will do, don't know when i'll get to it but it will have to be soon because it just horrible tryin to get anywhere in it

 

yeah i am getting tired of driving it as is.

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=25

this site seems to have good information. i have found the stator at napa but i cannot find a replacement TFI. anybody know where to get a new one?

 

http://www.tfisettlement.ca/TFI/claim.asp

i also found this!

 

Even if the stator (PIP) sensor is causing your problem replacing it may not fix the problem. If the bushings are wore in the distributor it may still give the same problem.
This is why most just replace the distributor when they have a problem with the PIP train as a new distributor comes with a new stator and TFI Module.

 

well i went into napa today and they dont have a distributor in alaska but they could get one from seattle. it is cheaper to buy a reman distributor than it is to buy the stator and tfi module. the salesman also asked me if my distributor had a steel or cast iron gear. how do i know which one i have?

 

It depends on your cam, the difference is for the type of material the gear on the cam is made out of.
If it is stock you should have a non-roller cam/lifters (flat lifters) so you would need the cast iron gear.
If you have a roller cam/lifters then you would need a steel gear.

 

ok this will prolly be a long one

i checked my fuel pressure today in class like someone here and my teacher suggested, it checked out fine.also tried to ohm the stator in the dist. and the reading was ridiculous, like 220Kohms. come to find out that tells you nothing about a Hall Effect sensor like the PIP in our distributors.i was just reading on the autozone site and seen the procedure to test it and evidently it was wrong.the only way to really test it according to my teacher is to use an oscilloscope(sp?).well we hooked one to it and everything was perfect, it was a testbook result,every 7 lines there would be a skinny one for the #1 cylinder.could not get nothin to show up so i mentioned to the teacher that it gets real bad when a load id on the motor like takin off.well this is where it gets better.

he unplugs the MAP sensor and tells me to drive it around the lot,it was like night and day, couldn't make it miss at all,even crawled it up a hill in 2nd and it bogged but didn't miss.Also idk if ya'lls trucks did this but every since i got mine the RPMs have been weird,when you rev it up they would linger for a bit before comin back down,i hated it and when he unplugged the MAP sensor it stopped that.well anyways we did some tests on the MAP sensor to confirm it and the tests results were a little off from the spec, checked vacuum on the truck and it was good so im guessing the MAP has been a problem for awhile, i always thought it was used one on it cause it had a number on it like from a junkyard.new one from autozone is $52.99, we always use a local parts store cause dad has a charge account there so its easier, well they wanted $99 for a Borg-Warner one and $153 for Motorcraft.well i don't have that kinda cash so imma switch mine with one on a lincoln mark V we got here and see if it fixes it.i left it unplugged on the way home and it run fine till it warmed up and then it would still do it a little but only if you crowded it, if you just drove it normal it was fine and it smelled like it was runnin rich so i guess the MAP being unplugged was messin with the settings.anyways i'll swap them tonite and let ya know how it does

 

i wonder if my MAP is also bad. last night when i got home i pulled my distributor and i have a cast iron gear. this morning i went to schucks auto and bought a reman distributor for $98 and put that in there. i had everything lined up to the tee and she started like a champ but then once the choke cut off it started running worse than ever. it is missing really bad and at idle it seems like it has a huge cam in it and then i tried to drive it around the block and it would stay running. i adjusted the timing and i was able to drive it down the street but it is misfiring so bad that i couldn't get over 20mph. when i rev on it while parked it seems like not all the cylinders are firing until high rpms. when i punch it driving it sounds like some of the cylinders are fine and then a few sound like the engine is stalling out. i am getting really frustrated with it. anybody have any more input for me. thanks

 

Did you fix the charging problem?
You might recheck that firing order also.
Open the hood at night and see if you can see any spark jumping.

As for how to check the fuel pressure you put a gauge on the fuel manifold, turn on the key and ground Pin #6 (short pin #2 to Pin#6) of the VIP test connector (Data Link Connector) and read the gauge. This is on a cold engine not running.
Remove the ground and watch how fast the gauge drops, If it drops fast you have a bad check valve in your frame pump or bad FPR.

 

yea i know im gettin frustrated too.i tried 2 other MAP sensors we had on stuff here and one was just as bad as the one that was on it but the one off our bronco seemed like it was a little better but i don't tink i gave it time to get warm.when i took the first one i put on off it was pretty hot even after sittin for about an hour.it still runs better with ir unplugged so i guess ima leave it unplugged for awhile till i get the money for a new one then i'll prolly wrap it in some exhaust wrap or some kinda shield to see if that helps it any.imma try and pull the codes on it tom. too just to see if maybe im missin somethin.

 

well here is an update. today i had a buddy bring over his timing light again and the timing is right on but something told me to check the wires. somehow in the distributor swap i crossed wire 7 and 8. after switching them to the correct positions it ran a whole lot better but i am still getting a slight spudder at low rpms. what should be my next check be?

 

oh and i forgot to mention that my battery light has not come on since the distributor swap.

 

It sounds to me like a possible vaccum leak at low speed it misses and once you get going it seems to go away. Have you checked the intake manifold/plenum for vacum leaks? Just a thought.. Good luck!

 

just thought i would leave an update, a few months late haha. i finally got it fixed about a month or so ago, turned out to be.......plugwires. they were the first thing i checked when this started but i just checked them for burns and stuff, didn't think about them bein broken down. when i ohmed them they were way screwed up.never woulda done it if i hadn't been messin with the truck in class and my cheap rotor button seized up, which led to me crosswiring my truck tryin to get it together to drive home, which made me buy all new good ignition parts which then fixed it.im glad its fixed though cause it was gettin so bad it didn't wanna idle.