Battery light gone haywire!
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Central California
Battery light gone haywire!
I first noticed this after I filled up my rear tank (which, prior to today, had never been full while I owned the truck). The battery light came on, and it has taken on a mind of its own. It will stay on for a while, then flicker, then go out, and come back on. It was steadily on for most of my drive home. It likes to come on when I'm decelerating or have the clutch released. Some coolant might have gotten into the alternator when the radiator puked (over two weeks ago, now), but I can't see why it would be acting that way now. The gauge, for whatever it's worth, stays no further than just right of the middle, and the truck seems to be operating normally. At this point it's more annoying than anything else.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Central PA
when light is on . have someone watch light while you wiggle wires on alt. My 92 had one small wire that end connector would go bad. About $6 at a rebuild shop. Hope it helps but you setup may be different. I found out when I went to rebuild shop to get checked. He did even look at alt just touched the wire and bingo. Later
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From: Central California
Update: I cleaned off the battery terminals (quite nasty), checked the alternator wire connections (good), checked the drive-belt (maybe a little loose, but still serviceable), and took a multimeter to the battery (takes a while, but is getting charged). The light stayed on. Then, when the fuel gauge bobbed back to 3/4, the light went out and stayed out! The truck is still a little hard to start, and I haven't tried the test light yet (which, I believe, is just a 12-volt bulb with alligator clips spliced on each end). I haven't ruled out a short or a dying alternator, but until I get the test light on there, I'm treating it as a weird, annoying glitch.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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When the red light is on put a volt meter across battery terminals and note voltage. Turn motor off and read voltage across terminals. With engine off a good battery should read around 12.5 volts. With engine running if alt. is good the reading should be higher than 12.5. If it is not you probably need a new set of brushes in the alt.
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From: Central California
Update Number two: I rigged up a test light today and tried it. But before I did, the cable touched the terminal, and it sparked! So I know I have/had a short. The bad fuse was Number 8, which, as per the label on the fuse-box cover, controls the following:
Courtesy and glovebox lights (which I don't believe I have)
Radio (works great)
Dome light (works)
Warning buzzer (what, exactly, this means I don't know, but I've never heard one since I've had the truck)
Cargo light (doesn't work)
This led me to think one of those last two is to blame--and then the battery light went out and remained out for the drive home! So it's still more annoying than anything else. But being that I'm far from an electrical wizard, I'm looking for some help with this one...
Courtesy and glovebox lights (which I don't believe I have)
Radio (works great)
Dome light (works)
Warning buzzer (what, exactly, this means I don't know, but I've never heard one since I've had the truck)
Cargo light (doesn't work)
This led me to think one of those last two is to blame--and then the battery light went out and remained out for the drive home! So it's still more annoying than anything else. But being that I'm far from an electrical wizard, I'm looking for some help with this one...
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 843
Likes: 1
From: Redmond, WA
Originally Posted by Navy Jet Mech
Update Number two: I rigged up a test light today and tried it. But before I did, the cable touched the terminal, and it sparked! So I know I have/had a short. The bad fuse was Number 8, which, as per the label on the fuse-box cover, controls the following:
Courtesy and glovebox lights (which I don't believe I have)
Radio (works great)
Dome light (works)
Warning buzzer (what, exactly, this means I don't know, but I've never heard one since I've had the truck)
Cargo light (doesn't work)
This led me to think one of those last two is to blame--and then the battery light went out and remained out for the drive home! So it's still more annoying than anything else. But being that I'm far from an electrical wizard, I'm looking for some help with this one...
Courtesy and glovebox lights (which I don't believe I have)
Radio (works great)
Dome light (works)
Warning buzzer (what, exactly, this means I don't know, but I've never heard one since I've had the truck)
Cargo light (doesn't work)
This led me to think one of those last two is to blame--and then the battery light went out and remained out for the drive home! So it's still more annoying than anything else. But being that I'm far from an electrical wizard, I'm looking for some help with this one...
Good luck with the old beast!
Mike
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From: Central California
Originally Posted by Mr. M
If it ain't one thing it's another with your rig NAVY!
Better yet, I figured it was either the alternator (should be easy to remove, but would cost money--and of course, the little booger takes the most expensive one!) or a short (potentially cheap, but a pain to hunt down). Either way I was up **** creek without a paddle.
Small price to pay, I guess, considering how much I love that truck!
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Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 843
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From: Redmond, WA
Originally Posted by Navy Jet Mech
Ain't it that way with everything?
Better yet, I figured it was either the alternator (should be easy to remove, but would cost money--and of course, the little booger takes the most expensive one!) or a short (potentially cheap, but a pain to hunt down). Either way I was up **** creek without a paddle.
Small price to pay, I guess, considering how much I love that truck!
Better yet, I figured it was either the alternator (should be easy to remove, but would cost money--and of course, the little booger takes the most expensive one!) or a short (potentially cheap, but a pain to hunt down). Either way I was up **** creek without a paddle.
Small price to pay, I guess, considering how much I love that truck!
Mine was $80 cheaper for a 160 amp upgrade than the 95 amp replacement from any parts place.
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