..for the brown truck to deliver some of things that we need for our PMS fix.

All of our Sponsors are great, and I appreciate, and support them for most PMS stuff.

Sometimes though the opportunity to wrench just comes about. You know your sittin at home on Thursday afternoon and the wife/GF/ whoever, comes in and says " I'm going with/to anywhere on Sat. so you can do what you want all day." Bingo you think, If I had ordered this or that from (fill in favorite diesel mod dealer) then I could put that in on Sat....DOH... Well here are a couple of things that you can pick up locally (your market may vary).

1. AIH delete plug with boost tap.
the plug is a 22MM X 1/2 thread, it can be drilled (with the R drill bit that was left from your pyro install) and tapped (with the 1/8" NPT tap that came from same install) the 1/8" NPT male compression fitting can be found at most auto parts stores. A little teflon tape, or thread locker and your done. Remember though the 22mm plug needs either a copper crush washer or a rubber/ synthetic washer to seal against the intake spyder.
total cost for the above (here in AL) Plug was $6 at Autozoo(came with washer) 1/8NPT fitting $1.29 at hardware store(Home Depot)


2. Under hood mechanical fuel pressure guage

The fitting for the rear of the fuel bowl is male SAE 20 o-ring to Fm 1/8 NPT. You can find this at a hydraulics store that sells Parker fittings. About $2 to $3. While you are there you can pick up a 100PSI oil filled guage for about $8 to $10,( you can also get one from a bigbox auto parts store, it just costs a little more) and a 12 to 16 inch 1/8th NPT Male to Female hose for $5 to $7. This mod you will need some thread locker for, don't use teflon tape on the fuel system due to little pieces that may come off from the threading and clog up an injector nozzle. A bracket to hold the guage off the alternator can be fashioned from whatever strap metal you may have laying around. use the same R drill bit and the 1/8NPT tap to mount the guage to the bracket you fashion.
total cost about $20


3. Adjustable Map Fooler.

Buy 6 feet of 1/4" rubber fuel line (might as well replace the map line so it doesn't get brittle) $3. you need 2, 1/4 NPT to 1/4 barb fittings and some clamps. About $4. An adjustable pressure regulator w/ guage for an air compressor( i got mine at Lowes for $18), and some teflon tape. you will have to use your air compressor at home to set the output pressure for the new regulator. since our engines defuel at 23 to 25 PSI to the map sensor and the new regulator will have a tolerance of + or - 3 to 5 PSI I set mine right under 20PSI. make yourself a bracket( with the same stuff mentioned above) for the regulator that will slide between the MAP sensor and its bracket. Put new hose from intake spyder to input of regulator, and a small (8-10inch) piece from output of regulator to MAP sensor input. clamp all connections and your done.
total cost $25

Once again this thread is not to take sales away from our sponsors, but to answer some of the frequently asked questions. Like, "what size is...."
Have Fun.

 

Nice post.

 

Three perfect do-it-yourself mods that's easy to do and easy on the budget!
Brandon, great write-up! Reputation points awarded!

 

I like the last one!

 

Yep. Great post.

FYI on Early 99 Trucks : You don't have the AIH from item #1.

 

rep points added, how about sticky status please?!

 

Really great Post! Points awarded.......

 

very nice write up.. sounds like some one had saterday to them self..rep points givin..

 

You could add the CCV mod to that list as well.

 

Rep points given and text printed out.

Going to do that fuel pressure gauge.

Thanks, Brandon!

 

Nice write up, dont forget about the hutch and harpoon mods, they can be done with just one trip to the hardware store.

 

Excellent post, Saved that for future. Who knows, I might find a day that I don't have something on the honeydo list and want to do. All that in DIY format for under $70.00. Wow, worth the rep points for sure.

 

Thanks to all for the reps, and kind words.

I purposely didn't add the common DIY stuff, 6637,CCV, Hutch,Harpoon etc.. for the simple fact that those are talked about everyday here on FTE. A newbie coming in can find that info with a search.
I have searched our forum(and others ) for a year now and no one has ever posted the correct size for the AIH delete. Yes, some have said get a oil drain plug for a dodge. True it is a 22mm plug but it is 1.5 inches of thread where the correct one is .5 inches of thread. That is a whole lot more material to drill through and tap. Not to mention the whole reason we do this mod is to remove the airflow restriction in the intake. The fuel bowl fitting gives a lot of people fits. Withpout a spare fuel bowl, or at least the test port plug in hand most folks have no idea what you are trying to accomplish when you go to their counter and ask for help. Diesels are still a mystery to most auto parts guys. Sure, they know that they have a fuel pressure guage for a gasser (whopping 15-20PSI) and it blows their mind when you say you need a 100PSI guage.
Next project (currently under development) is a DIY mechanical wastegate actuator. Have you priced a stock one? $250-$400 depending on which retailer has them. Now, mine won't be pretty like the one on Bob Riellys site with the billet pieces, but it will be functional. Look for a future write up on that with pics.
BD

 

I know of one other thing he's working on and the write-up on it WILL be very interesting, so stay tuned!
As far as the Hutch and Harpoon mods, we plan on doing our trucks together in the VERY near future. Especially, since my ITP kit and Carter P4070 are sitting on my mantle.

 

O.K. I just posted this to another members thread but I thought I might add It Here.


4. DIY EBPV tube.
Go to local auto parts store and get a 3/16 x 36 inch brake line $3, a cheap tube bender $9, and a double roll flare tool $7. cut off one of the preformed flares, and take the two fittings off the new line. take the fittings off old line and put one on new up to the remaining flare(do this now or you won't be able to slide the fitting from one end to the other due to your bends) Yes, those little sleeves that the nut goes over do come off, and must go to the new line. I used a pair of wire cutters turned upside down to slide the bushing down away from the flare. Use your old line as a template and bend the new line (it doesn't have to be perfect, just dont crimp the tube in a bend) put remaining old fitting on new line, cut off excess, and flare tube end. You actually dont have to follow the original line bends perfectly, but try to stay close. you may have to pull and push a little during reinstallation to get the connections to line up, just make sure you don't kink the line.