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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 07:24 PM
  #91  
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mrwake
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What do yall think about the set up I want. I have some hedman headers (Long) that are thermal coated and I want to get them installed running true duals somewhere out the back to 1 1/2 pipes. How much will this install cost me? Do yall think I will burn valves? Where should I run the pipes?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 08:14 PM
  #92  
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Talyn
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From: Ashland City, TN
My mistake on the mandrel benders.

The place i go does have one though.

As for them costing 100k, uhhh.. maybe not.

Muffler mans are picky, but have good warrenty. I know the owner of the one i go to. so he cuts me a deal, and i get good work.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 10:03 PM
  #93  
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Mr. M
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From: Redmond, WA
Originally Posted by mrwake
What do yall think about the set up I want. I have some hedman headers (Long) that are thermal coated and I want to get them installed running true duals somewhere out the back to 1 1/2 pipes. How much will this install cost me? Do yall think I will burn valves? Where should I run the pipes?
I doubt duals would be worth the trouble and most likely will be a reduction in torque compared to a single setup.

If you want the duals for look, set up a sinlge intlet dual outlet downstreatm of a 2.5" Y pipe.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2007 | 10:26 PM
  #94  
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ss150
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If you are asking them to set up your headers from the block back... be prepared to take it in the pooper!
I was planning on taking the truck there with the headers already on, and having them make up the y-pipe and weld in the cat and muffler. I was thinking maybe some Flowtech headers going into a 2.5" y-pipe with a 2.5" high flow cat and a 2.5" flowmaster muffler, and exit out right in front of the passenger rear wheel with a 3"-3.5" chrome tip.

Is this sizing okay? I'm wanting optimal sizing for gaining power without losing torque. Also, what is a good, cost effective highflow cat to go with?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 07:05 AM
  #95  
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flareside_thunder
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From: Florida
Depending on the other goodies you've got...might even be able to go with 3 inch..if you're gonna single the exhaust........
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 10:17 AM
  #96  
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351slug
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From: Poquoson Va.
flareside_thunder, can you explain more in detail about your exhaust theory.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 10:56 AM
  #97  
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Mr. M
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From: Redmond, WA
Originally Posted by ss150
I was planning on taking the truck there with the headers already on, and having them make up the y-pipe and weld in the cat and muffler. I was thinking maybe some Flowtech headers going into a 2.5" y-pipe with a 2.5" high flow cat and a 2.5" flowmaster muffler, and exit out right in front of the passenger rear wheel with a 3"-3.5" chrome tip.

Is this sizing okay? I'm wanting optimal sizing for gaining power without losing torque. Also, what is a good, cost effective highflow cat to go with?
That would be a good combination. MagnaFlow and Bassani make good hi-flow cats.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 12:26 PM
  #98  
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IHguy
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O2 sensor problems with long tubes?

Long post please bear with me.

I need to replace my exhaust on my 94 f150 5.8. The down pipe flanges and manifold studs are rusted to non-existance. To replace the flanges I would have to cut the pipes, install new flanges and reweld the pipes back together. The manifold studs look like a whole bunch of troubles to replace.

So my options are:

1) Fix using existing parts.

2) Fix flanges, and install a set of pacesetter shorty headers that I had bought and never installed for my '92 F150 5.0 (would need to modify for the 5.8 EGR tube).

3) Buy longtubes and have custom exhaust work done.

I wouldn't mind having a some power increase as a byproduct of this project. I have read in my searching that shorties don't give any increase in performance. Long tubes would take additional money and time. Also, I had a friend with long tubes on his mustang and he kept having problems with his O2 going bad (maybe exhaust too cold?) until he swapped them for the shorties.

Opinions?
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 01:13 PM
  #99  
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fast83
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if you have the money replace the whole exhaust with a long tube set up.......

as for the other guy we need more info on your ride to tell you if that exhaust thought would help or hinder you on performance
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 01:52 PM
  #100  
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Mr. M
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From: Redmond, WA
Originally Posted by IHguy

I need to replace my exhaust on my 94 f150 5.8. The down pipe flanges and manifold studs are rusted to non-existance. The manifold studs look like a whole bunch of troubles to replace.
Hit the studs with a heavy dose of PB blaster 48 and 24 hours prior to working on the vehicle.


Originally Posted by IHguy
I have read in my searching that shorties don't give any increase in performance. Long tubes would take additional money and time. Also, I had a friend with long tubes on his mustang and he kept having problems with his O2 going bad (maybe exhaust too cold?) until he swapped them for the shorties.
It won't take you anymore time to swap in the long tubes, assuming your stock manifolds have kicked the can. I wouldn't waste any time or money on the shorties. Sell them on craigslist or ebay.

These long tubes were not set up properly in the mustang. I bet the o2 sensors were too far downstream or he was having other induction issues that the long tubes magnified... just a hunch. It is imperative the o2 sensors are the same distance from the cylinder head as before. A good exhaust shop will weld in the o2 bungs and EGR pipe in the correct location. You will not have any of these issues with your truck and long tubes. Just a big fat grin with the extra power punch!

Good Luck
Mike
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 02:27 PM
  #101  
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351slug
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From: Poquoson Va.
I see Ford Motorsports make stainless shortys, Why dont they make full length longtubes if they make more tourqe and Hp. I think GM offers the same for cars like the GTO,Vette, etc. Maybe its a direct replacement thing.
 
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Old Aug 31, 2007 | 06:20 PM
  #102  
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eco
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From: The dark carnival
Originally Posted by Talyn
My mistake on the mandrel benders.

The place i go does have one though.

As for them costing 100k, uhhh.. maybe not.
About 40k new for the bottom of the line economy ones. Step up to a real mandrel bender and they will easily get into the 100k range. Either way, too much money and too much set up time for the majority of the muffler shops out there. To change the set up of the bender from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 we are talking about an hours worth of time.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2007 | 01:42 PM
  #103  
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IHguy
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Thanks, I am going to go with the longtubes.


Originally Posted by Mr. M
Hit the studs with a heavy dose of PB blaster 48 and 24 hours prior to working on the vehicle.



It won't take you anymore time to swap in the long tubes, assuming your stock manifolds have kicked the can. I wouldn't waste any time or money on the shorties. Sell them on craigslist or ebay.

These long tubes were not set up properly in the mustang. I bet the o2 sensors were too far downstream or he was having other induction issues that the long tubes magnified... just a hunch. It is imperative the o2 sensors are the same distance from the cylinder head as before. A good exhaust shop will weld in the o2 bungs and EGR pipe in the correct location. You will not have any of these issues with your truck and long tubes. Just a big fat grin with the extra power punch!

Good Luck
Mike
 
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