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Old Aug 21, 2007 | 08:02 AM
  #16  
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That's one thing about alternator systems. Everything has to be good or the one bad component will sometimes take the rest of the pieces with it. Now that you have all new everywhere it will last for a long time.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 12:14 PM
  #17  
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If an alternate goes out, can it actually damage the batteries? Or just drain them and require a recharge?

My truck sat for about 2 weeks. Tried to start it yesterday and got clicking. Pulled key, reinserted and tried again, started up no issue. Drove around for 15 minutes, stopped and restarted the truck a number of times with no issue. Came back a few hours later, and when I tried to start it, not only did I hear clicking initially, but then all power lost...no dashlights, unable to lock/unlock doors via switch...nothing.

These batteries were replaced last year...both batteries.

How exactly do I perform the alternator test? Test voltage or batteries while connected but ignition in off state? Then voltage after engine is running at idle?

Also, when removing the alternator, you say three bolts, but is there a tensioner on the belt that also needs to be dealt with?

Thanks,
Rob
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 12:50 PM
  #18  
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
Originally Posted by rljett
If an alternate goes out, can it actually damage the batteries? Or just drain them and require a recharge?

My truck sat for about 2 weeks. Tried to start it yesterday and got clicking. Pulled key, reinserted and tried again, started up no issue. Drove around for 15 minutes, stopped and restarted the truck a number of times with no issue. Came back a few hours later, and when I tried to start it, not only did I hear clicking initially, but then all power lost...no dashlights, unable to lock/unlock doors via switch...nothing.

These batteries were replaced last year...both batteries.

How exactly do I perform the alternator test? Test voltage or batteries while connected but ignition in off state? Then voltage after engine is running at idle?

Also, when removing the alternator, you say three bolts, but is there a tensioner on the belt that also needs to be dealt with?

Thanks,
Rob
I think I would check the battery cells with a hydrometer.. you can get one from napa for about $20.. You can also have the battery check electrically for cranking amps.. most auto part stores will check them free..
As far the belt tensioner..Just use a 1/2" socket wrench..breaker bar works the best and insert the 1/2" portion into the square recess hole on the tensioner and pull to release the pressure off the belt..
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 12:56 PM
  #19  
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I would first of all clean all your terminals and make sure they are tight.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 01:50 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by rljett
If an alternate goes out, can it actually damage the batteries? .....................Tried to start it yesterday and got clicking. Pulled key, reinserted and tried again, started up no issue.................stopped and restarted the truck a number of times with no issue. Came back a few hours later, ...........then all power lost...no dashlights, unable to lock/unlock doors via switch...nothing.......These batteries were replaced last year...both batteries.
Thanks,
Rob
Most of the time the alt. stops charging the batteries and suppling voltage for all the electrical stuff on our trucks thus requiring the batteries to supply the power. This will draw down a batteries quick and will leave you stranded. If the regulator messes up, I guess it could hurt the batteries. Everytime I have run batteries completly dead, it seems to really shorten their life.
Usually you will get a battery light on your dash when the alt. stops charging. Have you noticed the battery light being on when engine is running? Are you still not starting? Sounds more like a bad connection somewhere. Weak batteries will usually not start one second then start good the next. A bad cell in one of your batteries will do that.
Check battery voltage will cranking. Check at the batteries, should not fall below 10.5 volts. Check alt. voltage while running, should be 13v+.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 01:58 PM
  #21  
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rljett
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From: Woodstock, GA
Thanks all. Will check battery connections this evening, along with fuses. Then I'll try to jump start it...knowing it will take a while if possible at all. If I can get it started, I'll try the voltage check form alternator.

The only thing I can think of for working one minute and not next is th GPR. It was probably running the first time, drained the battery. And the second time I tried to start it, the GPR did not activate and gave me some more juice to get started.

As of last night, everything was dead. Not a single electrical device was working that you can see from the cab. And I did not have any time to play with it.

I was not getting any warning lights up to this point nor yesterday between the first starting issue and 5 hours later when it would not start at all.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 02:09 PM
  #22  
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zx250
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From: Concord NC
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Is you wait to start light doing its thing? You live in GA, and I don't think its cold enough down there to need you glow plugs, and that want cause clicking.
If everything is dead, including cab lights, dingers, ect, I'm betting you got a bad connection, even bad batteries will make a dome light glow. Hook up some jumper cables or a battery charger to the batteries and see if still have no power. If not, the start tracing and clean connections.
 
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