i have searched everywhere for the design you posted a pic of and they are only for jeeps, all the ones for my truck are like the link i posted in my first post

 

Joe, I use these guys for all my chassis builds, they have a lot of stuff but not sure if they have something for you. If you can weld, they usually have what you need.

http://www.competitionengineering.com/default.asp

 

they are mostly race car oriented, but i had checked them before, nothing for big trucks....i guess my question is are the procomps going to work or do i need to keep looking for a different design?

 

More than likely they will work. However, they have a better chance of working well on a truck with stock springs. The taller and the softer the springs are the more chance there is of still having some degree of spring wrap.....how much, if any, is anyone's guess.

The idea is to capture the diff so it cannot rotate. When a traction bar has only one attachment point at the bottom of the axle tube, then the bottom of the tube cannot move. But, if the springs are tall enough and/or soft enough to deflect they can allow the top of the diff tube to move slightly. Basically, the single attachment point traction bar can theoretically still allow the diff housing to rotate around that single attachment point.

If there are two attachment points on the axle tube, then there can be no rotation. Unfortunately, if you have two traction bars with two attachment points each they can tend to limit suspension travel and articulation......if the springs are soft enough for that to be an issue on a heavy duty truck. That's why in the offroad world we use a single traction bar with two attachment points on the axle and a single articulating attachment point at the frame side........allowing for full suspension travel.

 

check these out.

http://www.landlproducts.com/list.aspx?cID=5

 

here, this gives you an idea how much it moves, you can see the mark in the tailpipe where it hits and pushes the pipe down

 

Thinking out loud, If you use a single point bar, attaced to the lower part of the axle, The front mount of the spring cant move ,so in theory, it becomes a three point,& allows the axle to move verticaly without twisting..Clamp a ladder bar on the axle,& the clamp would have to slip as the axle moves up and down..Maybe that is how they are designed?....

Actually, after thinking about it some more, the ladder bar ,with the loop clamp appears to do nothing more the a single would do, other than maybe being stronger,If the clamp does slip the axle will still roll....As I said ...just thinking out loud.....

 

thats why i am thinking on getting these now, plus the tuff country wont hurt my ground clearence like the pro comps will
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...009351/c-10614

 

That would limit the movement to what ever give there is in the bushings.....


Check this out...

 

read his whole article he said he has to always adjust them for driving or towing and that there is only enough play for daily driving in that set-up

 

You're getting quite a bit of speing wrap.......must feel nice.

For some reason, the front half of the spring pack does most of the deflecting/moving as the suspension cycles, which makes it hard to run a hard traction bar on a rig with good travel. The bars would need to be pretty long and close to level so the bars don't fight the spring deflection. Those Tuff Country bars would probably work if they're mounted real close to level, but they will twist the axle and spring a little if the travel is very much........but it could be unnoticeable. The springs on these trucks are stiff enough that I'm sure any of us just get a few inches of travel in both directions, so if a traction bar is level enough or long enough it should work.

Or, get out the welder and build one of the single articulating ones, they're not hard, and a couple of places sell the plates for the axle mounts ready made.

 

i dont have stock springs, i have a ton of travel and can get ridiculous articulation, if i get the 4 wheel drive working tonite i will take a good pic for you guys. i need to get rid of the first gear wrap, its going to break stuff, but i want to keep my flexibility.

 

They're not hard to build. Here's an old pic of my setup, it has a different rear end now (HP60), but it's basically the same. My front mount is super simple, just two heim joints, but it allows enough movement for the suspension not to bind, and I have a ton of articulation. I used 3/4" heims, which likely wouldn't be strong enough for the PSD, but 7/8" or 1" would easily be strong enough.

 

here, i took some pics today, granted its only 2 wheel drive, but it still climbed pretty far




bigger pics in the webshots albums

 

nice truck coon!

gotta love that frame flex!

is that with a ladder bar setup?

-cutts-