks !
-Scott in Spokane
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Chicagoland
Originally Posted by toolman
I have a question along these lines.....one manual I looked at said something to effect of ' Don't start this without a 350ft/lb torque wrench ' Is this only if you're removing the axle ?? The Haynes I have didn't make it look all that difficult. Also, the sets I'm seeing at Autozone range from rubber with a 3mo warrenty for around $7.00 to a lifetime poly set marked for 4x4 use in the mid $20's Am I looking at the right items ?
Thanks !
-Scott in Spokane
Thanks !
-Scott in Spokane
Some prefer the poly; some prefer the rubber. I think for this application the rubber is better since you really do want some give there.
It's not a complicated job. It's only five fasteners, really. The catch is that one is the great big nut on the end of the radius arm that on mine took 10 minutes worth of MAPP torch and 2000 ft/lbs to break loose and the other four are heavy, solid rivits.
Calvin
Last edited by mprice; Sep 18, 2007 at 11:58 AM.
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When tightening the nut on the rear of the radius arm...should it bottom out? I had a hard time determining when it was tight enough. The service manual gives an 80-100 ft-lb torque but I couldn't tell when I had it that tight. So about how much of the arm threads should be sticking out past the nut?
TIA
TIA
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